How about a 4 barrel offy intake and fast fuel injection? I know it's more expensive but it seems like it would be easier to tune and more efficient and start easier and they have the potential for data logging so while on a dyno it can be tuned to run the best for mileage then have another tune for race just bump up the boost put in the tune time the motor and you won't have to run 30 pounds of boost for a daily driver just a quarter or 8th mile at a time? Carbs and me never seem to get along
Slant 6 Turbo 68Dart Project
- Thread starter Serj22
- Start date
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Sounds like a plan! Keep us posted! :glasses7:
CichliDart
Well, where is it now?
Is there a particular FAST system you are looking at?
Hi,
I had a lot of fun reading this thread overtime and I don't want to hijack this thread but I need some help with my setup. This is my thread on the slant six forum: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55812&start=30
Long story short - I had an engine built about 4 years ago with: Weisco pistons, 268 cam kit, stock rods, efi with powerjection, and megajolt ignition.
Had bad misfires and recently checked compression as last ditch effort on each cylinder. Read low (90psi) and the same on each cylinder. Found out you can't use stock 225 rods with the weisco pistons...
ops:
I know it isn't the builders fault but I wish he would have caught that it's about a 1/4" in the hole.
My question is what should I do now because I eventually wanted to turbo charge the motor?
Loving the work you have been doing OP
Keep it up!
I had a lot of fun reading this thread overtime and I don't want to hijack this thread but I need some help with my setup. This is my thread on the slant six forum: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55812&start=30
Long story short - I had an engine built about 4 years ago with: Weisco pistons, 268 cam kit, stock rods, efi with powerjection, and megajolt ignition.
Had bad misfires and recently checked compression as last ditch effort on each cylinder. Read low (90psi) and the same on each cylinder. Found out you can't use stock 225 rods with the weisco pistons...
ops: I know it isn't the builders fault but I wish he would have caught that it's about a 1/4" in the hole.
My question is what should I do now because I eventually wanted to turbo charge the motor?
Loving the work you have been doing OP
Keep it up!
Hi,
I had a lot of fun reading this thread overtime and I don't want to hijack this thread but I need some help with my setup. This is my thread on the slant six forum: http://slantsix.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=55812&start=30
Long story short - I had an engine built about 4 years ago with: Weisco pistons, 268 cam kit, stock rods, efi with powerjection, and megajolt ignition.
Had bad misfires and recently checked compression as last ditch effort on each cylinder. Read low (90psi) and the same on each cylinder. Found out you can't use stock 225 rods with the weisco pistons...
I know it isn't the builders fault but I wish he would have caught that it's about a 1/4" in the hole.
My question is what should I do now because I eventually wanted to turbo charge the motor?
Loving the work you have been doing OP
Keep it up!
With the super low compression ratio you have you should be able to run about 80psi of boost :glasses7: looks like your gonna have to pull it back apart and get the right rods or find a set of pistons that will work with the 225 rods the aftermarket ones are expensive but the motor could handle alot of boost with good parts
And I don't have a fast fuel injection setup picked out I was just wondering if it would work and would give you the convince of efi then you could use off the shelf parts like the offy intake
Just put a set of K-1 rods in it (7.005", center to center,) and you're good to go, with a stock combustion chamber head. My setup is a measured 9:1 compression ratio and works well with a 66mm turbo.
I like you thinking
I figured that was what I would be in for. I guess I'll get to ordering.
On the Weisco spec sheet it says I would get about 10.5:1 did you do anything else to lower compression, like a spacer?
I like you thinking
I figured that was what I would be in for. I guess I'll get to ordering.
On the Weisco spec sheet it says I would get about 10.5:1 did you do anything else to lower compression, like a spacer?
I have no spacer, and only a .040"-thick head gasket. Measured that with a burette and colored water, it came out exactly 9:1, and I was careful. My cylinder head has never been milled, nor has the block had any material removed from its sealing surface.
I don't know where Wiseco gets their figures (you'd THINK they'd be accurate with this,) but, I re-checked mine several times and it is an actual 9:1.
Works well.... at 15 pounds of boost.... soon to be 20, then 25 if I don't blow it up...
Goes 12-flat on racing gas, with a Snowperformance BoostCooler using pure methanol... no water. A/F ratio is 11.4 under boost conditions. Fat, but safe...
It weighs 2,680 with no driver and has a 2.76:1 final drive with a spool. Research has proven that deeper gears always go slower, hence, the strange ring and pinion gear ratio. The slicks are some 9"-wide Hoosiers that are 26"-tall.
I rented an ISKY O-Ring cutter and installed the (supplied) copper O-Rings... I don't know what that might have done to my compression ratio...
ops: It was done after the compression ratio was calculated (measured.)kesteb
Well-Known Member
If your pistons are really .250 in the hole, milling .100 would get you around 8.0 cpr.
You guys should put a list together of parts for what's needed to do a turbo slant and the best place to source parts and what cars have the best factory turbos to use I know there are alot of variations in what people want for hp goals but a good beginning point to start at then build from there. I've done alot of turbo stuff on diesels but am kinda out of my element with the gas side of stuff and bill and serj have it figured out pretty good and also what other members might be making parts like the j tube
Nobody (that I am aware of,) manufactures the PISHTA J-pipe, but It's not difficult to make, yourself. In fact, PISHTA sent me a copy of the blueprint, and I photocopied it, so it is just a mattter of looking at the specs and, putting together the pieces.
