Red Headed Stepchild-75 Swinger LSX Swap

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So looking at things today, i will most likely be cutting this section of the fenderwell in order to have much better placement of the turbo, and crossover pipe. Hoping to run the exhaust either dumped out of the fender or run it down and back if i can get it to clear the torsion bar.
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Love the build! I was able to get a 3" down pipe to thread through the frame and torsion bar on my turbo build. It's tight, but can be done.
 
Hey Dude
I saw all the hate posts on Facetube. Most of those clowns don't even own classic cars. I like your reasons for the LS move. If it's right for you that's all that matters. I did my Duster over with hot rodded OEM stuff, but that's what worked for me. I like your passion and drive for the project.
Thank you for your service!
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Hey Dude
I saw all the hate posts on Facetube. Most of those clowns don't even own classic cars. I like your reasons for the LS move. If it's right for you that's all that matters. I did my Duster over with hot rodded OEM stuff, but that's what worked for me. I like your passion and drive for the project.
Thank you for your service!
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Thanks alot man, im going to keep it going and keep sharing the pics and info. every time I share something in that page 10-15 people message me or add me and ask for info on it. So there are plenty more thinking it, they're just afraid to say it. I on the other hand, am not. I gotta clear some more room in the tunnel today to get the forward to aft angle right but ither than that i love how it sits.
 
SHE'S SEEN THE LIGHT!!!! For the first time in like 2.5 months.
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drivers side clearance
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Passenger side is a little tighter
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On a side note, the factory 904 cross member fits right under the turbo 400 with a little trimming in the tunnel. Wont take much to fab up a piece to add onto the stock cross member and support the 400 properly. Actually looking at it I could just flip it the other way and fab a spacer that could mount to that bolt and itd be perfect for the two trans mounting holes on the 400.
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After all my measurements of clearance for the oil pan, and not wanting to hack the stock kmember to bits I've decided I'm not going to go with the traditional front sump gto oil pan that I've seen others use to successfully pull of this swap.
Clearance at the front k-member
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Clearance at the center link(without turning the wheels)
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Clearance on the passenger side with the wheels at full lock.
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As you can see, there is only about 3" of clearance in the back when turning the wheels left and right, and 4" in the front in order to keep from hacking up the stock k-member. Another thing to note, with the centerlink being where it is, and at the depth it is, there is just about no chevy product rear sump pan that will work with the stock layout suspension/center link because the oil filters are all right over where the center link is. Unless you have a 3" tall filter to thread on there, it'll hit that center link when turning.


I also don't want to pay $699 for the sikky products style 1 mid sump aluminum oil pan, still having to run a remote filter. But for anyone doing this swap, according to my measurements and the measurements off their site, this would be a purchase off the shelf option that would work for an LS1 swap in an A-body.
LSx Swap Mid Sump Oil Pan | SIKKY

After doing some brainstorming with Dave, along with me being willing to be a test mule of sorts, I plan on getting a steel jegs performance rear sump ls oil pan, cutting it and flipping it around and rewilding it to make it a center sump pan. Placing the sump where it needs to be and making the front and rear of the pan shallow enough to clear the center link and front kmember without modification.
JEGS Performance Products 50228 Street & Strip Engine Swap Oil Pan GM LS Series | eBay

This is the idea behind modifying that steel oil pan to fit.
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I am guessing you just use a different oil pick up with this mod
 
I plan to re-use the stock truck pick up right now. As it normally runs from the front of the motor to the rear sump it is plenty long enough o shorten to the mid sump design, and then it is also used to running the 7.5" depth for the truck pan, so it will be plenty deep enough as well for the mid sump design too.

If not I know sikky sells the fbody pickups for use with their mid-sump pans. So that may be a secondary option if I choose not to go with the truck pickup. But I could probably find one of those pickups for next to nothing, rather than paying them $40 or $50 for one of their fbody ones.
 
