SmallBlock engine swap on a Mopar A-body with headers.... Never Again!

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I hate my Doug's. They hit the steering box, both torsion bars, the steering linkage, and steering column shaft. The steering box interference was bad. The torsion bars are just barely touching and I had to beat the crap out of them for the steering linkage. The oil filter adapter leaks no matter what. I gave up after 3 tries with new gaskets. I installed the regular oil plate and a filter tonight. The 90° adapter is garbage. My header is covered in baked on oil.
Get the shitty headers that go under and over the steering linkage. then go back to the Doug's. Doug's will make your day after you go for about three drives and crimp the shitty bastards shut.
 
Things that would help...

Headers bolted to exhaust pipes so that they stay put off to the sides.

Ratchet wrenches from craftsman, but really box end wrenches are the way to go with bell housing bolts.
Crescent wrench on oil filter adapter bolt or go underneath and use a 1/2 breaker with a 4"extension , it will just clear torsion bar and snug it , don't get carried away... it's 1/2 drive.
Starter is always time consumimg....so you have to approach it with that in mind.
Go ahead and ding the header above the idler because it will more than likely contact it.

Once it's all in....every future motor you put in will be cake in comparison to the initial fitting of the combo. I've done 5 different sb' s built more radical than the next , always go in easier than the first.
Those under link headers are the same amount of work getting in, except the pass side slips in easier than Doug's or tti...but they have no ground clearance and pinch close.
How much hp lost you think when 2 or 3 tubes get smashed? Lol

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Well, according to the Engine Masters video, smash the header tube and dyno test video, nothing.....
 
Ummmmm..... you don't need that adaptor with most headers out there, including the cheap hedmans. just say'n...
TTI makes a great adapter, to adapt headman b-body to their 3" exhaust when installing a low deck big-block in an a-body.
I know this is no help to the op. but, with minimum amount of mechanical skills, of any kind. lol basic hot rodding. lol
it makes an affordable, workable exhaust system for low deck big block swap with manual steering.
 
I hate my Doug's. They hit the steering box, both torsion bars, the steering linkage, and steering column shaft. The steering box interference was bad. The torsion bars are just barely touching and I had to beat the crap out of them for the steering linkage. The oil filter adapter leaks no matter what. I gave up after 3 tries with new gaskets. I installed the regular oil plate and a filter tonight. The 90° adapter is garbage. My header is covered in baked on oil.
When I put Doug's on my duster, we spent 4 hours trying to get them in on driver's side. THEN, we discovered that the last pipe was supposed to be removed from the collector BEFORE installing the front three pipes. After the front 3 bolted in, only then does pipe 4 go in around the torsion bar and back in to the collector.. Took 15 min..
 
When I put Doug's on my duster, we spent 4 hours trying to get them in on driver's side. THEN, we discovered that the last pipe was supposed to be removed from the collector BEFORE installing the front three pipes. After the front 3 bolted in, only then does pipe 4 go in around the torsion bar and back in to the collector.. Took 15 min..
No, it took 4hrs and 15 minutes. Lol
 
Last swap i did, 69 dart with spool k frame, i used the Summit el cheapo headers and hated every minute of it. Wicked horrible fit and install. Absolutely the worst headers i had ever used. I'll stick with the cheap Hooker or Headmans, which have always been a breeze to install.
 
Things that would help...

Headers bolted to exhaust pipes so that they stay put off to the sides.

Ratchet wrenches from craftsman, but really box end wrenches are the way to go with bell housing bolts.
Crescent wrench on oil filter adapter bolt or go underneath and use a 1/2 breaker with a 4"extension , it will just clear torsion bar and snug it , don't get carried away... it's 1/2 drive.
Starter is always time consumimg....so you have to approach it with that in mind.
Go ahead and ding the header above the idler because it will more than likely contact it.

Once it's all in....every future motor you put in will be cake in comparison to the initial fitting of the combo. I've done 5 different sb' s built more radical than the next , always go in easier than the first.
Those under link headers are the same amount of work getting in, except the pass side slips in easier than Doug's or tti...but they have no ground clearance and pinch close.
How much hp lost you think when 2 or 3 tubes get smashed? Lol

View attachment 1715172394
Truth, here....
 
Last swap i did, 69 dart with spool k frame, i used the Summit el cheapo headers and hated every minute of it. Wicked horrible fit and install. Absolutely the worst headers i had ever used. I'll stick with the cheap Hooker or Headmans, which have always been a breeze to install.
Whoa! That is the exact opposite of my experience!
No joke, best fitting el’cheapo header I have had to date is the Summit header. My Hookers. We’re 1 minor dent. Hedmans needed many dings.
Black Jacks needed a pair of string men from the circus with the mallets.
 
No joke, best fitting el’cheapo header I have had to date is the Summit header. My Hookers. We’re 1 minor dent. Hedmans needed many dings.
Black Jacks needed a pair of string men from the circus with the mallets.

