reworking a fully restored car

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This guy had his frame fixed a a shop for state inspection and it passed.

Came to my son when the front upper fell off. Replaced the complete unitize front. He didn't have much money and needed the car. $800.00 and my son supplied the front.

He is still thinks the price was to high because Steve did it on a week end. Two days for $800 is a rip off he said. No one makes 400 a day in his mind. And that was with floors and paint. Other members that come here can verify.

Now he wants the quarters from the Demon shell that Steve is removing put on his car. I'll flatten them out with the loader first

Gotta love guys like that. Who just have no idea how money works.

My shop? During after hours it's a 100 bucks to open the door to see if we have what you need in stock or how long it will be to get it. Really separates the needs from the wants.
 
Thats sure some story there Oldmanmopar but I don't see what it has to do with this thread ? Maybe youshould start a thread of your own regarding customers too cheap to pay there bills . You've met me and should know I'm not that guy .
 
Wow Chris, I've been following this and I have to say kudos to you for following this thru and saving your car. After all of this a lot of guys would have saved the drivetrain and started all over. Great job. Moparfest wouldn't be the same without seeing that car.
 
Thats sure some story there Oldmanmopar but I don't see what it has to do with this thread ? Maybe youshould start a thread of your own regarding customers too cheap to pay there bills . You've met me and should know I'm not that guy .

I think he's just saying there's some good guys out there. I've been a bodyman my whole life and gotta say the one short-changed is usually me, but I have no issues sleeping either. There's a certain satisfaction providing more than what's expected for some, but his customer didn't see it.

I hate to hear of stories like this. 50k could have built on hella car.
 
Best wishes fixing it correctly. Please post pics when your done and along the way.
 
Thanks guys , of course I will continue posting pics all the way through the rework , Of course there are some good ones out there and I'm sure some of you are those guys , It wasn't supposed to be 50k it was supposed to be 15-20 but the milking began and the body and paint part ended up between 25-30 then there was 10-12 mechanical and re-assembly to the point where I could get it out of there and finish the interior and trim myself , thats how it ended up at the 50 number .
65Vart it isn't costing anywhere near what getting another car , prepping it and doing the swap would cost in fact so far on this go around I'm in for about 1400 in sheet metal plus whatever the welder charges me , I'll be grabbing a cheap spot welder to do most of the panel work so I'll be on the hook for the frame welding and some areas the spot welder won't reach . Good to hear from ya , the car isn't coming this year but I'm getting itchy about missing altogether so who knows I might end up on an airplane to come hang with you guys , if I come can I drive your car to the car wash ? Keep your truck between the lines and stay awake eh brother !
 
Hey Chris, I think you have me confused with my buddy Mike (Mikes270Dart), all good buddy. All us Ontario members hope to see you there this year.
 
Hey Chris, I think you have me confused with my buddy Mike (Mikes270Dart), all good buddy. All us Ontario members hope to see you there this year.

Yeah sorry Wally I was walking down the street after posting that and it hit me doh ! that was Wally not Mike LOL ! Hows your latest project coming ? you going to finish before you sell it haha ? I am not planning on coming this year , I let everyone know last year that I plan on taking the car to Europe next year for a Euro tour that will hopefully work into shipping the car back to the East coast in time to hit Moparfest 2018 on the way home giving me the coast to coast cross Canada trip under my belt as well , I know big plans but hey up until 5 years ago BC to Moparfest was a retarded dream eh ! Cheers bud sorry about the mix up but then again maybe I should be apologizing to Mike eh !
 
On the car note , one side of the frame is ready to weld and the other will be ready before the welder shows up after work Monday or Tuesday , the trunk extensions are in limbo with AMD waiting for a shipment to come in from there stamping plant at the moment but I should hear monday if I'm getting both side's or just the one I really need in the next order heading north to Ken's Vintage Rehab this week . at least I already have the floor and other pieces so once the frame rails are in I will be able to keep moving forward .
 
Again, that all sucks for you, but at least you know its being done correctly this time, plus the bonus, you are learning how to do this yourself. Maybe you can use your new found skills to help other folks out your way to replace rusty floor pans, trunk floors and other metal work. Maybe you can recoup some of the $$$s lost by the shoddy work done by Mr. Shitstain, by doing some of this work for others.

I sometimes do side work doing floorpans and framerail repair/replacement. Not too much anymore, but it helped pay for my project. Helped a guy out doing floorpans on his 70 chevelle, and did a set of floor pans on a 65 mustang. I did a few others before that. It helps if they buy the parts and materials, and i just get payed for the labour.

