So how about that, front wheel flew off!

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[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WnRGyj0hgXM"]Removing wheel studs - YouTube[/ame]
 
I didn't notice that anyone mentioned that your front disk brakes are from a 1973+ car.

Also, I assume you checked whether your studs are LH or RH threads.


He said "Front end out of a 73 duster, k member, disc brakes, rear drums, steering linkage, steering column, rear end. heck i feel the whole drive train might be out of the 73 duster!" in his first post.

Mopar never used left handed threads on the 1973 up cars.
 
So don't use a wire wheel but a brush? I'm gonna buy new wheel studs for the wheel that came off, but just to be safe I'm gonna clean up all the rest

Also it isn't a crack in the wheel that was just like some road debris or something, it just has that chip. Is it still good? Like can I still use that wheel?
 
So don't use a wire wheel but a brush? I'm gonna buy new wheel studs for the wheel that came off, but just to be safe I'm gonna clean up all the rest

Also it isn't a crack in the wheel that was just like some road debris or something, it just has that chip. Is it still good? Like can I still use that wheel?

Wheel should be OK. I'd round off any sharp edges.

You'll want to re-torque those new studs and nuts several times to make sure they seat.
 
It happens. I almost lost a wheel back in high school, same deal, repaired a flat and was in a hurry to get to school, never torqued them. I was down to 2 of 4 lug nuts so
i took one off the rear and made it 3 on 2 wheels. I HAD to get to school, one more ditch day and I would have been bounced!

Oh yeah, I was in Tijuana partying back in the day waiting in line to get into a bar. A TJ taxi (about a 78 LTD if I can recall) came rolling around the corner and the wheel came right off toward us. I opened the door to the bar and it rolled right in and stopped after hitting a bar stool. True story.
 
Here's some pics of the new wheel studs and the lug nuts. They seated down all the way, it all seems good. Just thought i would post some photos. I was wondering if the minor damage to the rotor would be an issue? It's a little flat on 1 side of the rotor where it hit the floor, not a crazy dent, but a little flat. I hope I can still use it, I'm a little broke now hahah
 

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Chances are your OK. I think I'd put a mic on it to see if rotor bulged for some reason, possibly a crack you might not be able to see. If you feel pulsing in the pedal that you didn't have before it may have warped on you. Also check the tie rod end for play.
 
heres more pics
 

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Best thing is to just try it and see what happens. It could throw your balance off and cause a vibration as you are driving but to the naked eye it doesn't look that bad. It isn't in to where the pads run.
 
Chances are your OK. If you feel pulsing in the pedal that you didn't have before it may have warped on you.

X2 on that.

May have created a high spot but it would be impossible to tell with just a visual inspection.

You already have the hub off so why not take it to the machine shop and have them check it on a brake lathe to see if it has a high spot or not?

Or you could always assemble the hub and brake on the car and then rotate the hub by hand and see if you feel any increase in drag when you rotate the spot through the brake pads. Not very exact but it should give you an indication if you have a potential problem or not.
 
Unrelated to the original post, those rotors look TERRIBLE (the finish, pitted, rusty) Can they be turned? (still thick enough?)
 
I know they're ugly but they're just before minimum turn. They guy at oreillys said if he turned them that legally he would not be allowed to give them back to me. So I just took some 150 garnet paper and went at it
 
guy at oreillys said if he turned them that legally he would not be allowed to give them back to me.

First of all that is absolute BS. There is no such law. It might be "company policy" not to turn them under, but no private company is allowed to keep private property in that way.

You might get lucky........might be able to run them a bit and "polish them up" LOL

Me? I'd turn em.
 
Yea I'm gonna try running them and if I get any vibration or what not I will get them turned
 
The rotors look OK to me. I have re-used many without turning, even when they had a wavy surface. The pad just wears to match it. Indeed, the waves give you a little more friction area. I wouldn't worry about the flat spot, and can't even make it out in the photo. Those "mag lugs" can be a bit tricky to torque since they can bind on the outside before fully seated. I am guessing something like that happened. I know that Cragar wheels (not yours) need mag nuts that are slightly thinner. Insure that your nuts fit loose enough in the wheel holes to easily turn. Even then, if even one stud is slightly out of position, it could cause all the nuts to rub on the side.
 
I always drove them out with a BFH. To put new ones in, I would reverse one of the nuts and pull the new stud thru a hub or axle that way. You want to make darn sure that it pulls thru straight if you install them that way. Good Luck
 
After you get it back together, thread a lug all the way down on the stud, in one of the pictures it looked like the lug had like a 1/2" until it seated.
The rims you have are uni-lug and requires the lug to engauge almost all the threads to center the wheel.
You can also stick a lug in the rim off the car and see how much room you have left, should be about 1/8" shy to the mounting flange of the wheel.
 
The rims you have are uni-lug.

Those are most certainly NOT uni lug wheels.

Unilug washer and nut

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Unilug type wheel

09_z%2Bet_2_uni_lug_wheels%2Brestore.jpg
 
From experience don't buy cheap mag lug nuts from the local auto parts store. I bought a set and when I went to torque them to spec they snapped the head off a few. After inspecting the broken ones they where cheap casted with a helicoil insert. After that I bought good quality ones from a respectable tire shop.
 
Alright well I put the new wheel studs in and bought a set of mag wheel lug nuts. I used blue thread locker and torqued then to spec, 65 lbs I believe?

I noticed that the lug nuts will tighten down all the way on the stud, almost bottom out.

When I put the wheel on the wheel studs, they only seem to get to about 1 cm or less to be even with the surface of the wheel. They do not protrude through the wheel stud holes on the mag wheels.

When I put the lug nut through the mag wheel, it seem that they only get to about 65-75% through the hole on the wheel.

On one of the pictures it almost looks like the lug but grabs about 80% of the threads on the wheel studs.

I take it everything is okay. I'm just a little traumatized after the incident that I thought I would double check! I'll post pics
 
Picture of mag wheel on wheel studs. As stated they get to like, less than a CM from being flush even with the mag wheel
 

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Pic of old lug nuts and new ones. I had the old ones on the front. I bet those where bad.
 

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