Well I the only update i have right now is i got the vband flanges welded back onto the headers after shortening them. Decided on a type of gusset I'm going to add to the passenger side mitor mount just to be sure theres never any issues. Still shopping for more parts here local to save some money

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Well I've slowly been making progress son the swap due to some back issues but it also gave me time to contemplate color scheme seeing as is rsther not do this swap and just throw dirty old dusty stock parts on thete i decided to clean things up a little. These are by no mean professional grade seeing as i sont have access to a sand blaster and did all the sanding/smoothing by hand to get rid of all the factory rough edges and imperfections. But it looks alot better than before and i think will look great inside the bay once it's all finished up. I didn't think any more red was needed in there other than maybe some small accents like the blow off valve or wastegate. The block will be painted black as well and the timing cover silver.

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Haven't checked on you in a while glad to see the amount of progress you have done.
Thanks a lot. With the holidays and everything coming up and a lot of travel for work, the most I hope to accomplish by Christmas is get the motor pulled back out, prep and paint it, prep and paint the engine bay, and get the new oil pan ordered/cut/rewelded and bolted back on and then have it all test fitted in there prior to new years. But a vast chunk of the work will happen after the new year, hoping to get it all buttoned back up and running by next Summer. Fingers crossed.
 
Just updating guys, the project hasn't stalled. Just waiting on parts and pieces to show up and ill be pulling the motor back out this weekend, and I'm going to be welding up some of the demolition in the tunnel, sanding, prepping, painting the engine bay/engine accessory brackets and cleaning all the kmember and stuff up too. My back is feeling better so I'm more mobile now.
 
I always like looking at this thread because I love innovation. Just curious....does the heat from the exhaust / headers with them upside down close to the hood instead of down near the frame rails concern you?

Denny
 
I always like looking at this thread because I love innovation. Just curious....does the heat from the exhaust / headers with them upside down close to the hood instead of down near the frame rails concern you?

Denny
I'm going to be heat wrapping all the hotside parts to help keep the heat down. I've owned a few big turbo cars in the past mainly dsm/evo's and never had the hotsides heat wrapped or coated And it ended up with heat issues, so this go around I'm going to use the heat wrap to help keep the temps down. If that doesn't work ill switch tos big core aluminum radiator and i may end up adding one of the cowl hoods later if need be for temp control.
 
Been following this too. Now that you've got it mocked up, how's the hood clearance with the truck intake?
 
I'm going to be heat wrapping all the hotside parts to help keep the heat down. I've owned a few big turbo cars in the past mainly dsm/evo's and never had the hotsides heat wrapped or coated And it ended up with heat issues, so this go around I'm going to use the heat wrap to help keep the temps down. If that doesn't work ill switch tos big core aluminum radiator and i may end up adding one of the cowl hoods later if need be for temp control.

I never had a turbo on one of my hot rods but the motor bay on my Duster can get plenty warm in traffic....water temp doesn't get over 180....by with all the aluminium and the ceramic coated headers, they throw off a lot of heat.
 
Been following this too. Now that you've got it mocked up, how's the hood clearance with the truck intake?
I haven't had the chance to get my hood on as I'm doing all this solo here in my apartment and needed to always ask someone for help when I need to move it in anad out. But Dave test fitted his with the stock hood and it cleared.
 
I never had a turbo on one of my hot rods but the motor bay on my Duster can get plenty warm in traffic....water temp doesn't get over 180....by with all the aluminium and the ceramic coated headers, they throw off a lot of heat.

The more I think about it the more I want to run an aluminum radiator as well seeing as itll give me more room up front in general and also help keep things cooler too.

This weekend I took the turbo 400 my dad let me borrow for mock up back to him in NC. I thought id be looking for my own turbo 400 for a while until my brother called me while I was there and one of his customers needed an 6.0 swap done on their catering truck, and needed it done over the weekend. So my brother sold the guy the 6.0 LS he was swapping into his 3rd gen Camaro in order to get it done.

And Since he is getting a chunk of change for the quick turn around time on the swap, he decided he would just buy a full LS/4l60 or 4l80 swap with everything for his Camaro now that he sold the original motor. And since I got roped into helping my brother pull and replace that 6.0 in that Silverado, he gave me the turbo 400 he had sitting in his garage that he was originally going to put in the f-body. So now I have my own free turbo 400 trans that ill just have someone go through to make sure its all good to go. So no having to search for/buy one for myself anymore.

I also got the engine pulled back out last night as well so I can sand/prime and paint the engine bay area and make it meet my standards, as well as prep and paint the engine block/timing cover to match the heads and valve covers. So now I've got some work to do to keep my busy.
 
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