Stop in for a cup of coffee

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zkx14 said:
Ouch $. I know they ain't cheep, but never saw a price. Generally I heard if they aren't rare, they aren't worth doing though. I don't think solder wills stick to the pot metal. Don't know what they use for filler. The ones for my Duster are repopped for $400+ for the pair. I found nice used ones. Bought several tail lights and put together all the best parts. Then sold everything I had left from them at Carlisle. Probably ended up with less than $100 in the 2 lights I kept.

Good Morning
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or is this just bogus ?

Bill
 
lilfontleroy said:
I cant figure out why you keep coming back. Son if I had a hot number like that waiting on me in Thailand and was in your shoes. 10-4 over and out,
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Yeahh...Well I have a house, and some responsibilities here. But i do plan on being there every winter, and summers here. My responsibilities arent as much, since i rented out my house, and moved into the Garage Apartment. She will be coming here from Viet Nam to spend next summer with me here. Yeahh. it takes that long to get a Visa from Viet Nam......:wtf:
 
Bills65Dart said:
or is this just bogus ?

Bill
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So is that a special alloy they are selling that has lower melting point? Notice their quick and easy process failed to show the sanding it took to reshape after the soldering. LOL And of course it still needs plated after that. I wonder if you completely cover with solder, could you buff it and clearcoat?
 
zkx14 said:
So is that a special alloy they are selling that has lower melting point? Notice their quick and easy process failed to show the sanding it took to reshape after the soldering. LOL And of course it still needs plated after that. I wonder if you completely cover with solder, could you buff it and clearcoat?
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No idea, just searching for options, and considering them. It clearly would look good with tail light bezels that looked brand new instead of 54 year old and pitted.

Bill

I looked up the alloy, Super Alloy 1, Super Alloy 1 Multi-Metal and Pot-Metal Solder | Muggy Weld
 
Bills65Dart said:
No idea, just searching for options, and considering them. It clearly would look good with tail light bezels that looked brand new instead of 54 year old and pitted.

Bill

I looked up the alloy, Super Alloy 1, Super Alloy 1 Multi-Metal and Pot-Metal Solder | Muggy Weld
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I think I have a pack of rods somewhere that I got years ago. No idea what brand. Was supposed to work on pot metal and aluminum. Don't think I ever tried them.
 
man, the hits do come in force don't they? First my father in law's cancer news, that was a rough dinner last night, now I just learned my grandmother is expected to pass any time and is on her death bed.
 
I used them on a motorcycle case on my Trials bike Maybe I can get a picture but it turned out to be much harder than the Aluminum side cover and that was many years ago. I bet it could be buffed to a near chrome finish. I can try to get a picture and it has been sitting for 7 years still shiny but does not match the rest of the cover. Tough stuff.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
man, the hits do come in force don't they? First my father in law's cancer news, that was a rough dinner last night, now I just learned my grandmother is expected to pass any time and is on her death bed.
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I am sorry to hear this. I lost my dad in 2006, and I miss him more and more as I get older.

Bill
 
dukeboy_318 said:
man, the hits do come in force don't they? First my father in law's cancer news, that was a rough dinner last night, now I just learned my grandmother is expected to pass any time and is on her death bed.
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cross.jpg


Prayers for all
 
dartnabout said:
I used them on a motorcycle case on my Trials bike Maybe I can get a picture but it turned out to be much harder than the Aluminum side cover and that was many years ago. I bet it could be buffed to a near chrome finish. I can try to get a picture and it has been sitting for 7 years still shiny but does not match the rest of the cover. Tough stuff.
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I figure you would need to do the entire surface so its same metal to get consistent appearance.
 
Rainy Day Auto said:
So I have another non running car that I decided to take a look at today. After the dart went out last week I started thinking about this stuff more.

So I have a 68 fury with a 383. I electronic converted shortly after I bought it. Oct 22 will be one year I have had it so all this is pretty recent.

After electronic converting it, I drove it around the farm, never plated it, just drove around the yard and did some occasional doughnuts.

End of may comes and I am driving it around the yard and pluhhhhh it dies out and I can't get it restarted.

So i parked it and the summer came and went. Then today i tried to mess with it to get it going again.

It cranks and cranks but no start.

It's getting 8 volts to coil. But no spark.

I did notice one strange thing. I left the ignition on because I used a remote starter button, so I just disconnected the battery everytime I made connections or removed a part.

One time I connected the battery and I saw and heard a spark from the coil with the coil cable grounded to a spark tester. So I put the battery cable off and on the terminal a few times real fast and everytime it would spark.

So this tells me the the coil is good just not being triggered.

So I put a volt meter across the distributor connector and cranked it and saw a open and close action which indicates the reluctor in the distributor is doing what it's supposed to.

I am thinking ECU box or poor connection somewhere. To be continued because would you know, ran out of time

View attachment 1715404715
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Voltage regulator?
 
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