So how about that, front wheel flew off!

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IMO, I don't like what I'm seeing on the last photo. Looks to me the lug is too short. Anyone else?
 
This is how much it tightens down with the wheel on
 

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I believe this is how many threads it's catching while having the wheel on. Reason being is I'm looking at the clean shiny threads and then the not so shiny threads.
 

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If I count the threads right it looks like 11, makes about .600" engagement so you're probably good although I'd prefer more. Make sure you recheck torque whether you use Loctite or not. One other thing. Look at the new and old washer on the two lug nut picture. Notice how the old one is beveled. Are your wheels showing a bevel also?
 
Yes the wheels do have a bevel.

Should I buy different lug nuts? If so from who? How can I find length of the lug nut?
 
Is that what you mean by the bevel? It seems to be there so the washer on the lug will fit nicely
 

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I believe the wheel is 1 1/8 thick where the lug nut goes.

That is the length of the lug nuts
 

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It seems to only catch by 3/4. So the wheel length is a close 1 1/8, the stud is about 1", the lug nut catches on 3/4.

So deduct 1/8 from the wheel because the wheel stud is only 1", the lug but catches on 3/4.

I'd say the lug nut catches about 65% of wheel stud.

About 5/8.
 
I bet those crager mags would fit perfect! Thanks for the link that website is very cost effective
 
Andre68 said:
Is that what you mean by the bevel? It seems to be there so the washer on the lug will fit nicely
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Hard to see a bevel in the hub picture.
The thin washer I don't like. I think I would have the wheel c'bores machined for the OD of the new heavier 5/32" thick washer at uniform depth. Careful not to go too deep and allow the lug to bottom out before reaching torque.
Also verify that .680" shank diameter.
 
How do I verify the shank diameter? Would the thin washers be bad? With the lug nut being 1" long, if I bore out the bevel won't that make it either bottom out or get real close to it?
 
If the "snout" of the hub fits tightly in the center thru hole of the wheel, it is "hub-centric". If loose there, you rely on the lugs centering the wheel, i.e. "lug-centric".
 
Daves69 said:
I've learned years ago when I bought my new Weld's to re-torque the lugs after a few miles. Just heard some clunking noise from the rear. Found all four wheels were loose and I know they were torqued properly when I put them on. Fortunately I have long studs on the rear and the wheel didn't come off.
Click to expand...

Guilty of this. Ordered a set of Draglites,for my Datsun 620. Ran it down,with an impact wrench (19,and a know it all...). Of course, they backed off.(around the block.). I got damn lucky.
 
Daves69 said:
IMO, I don't like what I'm seeing on the last photo. Looks to me the lug is too short. Anyone else?
Click to expand...

Yes,they are short. On these vintage mags,the sleeve on the lug nut,should be flush with the bolt hole on the backside of the wheel.
 
You need to measure the thickness,of the hole,order an accordingly same size shank size."Shank length),is the length,of the lugnut after the six sided part. If on a budget,"Mr.Lugnut" from Jegs is nice & affordable.
 
Thanks for the input! Got those crager lug nuts! I want to say they fit perfect
 
When I install wheel studs.. I push it in through the back with moly greese used a larger wheel nut that won't catch the threads and a large washer. Then the stock acorn nut reversed and torqued it down till it seated.
 
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