Yeah, i spent a many hours with a torch rebending tubes, clearancing the steering shaft and box. Mini starter that barely fit. Scratched fresh paint in the engine bay... man was I ever livid.
TTI's, Hookers and Headmans go in like hot knife through butter. I've installed dozens of headers in my lifetime. Worst ever. Maybe they were boxed wrong or something happened during manufacturing.
 
This we agree on. Nuthin to it.
Are you kidding me! All he knows is what his mechanic told him. He doesn't take motors in and out he pays people to do that. He doesn't get dirty and greasy he's too good for that. So all he can possibly know is what his mechanic told him as always. Just repeating information not really knowing for a fact.
 
Well, according to the Engine Masters video, smash the header tube and dyno test video, nothing.....
I'd like to see something specific like a 410 sb that turns 6800 or so , real heads,with 1 5/8 deemed to be generally "too small" headers...then smash on those and tell me how the upper rpm range is effected.
 
I'd like to see something specific like a 410 sb that turns 6800 or so , real heads,with 1 5/8 deemed to be generally "too small" headers...then smash on those and tell me how the upper rpm range is effected.
That's depending on airflow camshaft , and real compression, wouldn't it ?
 
I'd like to see something specific like a 410 sb that turns 6800 or so , real heads,with 1 5/8 deemed to be generally "too small" headers...then smash on those and tell me how the upper rpm range is effected.
I await your videos!!!

They did do a header test on tube size.

Yes! I know, 1 test doesn’t fit all.
 
Been doing an engine swap in my Dart, for the last fkn 4 days!
318 to 360. With Doug's headers. Everything is fighting for the same location and blocking something else.
Almost none of the lower engine bolts can be reached with a normal socket wrench.
Stupid angled oil filter base large bolt is pretty much unreachable, and is now leaking ofcourse.

MOOD: Pissed!

How I long for those relatively smooth bigblock engine swaps in full size Mopars again...

318 out...

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340 in....

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Install the headers loosely in the engine compartment before dropping the engine in, we used string to hang it from master cylinder and passenger shock tower until the engine was close enough to install it...

Have starter on before header...

You leave the right side header off to get some wiggle room and install the left side 1/2 way in...


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Then slide the passenger side on...

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Then check both sides to be sure that you're centered... We had to bang on the left one a little to ding it for the steering shaft....

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No problem...
 
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Are you kidding me! All he knows is what his mechanic told him. He doesn't take motors in and out he pays people to do that. He doesn't get dirty and greasy he's too good for that. So all he can possibly know is what his mechanic told him as always. Just repeating information not really knowing for a fact.


That's right you know NOTHING I've done many an engine swap in my years..now I can afford to have PROFESSIONALS do work I don't want to..once again don't be jealous just cause' your still rolling around in the dirt working on that jalopy:eek::eek:
 
That's right you know NOTHING I've done many an engine swap in my years..now I can afford to have PROFESSIONALS do work I don't want to..once again don't be jealous just cause' your still rolling around in the dirt working on that jalopy:eek::eek:
Like the "PROFESSIONAL" who put the two bolts in your thermostat housing! LOL Bahahaha....
HONESTLY I REALLY DON'T CARE I JUST LIKE PULLING YOUR CHAIN....
 
Like the "PROFESSIONAL" who put the two bolts in your thermostat housing! LOL Bahahaha....
HONESTLY I REALLY DON'T CARE I JUST LIKE PULLING YOUR CHAIN....

Oh man you are so P.A.T.H.E.T.I.C. :rolleyes::rolleyes::rolleyes:
 
^^^^good Lord!
Anyways back to the subject- I 110% agree with krazykuda that's exactly the way I've ever done it after doing it once or twice. I just usually use a small Loop of bailing wire from the driver side header around to the shock sticking out.
 
When I put Doug's on my duster, we spent 4 hours trying to get them in on driver's side. THEN, we discovered that the last pipe was supposed to be removed from the collector BEFORE installing the front three pipes. After the front 3 bolted in, only then does pipe 4 go in around the torsion bar and back in to the collector.. Took 15 min..

Dougs with a removable tube??? Must have been a REALLY old set of headers.

tti come apart. Current dougs offerings do not.
 
Dougs with a removable tube??? Must have been a REALLY old set of headers.

tti come apart. Current dougs offerings do not.
Yep, Doug Thorley's, circa 1972!
I also have a set up Hedmans here right now, brand new and the tube is also separate..
 
Last time I did an A body swap with headers, I remember dropping the passenger side header in right along with the engine, as in I lowered the engine hoist with one hand and guided the header with the other. I rtemember leaving the drivers side in, as the steering goes through it, (Headman hedders)I have since went back to 340 Manifolds, they make life easier. Not Race car, I know, but headers are a PITA on these cars.
 
sorry to hear that bro, but its part of the game ...at least its a Mopar could be one of those "other cars" long live the mopar. amen
 
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