Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Was pretty wet and dismal out when I woke up from overnight rain. Sun is out a bit now so I guess I will get out and do something. Should go get some lumber for the shed work, but need the wife's car and she has an appointment in about an hour. Probably do that tomorrow. Guess I should check supplies, so I don't buy more of stuff I already have...
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I’ll sum it up, Polaras electrical issues are 98 percent shorted out.
Click to expand...
You can get by without a NSS but it is highly recommended. I have a couple buddies that ran their car through the back of their garage because theirs's didn't work.
 
Trailer is done. Now to drag it out and clean up. Have to roll some oil on the deck after i get it out.
 
shittyslant6 said:
Now I just need to find a 1-1/2 inch fuel gauge and my cluster will be finished.
Oddly enough, the only gauge that works in my car is the ammeter. so I don't need a volts gauge, just a fuel one since its dead.
But now I know what to look at. Thanks!
Click to expand...
Just a silly question, but have you verified it’s the gauge and not a sender or wiring/connection issue?
 
MomsDuster said:
Just a silly question, but have you verified it’s the gauge and not a sender or wiring/connection issue?
Click to expand...
yes, I tested everything when I first got it and everything was dead when It got to the cluster/gauge.
Too much money for me to pop in a new cluster right now so I am just going to put in these gauges. (since the oil pressure was an idiot light anyway.)
 
Unconventional said:
Bosch gots the whole panel with gauges for 50 .. The 3 little ones
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I've been looking more into those now after tooljunkie reminded me that Bosch existed.
I found some that are 25.00 on ebay. also, I think that my local scratch and dent automotive store has some for real cheap.
 
toolmanmike said:
You can get by without a NSS but it is highly recommended. I have a couple buddies that ran their car through the back of their garage because theirs's didn't work.
Click to expand...
I’ve got one on overnight order. Using @Mattax tip, I checked the NSS at the trans, it is showing OC there too. Adjusted the cables and put a tiny smear of electrical grease on the end of the NSS and tightened it back down, took it out, definitely made contact. Cleaned up, reinstalled and still an OC.


But now I’m stumped again. Bypassing it definitely lets it try to turn over on the key now. But it clicks like the battery is dead, battery on charger overnight, showing 12.7 bolts currently. However, it turns over again just fine with a screwdriver arching things.
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I’ll sum it up, Polaras electrical issues are 98 percent shorted out.
Click to expand...
So you could say you're well grounded!
:rofl::rofl::rofl:

shittyslant6 said:
yes, I tested everything when I first got it and everything was dead when It got to the cluster/gauge.
Too much money for me to pop in a new cluster right now so I am just going to put in these gauges. (since the oil pressure was an idiot light anyway.)
Click to expand...
Is the IVR getting power? Is the IVR working?
Oil pressure doesn't go through IVR. Me thinks its not the gages or the IVR.

shittyslant6 said:
Oddly enough, the only gauge that works in my car is the ammeter. so I don't need a volts gauge,
Click to expand...
Not odd at all. It's not related to the other gages. Its just a fat metal plate with a needle next to it that is sensitive to magnetic field created when electricity is flowing.

Oh. Unless you mean all those chicken little stories. :rolleyes:
Yea in that case it would be odd.
After all, most of our cars have burned down a few times.
:steering:
 
dukeboy_318 said:
I’ve got one on overnight order. Using @Mattax tip, I checked the NSS at the trans, it is showing OC there too. Adjusted the cables and put a tiny smear of electrical grease on the end of the NSS and tightened it back down, took it out, definitely made contact. Cleaned up, reinstalled and still an OC.


But now I’m stumped again. Bypassing it definitely lets it try to turn over on the key now. But it clicks like the battery is dead, battery on charger overnight, showing 12.7 bolts currently. However, it turns over again just fine with a screwdriver arching things.
Click to expand...

Chris. With the NSS removed, did you take the multimeter (set at ohms) on the NSS itself? I would think if there is an internal break you could confirm that.

Lets break up what happens when you try to start it.
There's a wire from the NSS terminal on the relay to a good ground connection. Yes?
The click you hear. Is it the relay or down below (soleniod) in the starter?

Finally. When you start with a screwdriver. Which two terminals do you connect?
I think I know the answer but want to be sure
 
Mattax said:
Chris. With the NSS removed, did you take the multimeter (set at ohms) on the NSS itself? I would think if there is an internal break you could confirm that.

Lets break up what happens when you try to start it.
There's a wire from the NSS terminal on the relay to a good ground connection. Yes?
The click you hear. Is it the relay or down below (soleniod) in the starter?

Finally. When you start with a screwdriver. Which two terminals do you connect?
I think I know the answer but want to be sure
Click to expand...
Let me pull the NSS again and get back to you.

I’m jumping the two terminals at the starter itself when I do it.
Uploading video
 
Mattax said:
Chris. With the NSS removed, did you take the multimeter (set at ohms) on the NSS itself? I would think if there is an internal break you could confirm that.

Lets break up what happens when you try to start it.
There's a wire from the NSS terminal on the relay to a good ground connection. Yes?
The click you hear. Is it the relay or down below (soleniod) in the starter?

Finally. When you start with a screwdriver. Which two terminals do you connect?
I think I know the answer but want to be sure
Click to expand...
Open circuit with NSS

with the key
 
Mattax said:
So you could say you're well grounded!
:rofl::rofl::rofl:


Is the IVR getting power? Is the IVR working?
Oil pressure doesn't go through IVR. Me thinks its not the gages or the IVR.


Not odd at all. It's not related to the other gages. Its just a fat metal plate with a needle next to it that is sensitive to magnetic field created when electricity is flowing.

Oh. Unless you mean all those chicken little stories. :rolleyes:
Yea in that case it would be odd.
After all, most of our cars have burned down a few times.
:steering:
Click to expand...
a few????? mine has nearly caught fire at least 6-7 times.
Me thinks most of us are masochists seeing how much we hurt ourselves working on them.:lol::lol::lol:
 
dukeboy_318 said:
Open circuit with NSS

with the key
Click to expand...

OK. I'm going to guess that there is enough power (Watts) to the starter when the solenoid is directly connected to the battery. And not enough juice getting through when going the relay.
So the question is why?
Some possibilities:
Weak battery?
Restriction in the circuit to the solenoid?
Starter failing and demanding more power?
 
Mattax said:
OK. I'm going to guess that there is enough power (Watts) to the starter when the solenoid is directly connected to the battery. And not enough juice getting through when going the relay.
So the question is why?
Some possibilities:
Weak battery?
Restriction in the circuit to the solenoid?
Starter failing and demanding more power?
Click to expand...
It sounded like it was spinning good the first few revs then clicked. I would point to the starter but I have a battery tester to eliminate that if it's a issue. There may be a bad/loose connection there somewhere. Where is the battery grounded to and do you have ground straps from the block to a good spot on the firewall? Please answer one question at a time.
 
OK. Then maybe the next most logical step is to do the same at the relay.
See if the starter turns over when connecting the solenoid to the battery terminals.
Yes a screwdriver works -
upload_2021-8-17_12-22-46.png
 
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