RHS pump gas 360

-
ou812 said:
Thanks! It's a pretty damn good cylinder head for the $$$. It's too bad some guys knock anything new in the Mopar world because you know we need new parts!!

Was that 340 in a competition?
Click to expand...

LOL why yes it was. That 340 is now Down Under in a super sweet 68 GTS Dart.

We did a 408 stroker last year with the XE275HL cam, 1.6 rockers and the RHS heads w/1.92/1.625 valve and did no port work at all, not even a cleanup, and it made 465hp 520tq.
 
Could an RHS head with a chamber hogged to 73cc still work? Or would it upset the dynamics of the chamber taking it out that far?
 
I have a set of Edelbrocks on my daughters car and now i want to go with the RHS, seems to me that alum heads are not good with 10.5 comp motor they dont build enough heat i am now going to put in a 195 themostat, see if that helps
 
Rat Patrol said:
Could an RHS head with a chamber hogged to 73cc still work? Or would it upset the dynamics of the chamber taking it out that far?
Click to expand...

73 is a tall order. You will lose quench surface area but should still be OK just alot of grinding.
 
65Vsignet said:
I have a set of Edelbrocks on my daughters car and now i want to go with the RHS, seems to me that alum heads are not good with 10.5 comp motor they dont build enough heat i am now going to put in a 195 themostat, see if that helps
Click to expand...

Most guys would love for they're cars to run so cool they HAVE to run hotter t-stats!! Let me tell you...eddy heads can be made to work very well. If you already have them, I'd invest in some porting to pick power up if that's what your looking for.
To me, the RHS heads are best if your starting from scratch or replacing OE heads. I've had one customer go from eddy heads to RHS heads with no other changes and really liked the difference but I don't go out of my way to talk people out of the eddy heads and into the RHS.
 
1 Pt. is rule of thumb. Or so said often. Car craft did a comparo of the iron vs. Alkuminum heads sometime back. I think the big thing is, don't drop or gain 3 pt.s. (LOL) or loose alot of quench or suddenly gain alot of quench. (From a zero deck piston build for example)
 
Can you guess what we learned? Zilcho. As in zero difference anywhere in the power or detonation characteristics of the iron versus aluminum heads. Even the optimum total ignition timing was the same at 36 degrees. Regardless of coolant temp, rate of acceleration, steady state, or through a sweep, the dyno curves for the two styles of heads were identical. If anything, we could squint and guess and mumble that maybe aluminum heads were better by 2-3 hp. But the one thing we could never say is that the iron heads retained more heat and made more power than the aluminum. Maybe it's different on some engines with a drastically different water-jacket design, but we'll stand up and say that the old bench-racing line just ain't true.

Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticle...ylinder_heads_test/viewall.html#ixzz1Xsbpp0Mb
 
Here's a couple of pics of that 360:
 

Attachments

  • 006.JPG
    87.1 KB · Views: 718
  • 007.JPG
    154.2 KB · Views: 676
Brian, is that going into a strip car? I like the numbers, but the torque peak seems high for a street driven car. I want a wide flat torque curve that sets you back immediately, that's why I'm going with a stroker. Not too many places you where can wind out an engine like that around here without attracting attention from the police.
 
Wow... my combo is very close to yours except the heads, cam and intake. Those numbers are pretty impressive. Time to start looking around for heads, cam, and intake. lol
 
BrianT said:
Brian, is that going into a strip car? I like the numbers, but the torque peak seems high for a street driven car. I want a wide flat torque curve that sets you back immediately, that's why I'm going with a stroker. Not too many places you where can wind out an engine like that around here without attracting attention from the police.
Click to expand...

This thing will accelerate much harder than you think. The TQ curve climbs very quickly. That's an indicator of acceleration.
TQ alone is not responsible for moving the car, because the engine revs so HP has to be included in acceleration. The 360 in my duster only made 460TQ. But I guarantee you the 100HP difference gets the car down the track in a much different fashion!!

This is a 100% street car that will be driven out of town on the freeway for hours at a time.
 