Nice thing about doing floorpans and trunk floors is that other than sealing em up when done, is your not messing with exterior paint work. It can be EZ money.
 
Thanks Moparmatt but I don't weld , another member and his son are doing the welding for me and say they are going to teach me but I'm not holding my breath on my being able to learn lol ! I want to buy a portable clamp type spot welder but he wants me to wait and try his way { MIG } first so we will see .
 
Spot welder is real slick for clean metal.

Yeah I used one back in the day in Jr high to make a sheet metal tool box , the problem is you pay 150-200 for the unit but it only comes with 6 inch tongs and a 6 inch throat , the 18 inch tongs with 8 -10 inch offset you need to get around the frame rails and floor extensions go for a freaking fortune so I'm going to try using their MIG first I guess .
 
MIG with a shielding gas is the easiest to learn. Especially if you have a good teacher. Get the hang of it and you'll be fixing all the neighbors stuff, when the Cuda's done. LOL
 
Thanks Moparmatt but I don't weld , another member and his son are doing the welding for me and say they are going to teach me but I'm not holding my breath on my being able to learn lol ! I want to buy a portable clamp type spot welder but he wants me to wait and try his way { MIG } first so we will see .

Can you solder? If so you can learn to weld. Its not hard especially wire welding.

I have a Lincoln weld pak 100 HD fine little machine. With wire welding, if the feed wire pushes the torch, then your feeding wire too fast, or temp setting is too low. How i spot weld is i drill 1/4 " holes in one panel where i need the panels to spot weld together, then i clamp or use draw clecos to pin everything, then i wire weld rosette welds in the 1/4" holes. Grind em flat. Instant spot weld.
 
Yeah thats what they told me they were going to teach me , we'll see my eyes work a little different than most peoples so I have trouble flowing liquids .
 
Thanks Moparmatt but I don't weld , another member and his son are doing the welding for me and say they are going to teach me but I'm not holding my breath on my being able to learn lol ! I want to buy a portable clamp type spot welder but he wants me to wait and try his way { MIG } first so we will see .

Can you solder? If so you can learn to weld. Its not hard especially wire welding.

I have a Lincoln weld pak 100 HD fine little machine. With wire welding, if the feed wire pushes the torch, then your feeding wire too fast, or temp setting is too low. How i spot weld is i drill 1/4 " holes in one panel where i need the panels to spot weld together, then i clamp or use draw clecos to pin everything, then i wire weld rosette welds in the 1/4" holes. Grind em flat. Instant spot weld.

Nice thing is mine has a mig conversion kit, and a 100 cu ft bottle. I can use it in the shop as a mig, or disfonnect the bottle, swap its internal leads and put flux core wire in it and weld on my fence line. Full portability.
 
Chris, I wouldn't buy a cheap spot welder to put your car together, more than likely the welds will pop loose over time leaving you with more work. It would be better to invest in a mig welder and plug weld the panels on, will be less risk of panels popping loose and the mig will be more useful down the road for other things. If cost of a welder is an issue, then it would be better to pay someone to weld on the panels, I have seen panels that have failed using a cheap spot welder, not a pretty sight.
 
Well the Mopar Rescue Team came over after dinner last night and what I assumed would be a few hours over a couple of nights was actually an hour and the frames are done . They brought a 110v hobart flux wire unit that ran off a 15 amp breaker without any hiccups , I had asked the son to just do the perimeter of the U channel screwed inside the frame rail and the top flanges and down the inner side thinking we could do the bottom and outer side later , it would have been a lot easier to do those beads with the car up in the air but he got on a roll and aside from some patching of the bottom where it was too thin and blew out the job is done . Yippeee now to wait for the floor extensions to arrive before doing the floor and the rest of the panels . I'll post pics in a day or two after I get the grinding and the priming done .
To be honest there folks I am much happier paying a good welder to do this than risking it coming apart , I had thought that a spot welder would be a clean way to replicate what the factory did when they built the car , if the welds are going to be suspect I may just use it for joining all the new sheet metal together then have everything final welded after it is all in place for safety .
 
Sounds great. I cant wait for pix. Usually its the cutting, fab, measuring etc to get it all correct thats time consuming. I figured welding the framerail splices would only be an hour or 2. Cool beans. She is starting to come along.
 
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