Stop in for a cup of coffee

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krazykuda said:
That's the other way to check clearances... A little more advanced as it's more difficult to use a dial bore gauge to measure the bearings when they are torqued...

Plastic gauge is simpler for the average garage engine build...
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Yeah I decided to run to Napa earlier to get some to do the rods. Mainly cause I didn’t think to do the rod journals before I torqued the crank in and I didn’t wanna take it back out lol
 
dukeboy_318 said:
The only question I have really is in regards to the rod caps. The king bearings came in two packs, but they’re not marked too or bottom and the numbers stamped on them are the same on both packs. Does it matter which is too or bottom as long as the anchors go to the anchor slots?
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Are the bearing shells identical??? Are the oil squirt hole notches in both of the bearing shells or not...

I've seen bearing shells where one set has oil squirt holes and the other doesn't... Put the shell with the oil squirt hole notch in the cap and the one with no oil squirt hole in the rod if both shells do not have the notch...

If both shells have the notch for the squirt hole, then it doesn't matter...

When you look closely, the oil squirt hole is in the cap and not the rod, they usually machine a channel in the rod cap for the oil and not the rod, so you want the bearing for the cap to have the notch for sure...
 
krazykuda said:
Are the bearing shells identical??? Are the oil squirt hole notches in both of the bearing shells or not...

I've seen bearing shells where one set has oil squirt holes and the other doesn't... Put the shell with the oil squirt hole notch in the cap and the one with no oil squirt hole in the rod if both shells do not have the notch...

If both shells have the notch for the squirt hole, then it doesn't matter...

When you look closely, the oil squirt hole is in the cap and not the rod, they usually machine a channel in the rod cap for the oil and not the rod, so you want the bearing for the cap to have the notch for sure...
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Both pieces have the hole and I lined those up the groove in cap
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Yeah I decided to run to Napa earlier to get some to do the rods. Mainly cause I didn’t think to do the rod journals before I torqued the crank in and I didn’t wanna take it back out lol
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Before you finish torque the mains and rods, drizzle STP or Motor Honey on the journals and make sure to fully coat the whole journal and shell... This will keep it lubed while you turn it over and build it and also will keep it lubed for first start...

I've never primed the oil system in my engines and had good luck making sure the cylinders and all bearings were lubed with the heavy oil treatments for first start... If you don't believe that stuff will keep it lubed, put some motor honey on your bare hands and then wash your hands in the sink and see how hard it is to wash that stuff off.... It sticks to your fingers better than snot...
 
krazykuda said:
Before you finish torque the mains and rods, drizzle STP or Motor Honey on the journals and make sure to fully coat the whole journal and shell... This will keep it lubed while you turn it over and build it and also will keep it lubed for first start...

I've never primed the oil system in my engines and had good luck making sure the cylinders and all bearings were lubed with the heavy oil treatments for first start... If you don't believe that stuff will keep it lubed, put some motor honey on your bare hands and then wash your hands in the sink and see how hard it is to wash that stuff off.... It sticks to your fingers better than snot...
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Even if I prelubed it with Lucas Oil moly engine assembly lube?
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Even if I prelubed it with Lucas Oil moly engine assembly lube?
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I've always used STP or Casite Motor Honey...

I've never used any other kind of assembly lube... The STP and Motor Honey stick well and keep everything lubed until the oil pump catches and fills the engine....
 
missing linc said:
Engine shop I used to deal with swore by STP, that was all they used for assembly lube, have to say it worked well for me.
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dukeboy_318 said:
The engine oil treatment? That’s what I used in my 451 and holy hell was that sticky.
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When I was a teenager, I worked at a 10 minute oil change place... One of my coworkers saw a demonstration at a car show where they compared STP to Motor Honey by putting them in a bowl and using a kitchen blender... The STP went so far up the beater of the blender where the Motor Honey climbed up the shaft...

So I lean toward the Motor Honey if I have a choice, but STP will still do the job....
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Both pieces have the hole and I lined those up the groove in cap
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Groovy...
cool.gif
 
An old-time engine builder told me when your sibling isn't all you want to use is oral that you'll be using in the engine because it says that if used too thick for oral you get some air some false readings
 
krazykuda said:
When I was a teenager, I worked at a 10 minute oil change place... One of my coworkers saw a demonstration at a car show where they compared STP to Motor Honey by putting them in a bowl and using a kitchen blender... The STP went so far up the beater of the blender where the Motor Honey climbed up the shaft...

So I lean toward the Motor Honey if I have a choice, but STP will still do the job....
Click to expand...
**** it, I’ll hit it with both, not like it can hurt
 
Mopar Tim said:
An old-time engine builder told me when your sibling isn't all you want to use is oral that you'll be using in the engine because it says that if used too thick for oral you get some air some false readings
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Wtf???
 
Mopar Tim said:
An old-time engine builder told me when your sibling isn't all you want to use is oral that you'll be using in the engine because it says that if used too thick for oral you get some air some false readings
Click to expand...
Um Tim, don’t drink bong water before typing lol
 
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