Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Should always start in the middle, installing pistons................


It doesn't make a difference to me...

I usually start with #1 & #2 and work my way back... You put the crank journal up when the block is upside down and shoot both pistons that go on that journal, then the next journal, etc... You install opposite pistons together while you have the crank journal at BDC and can access both rods to tighten the bolts....

Always go back and double check torque on mains and rods before you put the oil pan on just to make sure they are all tight...

Measure twice and the engine won't blow up....
 
It doesn't make a difference to me...

I usually start with #1 & #2 and work my way back... You put the crank journal up when the block is upside down and shoot both pistons that go on that journal, then the next journal, etc... You install opposite pistons together while you have the crank journal at BDC and can access both rods to tighten the bolts....

Always go back and double check torque on mains and rods before you put the oil pan on just to make sure they are all tight...

Measure twice and the engine won't blow up....
I don’t know, I could measure 40 times and with my luck it’s still blow up haha.
 
Stupid question you have the rods in the right positions for the oil holes right?
Yes sir. The balance shop was even kind enough to stamp each one and mark the direction for me too. Even put the weight of each on them too!
 
And put some chocks under them wheels! Maybe some pillows in case it tips over...
 
It’s not, the engine is rotated 90 degrees from the top. The arrow is on top when the block is rotated back straight up. I have it rotated so I can guide the rod down thru while pushing the pistons


Get some 3/8" fuel hose and cut 2" - 3" pieces, then put the pieces over the threads for the rods while you install the pistons to keep the rod bolts from scratching/damaging/nicking the crank journal... If you make the hose a couple inches taller than the rod bolts, then you can use the hose to help guide the rod over the journal...

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Remove the hose with needle nosed pliers when the rod is bottomed against the crank... Make sure the anchor slot is pointing outward toward the outside of the block and the oil squirt holes point toward the center of the engine... The oil squirt holes oil the opposite cylinder....

Always match the anchor slot on the rod to the same side of the cap - say to yourself "anchor slot to anchor slot" when you put the caps on the rods...

Make sure to rotate the rings before installing the pistons to make sure they all spin freely... Then after you verify the rings are free to spin, then orient the ring gaps a minimum of 90° apart or 180° for maximum sealing... Orient the ring gaps for the two compression rings and also the thin oil rings so they are 90° or more apart from each other...


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Chris, read through my how to install pistons... Yes, it's a small block in my write-up, but assembling a short block is similar, the procedure that I explain can apply to any block, crank, and pistons.... Short blocks are short blocks, just a little different geometry, but the basic process for assembling a crank-pistons-rods are the same for any engine...

How to Rebuild a Small Block Part 7: Install Pistons in Block
 
I couldnt see much cross hatch in the cylinder...
 
The book has you put a piston in holes 1,2, 7 & 8 to check deck height squareness. It also says to snug up caps but not torque yet.

if this is a bad way, I’ll do it your way to be safe. I kind of trust you all more


Are you gonna plastic gauge the bearings????

It's better to verify that the bearings have proper clearance now than after you install the engine and have oil pressure issues....

Follow my assembly procedure in my how to install piston thread, plastic gauge one piston, clean and oil the crank journal and rod bearing, then torque to spec.... Then do the piston opposite to that cylinder... Tighten them as you go, don't leave them loose - what if you forget to torque them???

Install one piston at a time, plastic gauge it, then clean the plastic gauge off, push the piston down about 1" and drizzle STP or Motor Honey on the bearings and journal, then put the cap back on and torque to spec... That way each piston is tightened as you go and less opportunity to leave one loose...

Only torque the pistons as little as possible, every time you tighten them it stretches the bolt a little... After 5 clamp cycles the rod bolts may stretch too much and get weaker, so no more than 5 tightenings on each bolt....

Then after all the pistons are done, go back and check the torque on all of the rods and crank bolts and mark them with a paint pen or something to indicate that they were double checked... Checking the torque will not stretch the bolt or count as another clamp cycle... It only counts when you loosen the nuts and then retorque them....
 
Stupid question you have the rods in the right positions for the oil holes right?


The oil holes point to the center of the engine, or opposite cylinder to that bank... The anchor slots should be on the outside opposite the oil squirt holes...

Anchor slots go together on the same side of rod and cap... Or main and cap... Always match anchor slots together...
 
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Are you gonna plastic gauge the bearings????

It's better to verify that the bearings have proper clearance now than after you install the engine and have oil pressure issues....

Follow my assembly procedure in my how to install piston thread, plastic gauge one piston, clean and oil the crank journal and rod bearing, then torque to spec.... Then do the piston opposite to that cylinder... Tighten them as you go, don't leave them loose - what if you forget to torque them???

Install one piston at a time, plastic gauge it, then clean the plastic gauge off, push the piston down about 1" and drizzle STP or Motor Honey on the bearings and journal, then put the cap back on and torque to spec... That way each piston is tightened as you go and less opportunity to leave one loose...

Only torque the pistons as little as possible, every time you tighten them it stretches the bolt a little... After 5 clamp cycles the rod bolts may stretch too much and get weaker, so no more than 5 tightenings on each bolt....

Then after all the pistons are done, go back and check the torque on all of the rods and crank bolts and mark them with a paint pen or something to indicate that they were double checked... Checking the torque will not stretch the bolt or count as another clamp cycle... It only counts when you loosen the nuts and then retorque them....

I used a dial bore gauge and a micrometer, I got .0018 difference on the mains, that’s with the bearings in and caps torqued to the spec called for by ARP.

the only thing I did different than your link you posted earlier was the dial bore gauge and the use of heat shrink tubing over the rod bolts when sliding them down. I don’t have the rings in yet. Gonna do that later.
 
The oil holes point to the center of the engine, or opposite cylinder to that bank... The anchor slots should be on the outside opposite the oil squirt holes...

Anchor slots go together on the same side of rod and cap... Or main and cap...
The only question I have really is in regards to the rod caps. The king bearings came in two packs, but they’re not marked too or bottom and the numbers stamped on them are the same on both packs. Does it matter which is too or bottom as long as the anchors go to the anchor slots?
 
I used a dial bore gauge and a micrometer, I got .0018 difference on the mains, that’s with the bearings in and caps torqued to the spec called for by ARP.

the only thing I did different than your link you posted earlier was the dial bore gauge and the use of heat shrink tubing over the rod bolts when sliding them down. I don’t have the rings in yet. Gonna do that later.
What color heat shrink?
 
I used a dial bore gauge and a micrometer, I got .0018 difference on the mains, that’s with the bearings in and caps torqued to the spec called for by ARP.

the only thing I did different than your link you posted earlier was the dial bore gauge and the use of heat shrink tubing over the rod bolts when sliding them down. I don’t have the rings in yet. Gonna do that later.


That's the other way to check clearances... A little more advanced as it's more difficult to use a dial bore gauge to measure the bearings when they are torqued...

Plastic gauge is simpler for the average garage engine build...
 
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