70aarcuda said:
Can you guess what we learned? Zilcho. As in zero difference anywhere in the power or detonation characteristics of the iron versus aluminum heads. ......... the dyno curves for the two styles of heads were identical. If anything, we could squint and guess and mumble that maybe aluminum heads were better by 2-3 hp. But the one thing we could never say is that the iron heads retained more heat and made more power than the aluminum.
Read more: http://www.carcraft.com/techarticle...ylinder_heads_test/viewall.html#ixzz1Xsbpp0Mb
Click to expand...

Thanks! I went to go look for that and ended up busy with other stuff.
 
I use plastic spacers usually.

I think he will be using either a 27" tire and 2.96 gears or a 25" tire and 2.76 gears. 904 trans.
 
Good numbesr, fairly typical or expected imo given the combo 'maybe switching a few things around'.

uncorrected is what you'll see for power unless you run it in the ideal correction factored weather.

I believe the ''mad scientist build'' form mopar musckles were the higher corrected numbers, but none the less switch this for that then take away a lil stroke...then add a hair more cam to compensate then lose 267cfm for 253cfm and open chambers..
http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/...p_0211_340_x_head_buildup/hydraulic_cams.html

many ways, all different too.


Id like to see what 1.5's do to the numbers
 
The DA the day of the test was around 3300 feet, it was 100+ and ~30% humidty. Take the same engine to the coast where it was 70-75 and same humidity and it makes 420ish uncorrected. There have been many occasions where the correction factor went the other way during winter out here. Cool dry air, seen correction factors of .98-.99 so it made more at the crank than the corrected numbers.

Mags will almost always post the corrected numbers. Don't forget that the mad scientist build, which had the very aggressive MM lobe solid cam in it (239 at .050 .580ish lift with the 1.6's they used), was done on a superflow dyno which uses a more aggressive, higher correction factor for the same weather conditions than the SAE factors the DTS applies. There's a reason the westtech stuff had higher number than the same engines tested on DTS dynos. Place the DTS and superflow dyno side by side and test them. The superflow will always put out bigger numbers than the DTS because of the correction software they use. Comparisons between the two or really any dynos is pretty tough unless they apply the same factors.

I'd guess 1.5's would cost it about 10 hp max.

All good
 
ou812 said:
This thing will accelerate much harder than you think. The TQ curve climbs very quickly. That's an indicator of acceleration.
TQ alone is not responsible for moving the car, because the engine revs so HP has to be included in acceleration. The 360 in my duster only made 460TQ. But I guarantee you the 100HP difference gets the car down the track in a much different fashion!!

This is a 100% street car that will be driven out of town on the freeway for hours at a time.
Click to expand...

The reason I asked was my buddy is pushing me to go the cheaper route and build a stock stroke 360 using the parts I have and then have you work over the Eddie heads. He thinks the 408 would be overkill for a weekend warrior / car show cruiser type of ride.
 
BrianT said:
The reason I asked was my buddy is pushing me to go the cheaper route and build a stock stroke 360 using the parts I have and then have you work over the Eddie heads. He thinks the 408 would be overkill for a weekend warrior / car show cruiser type of ride.
Click to expand...

It's all up to you! You have to look at everything on the car..will it hold up to the 408? What gearing? Car show? Really??
 
BrianT said:
The reason I asked was my buddy is pushing me to go the cheaper route and build a stock stroke 360 using the parts I have and then have you work over the Eddie heads. He thinks the 408 would be overkill for a weekend warrior / car show cruiser type of ride.
Click to expand...

Strokers don't have to be Max power efforts.

I got my 392 built because I wanted a lot of tractable torque to make up for running a three speed transmission.

The extra torque made by the stroker at lower RPM makes for a much better behaved street car...

- more effective lower speed passing,
- less radical idle for the same cam duration
- faster between speed x-y acceleration,
- cooler running lower comp for the same HP, etc etc

But as Brian says, that must be balanced against extra strain on the trans, diff and axles.

Stroking is an old hot rodders trick...they did it because it made for a better "streeter".

I wouldn't go back.

My 2c.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top