Stop in for a cup of coffee

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That was kind of uneventful. .177 pellet wont puncture can.
Until you diesel it. Add a few drops of oil and it gives a little more kick..was about to go turn something down in the lathe...
 
Well, Back in the saddle, so to speak, picked up the neighbors Hyundai, to check no start conditions...More BEER Please....
 
So i didnt turn off my phone. Have accomplished nothing in the last couple hours.
 
Lower ball joint on toyota is a beast.
My ball joint press is stretched to its limit,and pounding with a 4 lb hammer trying to get it to budge. No go.
So i put 3/4” impact on it, pounded until it stopped and left for lunch.
 
ZMan67S said:
I just got the 1967
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I wish I had the room, and some justification...
Having the books in the binders is sweet. They won't get quite as beat up.
Let us know what edition you ended up with. The dealership I used to visit to get part numbers had the '67 Barracuda supplement. That had the illustrations and p/n for a lot of the trim and weatherstrip.
 
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A little discovery today. The reason for the notch cut in the mini-starter.
Sharp steel threads will cut through aluminum. :rolleyes:
A few minutes with an abrasive disk pad at 10,000 rpm contoured some clearance.
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So much for the mini-starter being a great fit. Ignorance was bliss. LOL.
Steering the center position is much smoother now. :)
Well, it will be when the steering column goes back in...
 
Hey folks got one of them dumb *** questions for the crew. Let’s say some dumb ***, un-observant moron installed his torsion bars on the wrong sides. As in the one marked L on the right and the one marked with an R on the left. Are the bars now trashed or can the be swapped to the proper sides? Asking for a friend (I wish) :BangHead:
 
MomsDuster said:
Hey folks got one of them dumb *** questions for the crew. Let’s say some dumb ***, un-observant moron installed his torsion bars on the wrong sides. As in the one marked L on the right and the one marked with an R on the left. Are the bars now trashed or can the be swapped to the proper sides? Asking for a friend (I wish) :BangHead:
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I don't see why they would be trashed. Its just a piece of elastic steel. As long as it hasn't been bent or twisted beyond yield or has any nicks or cuts in them, should be fine.
 
PS. I noticed the shop manual mentions removing the upper bump stops. So you may need to do that depending on how much clocking is in them.
 
Mattax said:
I don't see why they would be trashed. Its just a piece of elastic steel. As long as it hasn't been bent or twisted beyond yield or has any nicks or cuts in them, should be fine.
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Thanks, that’s the best news I’ve had all week!
 
If they were used I could see an issue swapping directions of rotation perhaps. We didn't mark the new high $ Sway-A-Way bars in the racing dunes buggies unless we had special plans or special cuts for each side. On the first install that is, once used always returned to the same side.
 
Unconventional said:
If they were used I could see an issue swapping directions of rotation perhaps. We didn't mark the new high $ Sway-A-Way bars in the racing dunes buggies unless we had special plans or special cuts for each side. On the first install that is, once used always returned to the same side.
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Sounds like a good practice.
Theoretically I don't know if it really matters but my gut feeling is not to bend metal things in reverse directions.
 
Mattax said:
Sounds like a good practice.
Theoretically I don't know if it really matters but my gut feeling is not to bend metal things in reverse directions.
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Every now and again someone in the crowd would break one. But not knowing it's use history it was difficult to determine a cause, unless there was a big nick in it.
 
MomsDuster said:
Hey folks got one of them dumb *** questions for the crew. Let’s say some dumb ***, un-observant moron installed his torsion bars on the wrong sides. As in the one marked L on the right and the one marked with an R on the left. Are the bars now trashed or can the be swapped to the proper sides? Asking for a friend (I wish) :BangHead:
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just flip the car. It'll be fine. :eek:
 
Ok, stupid technical question of the evening.

I changed the timing in my car at the request of Edelbrock due to a major bog (almost kill the car bog going WOT) with the new AVS2 carb. They got all my specs of the car and according to them I had way to much initial timing (20*) and wanted me to change it to 14* initial and add more mechanical from 14* (Im now at 18* mechanical)=32*total. Timing curve starts @ 1400 and all in by 2500. So I tried it, the bog is still slightly there but nothing like it was, which is way better. However I noticed my engine temp is about 10* warmer. It was 180* and now 190*.

Im stupid when it comes to timing. Thoughts?
 
Mattax said:
Then its time to get Smart!
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:lol: I've read and read, but its really the one thing on the car that I have never really understood. What I can tell you is when I had my engine broke in on the dyno they found max HP at 18* initial with my 14* total mechanical. Im not wanting max HP, but drive-ability.
 
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