Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Hope the sting wasn't too bad.... Doing some planning on building a larger shed so I can get rid of the paid storage. Man overhead roller doors or garage doors are pricey. I'll have to go with home-made doors instead.
Yes they are pricey. ours was $2500 installed but I think it was a good value. Ours was a non traditional size (15x6.6) insulated and it is a Overhead Door brand. It has the dual torsion springs, 4 reinforcement struts and all that. I see Menards has some more expensive doors in the $2500 range made by Ideal (never heard of them) and you have to install them yourself and haul away your old door. At least if I have troubles I can call the local guy and because I bought it from them, I'm "on the top of his list".
 
We are, but the bank is sure funny about us doing so much work ourselves. Not sure why, but they do not like it. We have to send photos all the time of the progress. We pay for the material ourselves and do the work then submit for reimbursement from construction loan.
Glad they are letting you do it.
 
I have a Doc appointment tomorow so the wife is coming with me we will finally go to the AACA museum! I want to get into that library!
 
Well this ain’t good. No coolant or oil in the thing. I checked this just last night when it first made the pop noise and both were full. Pretty sure it’s not supposed to be mustard.

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So, there is huge confusion across all boards. Increasing vs decreasing IAB and MAB. Which makes them come in sooner and richer? I see an article where Steve Brule leaned out a 2500rpm rich condition of 12.5 afr by going from a 0.069 IAB to a 0.076. So increasing the bleed leaned it out to a 13.5 afr. Then a larger MAB leaned out the top end 0.041 to 0.045. Made power. Then from 0.045 to 0.035 which richen it back up. Lost power. But, there are huge arguments even on RFS page.

Matt, is this how you understand the circuit?
I'm just too overwhelmed with stuff, but sounds like things have gone downhill at RFS.
When there is a radical change like those just described, like .069 to .076" diameter, then we learn very little.
Something was way off in at least one of the tsts, or maybe both.

On a properly set up carb, small changes in airbleeds should produce a predictable change in fuel.
When a little bit of air is introduced to a circuit and mixes in as tiny bubbles the mixture has less density than plain fuel. It is lighter and flows quicker. It passes through restrictions downstream more easily. These are reasons why in some situations there can be more fuel flow with increasing air bleed.

When the bleed is too big then the air is no longer tiny bubble but big bubbles. These bubbles can join together to make large bubbles of air between the fuel. Then its totally unpredictable but likley will spurt unevenly.

Another factor is the fuel restriction and air bled in can't be going from laminar flow to turbulent flow. Again everything becomes unpredictable then.

This is why the old Holley's (and Carters etc) are usually the best references to work from. When carbs had to work consistantly for production vehicles, the holes were in the positions and sizes that I call the working range. We can step those up or down a little and not get wacky results.

my .02
 
Early ignition book copies, seriously hard to find past say 55
If they don't have, email or call the Philadelphia Library.
Largest public collection of automobile paper they say.
You tell em what you are looking for and they will let you know if they have it.
 
We are, but the bank is sure funny about us doing so much work ourselves. Not sure why, but they do not like it. We have to send photos all the time of the progress. We pay for the material ourselves and do the work then submit for reimbursement from construction loan.
Tell them to push away from the desk and invite them out for a walk through??
 
Thats the issue I actually need to look through the stuff. Imagine saying dodge ignition parts 1920-1955?
 
How to make mustard, Oil+ antifreeze usually = head gasket
Yep. Just hoping i didn’t destroy any bearings. It was still registering oil pressure and temperature when I pulled back in to the drive way. No puddles under it . I’m betting that faint smoke was the coolant and oil burning out from the head. Cylinder temps are only 700!degrees at idle lol
 
Thats the issue I actually need to look through the stuff. Imagine saying dodge ignition parts 1920-1955?
Do you want Dodge parts books or manufacturers books?
if they have them, they'll know. Then you can visit and look through the books.
 
Do you want Dodge parts books or manufacturers books?
if they have them, they'll know. Then you can visit and look through the books.
Mostly aftermarket books. I cant even figure out what brands are in that hoard I am bying in the spring.
 
Have a compression tester and or a coolant pressure tester?
Not anymore. My tool box got stolen by those squatters. Luckily it was the cheap box with just my diag stuff, but I lost my compression tester, battery tester, volt meter, DtRB scanner and a few others.
 
20's to 70's ignition, 20 boxes worth! Cherry pick the Mopar, then Matt wants the odd ball makes. Then Mark at Saturn wants the ford. GM prob craigslist it.

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Mostly aftermarket books. I cant even figure out what brands are in that hoard I am bying in the spring.
Maybe Mitch or your buddy up the street can help ID the brands by the numbers??

Just keep it in mind anyway. The Keystone from Harrisburg to Phila is pretty cheap.
 
Just gathering right now. Have the prestolite covered back to 35. Really dont know what I need yet. Matt has a few books and so does Mark at saturn. Just fishing right now.
 
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