Stop in for a cup of coffee
- Thread starter toolmanmike
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Ddaddy
Just doing what I do
I bet you $1 he doesn’t. Listen to the video, he never hit the throttle to kick it down off the high idle.
I forgot the choke should be open as well (or working properly) but that should be pretty obvious. May be not.
Ddaddy
Just doing what I do
Obvious and Chris are two words that don’t go together.
Ok, this should be similar to what you have... I included the original pic first, then the one with the highlights of what you need to look at...
Here's the choke hammer view from the top...
Choke "hammer" from the top... This is what opens and closes the choke... There are steps on the other side where the choke idle screw rides and as it warms up and you give it a quick hit of the gas, it will kick down gradually as the engine warms up... It can't kick down until you open the throttle a little and take pressure off of the linkage...
Here's the bottom view showing the choke idle screw, it rides on the bottom of the choke hammer on the opposite side of the 'hammer'... This is what rides on the different steps and determines how far the choke is open...
I was thinking that........
Nice pictures....
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Thanks Karl. I’ll check as well. Lots to learn I do. Which is the whole point of this car to begin with.
Here's another carb without the electric choke, but you can see the main parts better to see how they work...
This is a shot with the choke in the closed position... You can see on the right side that the choke idle screw is in contact with the highest step on the idle hammer cam... This is not an electric choke carb, so there are only two steps on the cam on the back side of the 'hammer', the electric choke hammer has more steps on the cam... On the left side, you can see that the hammer is in the upward position... On the electric choke the bimetallic spring opens gradually as the engine warms up and causes the hammer to lower gradually as the engine heats up and you give the throttle a quick goose...
Here is a picture of the hammer with the choke in the open position...
Look at the circle on the left side and see the hammer in the down position... Then look at the circles on the right and see that the choke adjustment screw is no longer on any of the ramps for the choke idle cam on the back of the hammer...
You can only adjust the choke idle screws with the carb off the car as there is too much in the way, so you want to study up and know what you need to do to minimize how many times you need to remove the carb and adjust the choke idle screw...
The choke idle will 'override' the warm idle screws on the throttle side when the choke is engaged... Only when the engine is warm and the choke is disengaged will the warm idle screws on the driver's side be in play..
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BUT BEFORE YOU DO ANY ADJUSTMENTS:
Make sure that you have the choke hooked up to a good 12 volt source... DO NOT HOOK IT UP TO THE COIL + , that will only give 6 volts!!!
I like to hook up the positive 12 volt wire to the input side of the ballast resistor... It's easy to tell, just disconnect both wires from the ballast resistor and put a test light on the negative side of the battery... Then probe each ballast wire connector with the ignition switch in the on position and see which side makes the test light turn on - that is the input side of the ballast resistor... I like to use a flat blade piggyback connector and connect the electric choke positive wire to that one... Then you will have a good 12 volt source when the ignition is in the on position...
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Play with the choke butterfly and the hammer on the choke to get a feel for how it works... You may have to open the throttle plates a little to be able to move the choke and choke hammer...
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dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
The choke thing?
If you need any advice when looking at it, PM me so I can give you my phone number and talk you through it... If I need to take pictures to show you, I can post them up here in this thread to show you what to do...
The choke butterfly should be closed when cranking, then open about 5/16" when the car fires... You can measure the gap on the butterfly with a 5/16" drill bit on the side of the butterfly that opens upward to make sure you are in the ball park...
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dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Uh I may have found part of that problem... I have it tapped to the coil positive...
I forgot the ballast steps it down to 6 volts while running. Duh
The blades. A slot in each bore, should be a square showing below throttle plate,not a rectangle. You set idle with timing and mixture using the vacuum gauge.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
You know one good thing about me fumbling all thru this, it’s been a nice distraction from the world events.
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
I think hoppy sent me a Holley tuning book too, I’ll check it out tomorrow. Thanks
The first thing to verify on the electric choke is to make sure it's hooked up to a good 12 volt source that's keyed into the ignition on/run position...
The secondaries are probably hanging up on the adapter. Half open.
The primary throttle blades are contolled by the warm idle screw... Start with that just touching the lever on the primaries... Turn it in one to 1 1/2 turns to start out with... You don't want to have it out too many turns as then you expose too much of the transfer slots which can cause a bog...
Don't worry about the jets right now... You are not in where the jets are affecting anything...
Right now we need to tune in the choke and idle system...
You don't get into the jets until you start opening the throttle and exposing the transfer slots... The jets control the main metering system in a Holley...
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They usually run pretty good out of the box. Don't mess with the carb unless you are sure what you are trying to accomplish...
It is a brand new, never ran Carb. The choke could be an issue tho...
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
dukeboy440
Well-Known Member
Until it can staying running for longer than 30 seconds, I’m not opening the carb up and changing anything drastic.
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