I will mail you a hard copy if you'll email me your mailing address. My email is [email protected]. I will also send you, email, a detailed list of the parts needed to build the 225 I have been talking about.
All I need is your email address.
I'll send you a pm and any chance you would wanna do the hangar18 mod to a carb for me I have a guy here in town that rebuilds carbs and ships them worldwide and I would be curious to try to use either a 2 barrel demon for now or just find a holley and run it I am switching over to a 2 barrel from my single and converting to electronic ignition and should it be Petronics or what?
I think the Mopar factory electronic distributor is fine; the turbo motor will have a 5,500rpm redline (not much demand on the ignition system) and if you gap your plugs @ .022"-inch, there's not much demand there... Buying an aftermarket sustem seems to me, like just another unnecessaary expendature. I use an MSD 6-AL box and have never had a misfire...
Just my 2-cents...:happy1:
Either carb would seem to me, to be fine... I don't have the Hangar18 mods, and am unfamliar with the program...
Serj22
Well-Known Member
You must have them Bill, you just don't call them that. Holley lists the Hangar 18 mods as those needed to make the carburetor operate for blow-thru.
So what does the mod do and what's all entailed can u put it in lamens terms so I understand I also thought about propane but I think to much power would be lost going that way
Serj22
Well-Known Member
Basically You're doing a few things:
1.Cutting the choke horn off - and removing the choke - then filling in the slot where the choke rod came through the base of the carb cover.
2. Putting in some kind of uncrushable float- usually nitrophyl to make sure boost doesn't crush it.
3. Removing the power valve and turning it into a boost referenced power valve, or one that opens when it has pressure.
4. Filling the vacuum port hole on the bottom of the carburetor.
5. Referencing the power valve pocket to boost. I drilled a 3/8" hole through the side of the carb, and put a piece of 3/8" tube from there to the carb hat where it receives positive pressure. You can also reference this port to your exhaust.
6. Jetting up to combat a lean AFR, which is done through a wideband setup. That is the first thing you will need when turbo-ing - a AFR reading.
7. Then there's the "Crutch" which is a VTE (vent tube extension) where you are putting a piece of tubing on top of the vent, and bending it towards the intake charge.
I used a Holley 350 to do all of mine.
I'm sure you posted pics of what was done to the carb can u post them again so I can see and do you see any use in using a proform main body with dial a jet for ease of tuning? Also I saw you were saying you needed to rebuild your motor I have a buddy here in oregon that has a running slant out his 74 dart that he's selling the motor and tranny together for $300 the tranny is a 904 he drove the cat home on a 4 hour drive and pulled it out we live about an hour from the California border I thought about buying it to use it as a mock up for turbo headers I have a mig welder but need a tig if I'm gonna try to make headers. I would like to borrow one and make a jig so I can make a few of them since nobody makes anything possibly even mock one up with flex pipe so I can copy bends. I'll just buy a kit of random bends at first then use my tubing bender or find an exhaust pipe bender to make them and keep power steering. I will leave them raw or use dei wrap ceramic coating is great but I don't have access to know anyone that can make me a deal. Also I have an h1c off a 93 intercooled 5.9 cummins with a 20cm exhaust housing is that too much turbo for the slant or will it work I already have a 4" downpipe also
I HAD some Hangar18 mods, such as increased diameter power valve orifices and a boost referenced power valve, but not all of them, and frankly, I felt like I had screwed up things so badly that I took the cowards way out, decided that I would simply not drive this car on the street, so made it into JUST a race car.... so, that made it possible to do the easy thing (and, forgetting about driveability "manners," and gas mileage,) just remove the power valve, entirely and raise the jet sizes by 10....
It worked well, and gave me the A/F ratio I needed, so, NO, I don't utilize the Hangar18 methodology at all, but my car would not be something you'd want to drive on the street; unbelieveably-miserable gas mileage, to say the least! :banghead:
Serj22
Well-Known Member
H1c is a good turbo for a slant actually. I believe Rusty Jr. is using one on his. I have a slant for use, that my shop landlord is giving me for $200 but I kind of want to rebuild my late 60s block that it has already. Right now the car has been parked for about a week while I think of what I want to do.
I have thought about using the dial-a-jet system, and here's my thought on it - I wanted to use them initially but couldn't fathom the $60 price tag for a different metering block.
With a AFR guage I have now installed the perfect jet setup for my car, which is 2 #72 jets, so buying one now would be pointless for me.
That's the 3/8" tube coming through the power valve cavity. You can also see the vacuum port at the bottom closed up with JB weld.
Reversed power valve with a stainless metal wire setup holding the spring. The spring keeps it closed, boost pushes it open.
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
ive run this and the hx35 now on my setup. they are both really nice turbos. if you were to use one you might wanna find the 16cm housing. that being said, if you are only planning on running low boost i.e. 10psi or so then i would find another turbo. if you are planning on pushing the limits of the motor going north of 20psi then that is the turbo for you. lol. ive run up to 25psi with the wh1c and the motor and i loved every second of it.
Yea I plan on pushing the limits of the stock lower end and I found flanges I'm gonna try to build a turbo header I have a tubing that bends 1.75 tube od think it would be over kill for a header I wouldn't run dom or anything like that but if I get 1 down I can build a jig an bust a couple out. I also have an hx35 from a 12 valve cummins I built but it's got a Wastegate and I was gonna run something different there.
RustyPlymouth
Well-Known Member
i ran the stock internal wastegate on both. i used an actuator off of a china turbo with a boost controller though. they work well.
What do you think of this setup for main bearing stability?
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