Slant 6 ignition

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clementine

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1972 duster, 225 slant.

Started running crappy.

Pulled plugs and cleaned them.

Ran better but not really back to where it was.

Changed points and condenser used original cap n rotor. No change.

Changed cap n rotor.

No change

Checked plug wires with timing light.
Winner winner #1/#6 aren’t passing the lightening.

Swap wire#5 with #6 and still #6 is not passing the fire.

Piling it on, now #2 isnt letting the electrons through.

67K original miles

Now, oh lords of FABO…..

What to do?

The electronic box is a 2 pin.

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This one. Any other markings i should be looking for? Pretty grandma car. No real hop ups. Loves tail winds and downhills

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Yeah, I started throwing parts at it and I am trying to avoid that type of mentality. Good chance to learn a better way of diagnosing.
Exactly. Because if the problem is not ignition related, you can put a 5k dollar ignition system on it and still end up with the same problem.
 
You do know that Slant 6's have solid lifters and need to have the valves adusted every 30,000 miles. Probably has never been done.

They always run better after you re-adjust the valves.


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I don't know how you are testing the cylinders for spark. But it is possible your problem is not ign related. First things first. Do a compression test. Check the valve lash. Check all vacuum lines for leaks. Did you set the points by dwell or with a feeler gauge?
 
Time for some (complete, careful) periodic maintenance. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. Yes, the car is likely overdue for a valve adjustment. And given what you've found so far, you're likely to need the carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads posted here for free download.
 
I don't know how you are testing the cylinders for spark. But it is possible your problem is not ign related. First things first. Do a compression test. Check the valve lash. Check all vacuum lines for leaks. Did you set the points by dwell or with a feeler gauge?
admittedly, a matchbook.

but the symptom of #1 and #6 not showing up on the timing light when I put the clamp on the wire was present before I changed the points and condensor. That whole dwell thing is something for me to learn.
 
Time for some (complete, careful) periodic maintenance. Tune-up parts and technique suggestions in this post. Yes, the car is likely overdue for a valve adjustment. And given what you've found so far, you're likely to need the carburetor operation and repair manuals and links to training movies and carb repair/modification threads posted here for free download.
Ive recently been through the carb and had her running pretty good. These symptoms just kinda popped up.

Ill check the lash. Ill also check to see if the #6/#1 wire magically come alive with RPM. That might tell me something, what? I don't know, but sometimes it changes things.
 
admittedly, a matchbook.

but the symptom of #1 and #6 not showing up on the timing light when I put the clamp on the wire was present before I changed the points and condensor. That whole dwell thing is something for me to learn.
A bad plug can give a non flash of a timing light. You mentioned you cleaned the plugs. Why? The only time I will clean plugs is if I have another issue, and the plugs get fouled with carbon or soot (only with relatively new plugs).
 
You mentioned you cleaned the plugs. Why?
I started there because it cost nothing and I was looking for a no spark situation.

If the plugs were fouled with more than what I saw (a bit of carbon) then I would know something new. I dunno really, seemed like a good place to start. Now Im curious to look at em again as when I swapped the #5 wire with the #6 (#6 was not giving a flash) I still didn't get a flash on #6.

Ill go re assess what I have going on and get some pics of plugs.

I also need to learn how to use a multi meter to check resistance. It's funny how little I know yet I have gotten pretty far.
 
Get these books (that last one linked there you can read for free at the Internet Archive), and as soon as you can, get the three books listed in this thread.
Ultimately, I need to start reading again. I’ll check em out.

Oddly now that I’m down here running it again.

#6 intermittent fire
#2 intermittent fire
#1 no fire

3, 4, 5 are steady fire with the light.

Rpm has come up since I’ve let it run.
Letting me know the #2, #6 are having effect.

Bear with me, i can most other things, just a bit lost on diagnostics.

EDIT
#1 will fire intermittent with RPM
Not consistent though.
 
Dave if you are not getting fire to some holes, I would check carefully for a bent dist. shaft, play in the shaft/ advance, or other related problems. And be CERTAIN the points are actually opening and closing as should be. I hate pulling dist's on slants but you might have to, give it a very close once over.
 
Check inside your distributor cap for carbon spark trails shorting things out.

Also stay away from the distributor caps with the narrow inside terminals > they are trouble. Teminals should be like 1/4" wide or better.

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Agree with the last two posts. Also take the cap off and see if the shaft has ant sided to side play. Can be ignition might not be alot more troubleshooting is needed. Also did this all happen after the points change?

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id do the following
might not help but doesn't cost nuffin

clean the ceramic part of each plug in brake cleaner or even dish soap and water
squeaky clean.. if the electricity can track across the ceramic in the dirt you get no spark

clean out the connectors on the ends on the wires in a similar way. dirt in the rubber boot can do the same thing.. well it can in damp wet places like where i'm from

make sure the screw on parts on the plug tops are tight if they need to stay in place for your leads.

try a spare or different set of leads...


if that doesn't help this does cost a bit

i have one of these (sadly sold out on your local website, but decent info)

Gunson Colortune See Through Spark Plug Kit G4074 G4171 G4172

its a see-thru spark plug with a little telescope and mirror so you can see the colour of the flame in the chamber..

dismissed by many as a waste of time. but hey there is no convincing some

diagnosing distribution issues in a multi branch manifold, setting idle mixture and just off idle running mixture... really quite handy, 1960s tech. but hey it works

Aim for a blue-ish flame and the car runs great. make sure you get the right size plug/adapters

works wonders if you have a carter BBD with two mixture screws on a six cylinder
the two screws have more or less of an impact on different cylinders depending on the branching/shape of the manifold.
special plug in each cylinder and work out which screw has most influence on it and note it down
use that to help navigate the rich at the middle cylinders lean at 1 and 6 situation that you can occasionally see on a six. basically get 2 and 5 right with both screws at the same setting
tweak for a nice no 3/4 and no 1/6 based on the notes you took.

for this issue I'd run it in the one that does not fire and take a look. No flames to see? use the long plug wire adapter and you can basically use any conductor from the distributor cap to the adapter as a temporary plug wire to discount the normal plug wire. just don't electrocute yourself.

if you can see a flame, the colour of it will dictate if its way too rich or way too lean to fire consistently...too rich will eventually end up in a wet plug, no spark situation the plug just shorts out.

Dave
 
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Dave if you are not getting fire to some holes, I would check carefully for a bent dist. shaft, play in the shaft/ advance, or other related problems. And be CERTAIN the points are actually opening and closing as should be. I hate pulling dist's on slants but you might have to, give it a very close once over.
I have been thinking the same thing since someone tagged Halifax. Im just a little confused on how it happened so quickly. I mean this cars dash, pedals and wires scream that its low miles. How does the dist. get bent?

Ill be checking the gap on those points. I should probably learn the whole dwell thing too while Im at it.

Thank youz guyz
 
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