Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Seems garages can never be big enough. (Yes the word garages is in there.):thumbsup:

If I recall correctly...Hoppy had his floor thicker just where the lift stands.
you can do that but from my experience pouring concrete, you'd have to do a 4x4 area under each lifter foot to ensure against cracking and that's if you have the minimum grade tensile strength concrete recommended.
 
you can do that but from my experience pouring concrete, you'd have to do a 4x4 area under each lifter foot to ensure against cracking and that's if you have the minimum grade tensile strength concrete recommended.
Yeh, I get that its a complication. Not sure How Ray's is, cause I think its a continuous slab @halifaxhops
Could do separate slab for that area. Don't think you want all one in a 30x 40 anyway. A few smaller and less likely to have cracks later. I know in the cold storage the crane runs for setting steel and roof units were thicker slabs than the rest of the floor.
 
I don't think I would go 4x4... Maybe a 4-6 x whatever strip across to handle both posts. Kinda like concrete pads for trailer landing gear in an asphalt lot.
 
I had two areas 4'x4' on each side poured 30" deep for lift pads on both sides. Do your self a favor put drains in and my biggest PIA is no running water in the shop! Even something to hook a hose up outside I would take.
 
I agree with the mezzanine idea.
I would have the benches/tools below. My compressor is in a cabinet, it really helps with noise. Also a fan to move air through cabinet to keep it from getting to hot.
 
Yeh, I get that its a complication. Not sure How Ray's is, cause I think its a continuous slab @halifaxhops
Could do separate slab for that area. Don't think you want all one in a 30x 40 anyway. A few smaller and less likely to have cracks later. I know in the cold storage the crane runs for setting steel and roof units were thicker slabs than the rest of the floor.
Thats what expansion cuts are for. the distance between those cuts depends on the thickness and grade. For example: M10 grade is going to need expansion cuts much closer than M70. We poured M70 in the 40x80, no expansion cuts and it hasn't cracked yet, 22 years later. 14 inches thick in some places.
 
morning all, I got my 69 home yesterday, wont start, in the neutral safety circuit. Looks perfect...
 
Same here, no running water. Its 100 feet away. I run a hose and fill a 50 gallon tank. Lasts most of the winter. I use it for mixing coolant and filling my small pump bottle to rinse brake dust away.
I just walk the 100 feet to wash things in the sink when needed.
 
I had two areas 4'x4' on each side poured 30" deep for lift pads on both sides. Do your self a favor put drains in and my biggest PIA is no running water in the shop! Even something to hook a hose up outside I would take.
is rain water collection legal where you're at? you could hook that up to your gutters and a sink inside, then plumb the grey water into another drum.
 
hey Tim!! bad ground?
Yes, I just "tempted" it by cutting the black/yellow wire to the starter solenoid and grounding it to the brake line at the master cylinder. Will start in any gear now, till I really fix it.
 
Yes, I just "tempted" it by cutting the black/yellow wire to the starter solenoid and grounding it to the brake line at the master cylinder. Will start in any gear now, till I really fix it.
nice... you allowed to post pics yet?
 
Thats what expansion cuts are for. the distance between those cuts depends on the thickness and grade. For example: M10 grade is going to need expansion cuts much closer than M70. We poured M70 in the 40x80, no expansion cuts and it hasn't cracked yet, 22 years later. 14 inches thick in some places.
Yeh, I get the control cuts. I'm saying you could do a separate thick slab with expansion joint around.
What he said!:poke:
My computer was crawling. It tried to start a backup. Had to stop it...
30", wow. I thought it was just thicker slab...
 
Concrete Rule #1 .. Concrete cracks .. Best you can hope for is to control WHERE it cracks .. As far as strength goes .. The only way to get it to it's "design" strength is to keep it hydrated/under water for a month .. The slower the water leaves the placed concrete the better .. Don't keep adding water to the mud to make it easier to manhandle .. Bad JooJoo .. Dryer is better .. If covering it and keeping it wet is not an option .. Spray it with a sealant made for such ..
 
Wrong roster comb in the trans like mine?
I think the header hit switch in the crash. Will lift it and look at it. Got it home yesterday. They would not let me install anything that was not part of the car before the wreak. So no frame connectors...Car looks and drives the same, actually a little better, I think...
 
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