SBE 318 basic rebuild +CAM , INTAKE, HEADS, expectations?

-
The 350 is making about 30 hp more at 3,000 rpm then the 318 pretty good gain, but the 350 also has better flowing heads.
and .like .150 more stroke...
 
Do they fit with stock rear suspension? 8-1/4 rear end?
On a 8" steel wheel?

Further
my headers are a PITA to take off the driver side routes under the steering and there is no way the big old starter could be removed, I assume it's a older long tube design.
They are in bad shape and I think I have to replace them

So what SB header does clear a 74 duster with power steering ..
Long or shorty headers?
No guess work
I moved my springs in about 3/8", yes on a 8" wheel... but it's too tight to the body for my liking... i also have a 62 b-body and i'm just a spy on these forums :) so... no idea on a a-body.. plus i have 4.57 gears and i wanted a big diameter to eat some of that up.. otherwise i would have a smaller tire
 
and .like .150 more stroke...
Cid x VE% is probably the biggest factor for torque. (technically a 318 x 96% = 360 x 85% = 306)
Hp at 2,000 - 3,000 rpm is 38%-57% of torque.

That 318 is making similar low speed power as a stock 2bbl 360 but ya ain't gonna make same as a warmed over 360, but generally you should be running deeper gears with a 318 so should be comparing the engines hp at the rpms they be at for any given mph. Say 318 is at 3300 rpm while 360 is at 2900 rpm at X mph then those are the hp numbers that we should be comparing. So a lot depends on gearing which most leave as an after thought.
 
Cid x VE% is probably the biggest factor for torque. (technically a 318 x 96% = 360 x 85% = 306)
Hp at 2,000 - 3,000 rpm is 38%-57% of torque.

That 318 is making similar low speed power as a stock 2bbl 360 but ya ain't gonna make same as a warmed over 360, but generally you should be running deeper gears with a 318 so should be comparing the engines hp at the rpms they be at for any given mph. Say 318 is at 3300 rpm while 360 is at 2900 rpm at X mph then those are the hp numbers that we should be comparing. So a lot depends on gearing which most leave as an after thought.
You enjoyed that didn't you? :)
 
I think it's relevant to the OPs question there's many ways to get there, wherever there is :)
 
I think it's relevant to the OPs question there's many ways to get there, wherever there is :)
I honestly never thought bout it how you explained it, that was well written.. my caveman mind just thinks More stroke=More torque...
 
I honestly never thought bout it how you explained it, that was well written.. my caveman mind just thinks More stroke=More torque...
For any given hp your generally just trading rpm and torque back and forth, while hp gets transmitted straight through minus rotational, friction etc.. losses until it gets to the ground. Engine size is the 1st swapping of rpm and torque for a given hp.
 
on a 9.5:1 318 with ported 302's and a MP P4452761 (.450/.455 268/272 110LSA) with a performer RPM and 750 3310 i laid down a respectable 330hp @ 5750

with aftermarket heads and a airgap, i don't see why you couldn't be in the 350 range as long as keep the compression up. chasing much more than that requires a bigger cam that will only lessen the street manners while narrowing the power band and move it higher in the RPM range.

fwiw, a melling MTD-1 would come in fairly similar numbers wise and would be a good VFM pick if you're not going for all out power.
 
So a lot depends on gearing which most leave as an after thought.
True. My 273 Valiant was a nice highway car with 2.76 with a 26'' tire. But getting to 65 MPH seemed to take forever.Avatar photo.
The 318 Belvedere I have now also has 2.76 with a 29'' tire has more grunt down lower.
Both engines were stock bottom end and stock heads. Edelbrock Performer intakes headers and small lift cams
.446 to .454. Now I had 4.10's in the Belvedere and it was quite a stop light performer.That was the chioce I had at the time. Gotta use what you have...
 
on a 9.5:1 318 with ported 302's and a MP P4452761 (.450/.455 268/272 110LSA) with a performer RPM and 750 3310 i laid down a respectable 330hp @ 5750

with aftermarket heads and a airgap, i don't see why you couldn't be in the 350 range as long as keep the compression up. chasing much more than that requires a bigger cam that will only lessen the street manners while narrowing the power band and move it higher in the RPM range.

fwiw, a melling MTD-1 would come in fairly similar numbers wise and would be a good VFM pick if you're not going for all out power.
Got it.
I Need to know what headers to get , that Don't entangle the steering linkage?
 
UH OH! V/P gonna be low, tisk tisk tisk :)
pish-posh! that's just what it says on paper...

that thing is screaming for a MP .509 292 stick. it'll be the catz *** with them 4.56's and massive stall!

ain't nobody in the tri-county area out running that thang to the DQ baby!
 
UH OH! V/P gonna be low, tisk tisk tisk :)
not just low, but almost non existent.
And no pistons are mentioned, and no convertor is mentioned, nor are any gears, at least not in post #1; and a 74 is a bit of a porker.

and com'on, 4.56s in a streeter only trades one problem for another. Been there done that, max psi is infinitely better.

How many times is this gonna keep coming up?

For his pressure to be down where it is, at sealevel, with the factory cam, in at 48* Ica. the Compression ratio would have to be about 6.7
Change that Ica to 67*, and the pressure falls to an estimated 94psi, and Dallas at 500ft, will cost another 3psi.
If that is true; the heat of compression will be barely enough to light it off and idle, and
She's gonna be a dog, all the way to shift rpm.
Like I said, this must be a joke.
I said my piece, I'm not coming back.
 
Last edited:
A higher compression 302 ford would make about similar low speed torque as low compression 318, Ford guys seem to have no problem with running 302s, or even 289s.
 
A higher compression 302 ford would make about similar low speed torque as low compression 318, Ford guys seem to have no problem with running 302s, or even 289s.
That's because Ford was really good at getting more from less.
 
Then as a 318 owner myself.. i will say... go on market place and find a 360.... you will have much more torque and power for much less money.. on a good day you can find one for $300ish.. put in a cam and intake and you will probably be in the same range as the 318 with heads/cam/intake... would be a better bang for the buck.
Red x
Different torque converter, different pan, different driver side mount. Have to add the cost of those. Then to make that 360 run, a rebuild to get rid of the dished pistons to help compression , for beginners, no, keep the 318 for a cruiser. Better bang for the buck.
Unless there's something truly wrong with it like a rod knock, rod thru clock, locked up, etc. Then maybe consider a 360 if one happens to pop up...
 
-
Back
Top