Not quite. He has just done enough chassis and plumbing work and we both have a taste for clean and functional installs. His SBM is a extremely nice boosted rig as well.Was Theo a plumber in a previous life? .....he sure does a nice job running those big pipes
Forged 370 ls1(6.0 bored 30 over), 10.1 to 1 compression, summit pro ls rods and pistons, summit 8717 camshaft, Arp hardware throughout. Holley terminator x max engine management, aeromltive pro series fuel pump, will have 210 cc injectors. Twin t4 6973 turbos. Built th400 with a trans brake.I’m super excited for your first shake down passes. What are the specs on the motor and turbos?
Forged 370 ls1(6.0 bored 30 over), 10.1 to 1 compression, summit pro ls rods and pistons, summit 8717 camshaft, Arp hardware throughout. Holley terminator x max engine management, aeromltive pro series fuel pump, will have 210 cc injectors. Twin t4 6973 turbos. Built th400 with a trans brake.
Should be good for over that. When I spec'd the motor, turbos, and fuel system I had 1200 or more in mind. But I'm happy with anything over 1000. More than most roads will take anyway. Ill have a low boost, hi boost, and scramble tune on it.Should be good for around 1000HP, right? Do you have a HP goal?
Yessir these are the wheels ill be running on the street with some et streets on them. My drag setup will be some single headlock with another inch of backspace and it will take care of that issue. And now I can get this spare tire well shipped out to you.looks great. I'm sure you will address it, but before your lite up the tires, I would advise to take a second look at the tight clearance of the slicks to the front portion of the rear fender opening. A little extra (social) distancing from the lip might be in order. Those slicks will likely grow way more than a street tire during a burnout or even at speed. Hate to see your pretty ride or a nice pair of tires tore up.
i believe he was referring to the front to back clearance, ie where the arch joins the rocker and the fact that slicks will increase in diameter not width. if you realised that please ignore meYessir these are the wheels ill be running on the street with some et streets on them. My drag setup will be some single headlock with another inch of backspace and it will take care of that issue. And now I can get this spare tire well shipped out to you.
Yes I realized that. Thats why I'm buying the offset wheels to pull them in and give them the room they will need to "grow". On the Rc Comp beadwork set with it setting inward another inch it will tuck in behind the lip on the fender well and allow it to clear without making contact. The 275/60 et streets won't have the issue.i believe he was referring to the front to back clearance, ie where the arch joins the rocker and the fact that slicks will increase in diameter not width. if you realised that please ignore me
neil.
Rustoleum brush on Hammered black paint.Looks great! What paint did you use on the cage?
Rustoleum brush on Hammered black paint.
Used a good nylon bristle brush. No thinner. It was nice and sunny all day and will be the next 3 days so I wanted to get all the lainting done asap so it had plenty of time to dry.That's what I'm using on the cage in my 66 Dart. It's great stuff. How'd you apply it? I thinned it out slightly with acetone and brushed it on with a foam brush and roller, Just wish the brushes lasted longer before disintegrating.
Yes I realized that. Thats why I'm buying the offset wheels to pull them in and give them the room they will need to "grow". On the Rc Comp beadwork set with it setting inward another inch it will tuck in behind the lip on the fender well and allow it to clear without making contact. The 275/60 et streets won't have the issue.
If it doesn't work with the new wheels then I'll run radials that won't have the same growing issue like the slicks. Ill just have to relearn some things for radial suspension setup vice slicks.
Pics are hard to see what is going on... the first 1” of tread is close to the lip yes. The offset is little two far out on the wheels he has 2” of room between the frame rail and inside of tire... his slick tire setup should have more offset on the whee bring it in and inch there is nothing to worry about will bring it inside the lip and there will be plenty of clearance from tire to lip... pretty sure the plan is to run radials on these wheels in pics radials don’t grow.... also moving rearend back any further will take away from why a “a body” works as well as it does in my opinion correct me if I’m wrong but isn’t that why u see 400,000 a body’s at the track with snubbers and ss springs they just plain work beings of wheelbase they are like a damn altered lolwhat am I missing?....can't you add some needed clearance by simply extending the threads on your ladder bar front heim?....you could do the rears heims too, unless the top is angled and cannot be extended.
Simply put, I'm going to be buying a set of beadlocks anyway, and I'd rather use a set of wheels to move the position than the suspension seeing as i already have to buy the wheels. I'd rather not change the suspension any until I have it exactly how its going to be for the track.what am I missing?....can't you add some needed clearance by simply extending the threads on your ladder bar front heim?....you could do the rears heims too, unless the top is angled and cannot be extended.