Stop in for a cup of coffee

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Ben Drinkin said:
Had one in a 90 model Bonneville. Sold it with 280k on it and it was still running strong..
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The used cars guys were always snatching them up at the Auctions.. Made it hard to steal one away from the Auctioneer... They resold like hotcakes...
 
krazykuda said:
Here's one theme you may want to consider...

The last time it was out was to do a parade lap around Talledega in 1988 with the Winged Warriors Auto Club... Here's a picture of all of us in the infield between turns 3 - 4 staging for the parade lap....

That's my bil-Jerry, bro-Butch, dad-Spike, me, and my cousin-Pete...


View attachment 1715229546
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Well then, how about this...

800DDCBB-CD30-431B-9C1C-CD390DFFFCBB.jpeg
 
Those 3800’s had an issue. Plastic intake. Egr and coolant run through it and pass in ports that are very close. Have seen 4 or 5 that blow through.
Pumps coolant into intake. Literally pumps it. Imagine coolant seeping enough to stall a hot engine, immediately after the stall heat soak kicks in and floods it even more.
There was a repair,a steel sleeve that you bond into the port. Last time i made one in the lathe.
That or a new intake.

The wiring around the fuel rail and by the coil pack/ign control gets brittle too. Something to look for if you lose spark or fuel injectors.
 
Back from the wife’s adventure.
Was ok, but enough driving for me.
Stopped in the big city and picked up a few odds and ends for the shop.talked myself out of buying a shrinker-stretcher. For now.
 
Was up on the roof earlier checking out my chimney. Not bad at all. I had caulked a few cracks in the concrete cap several years ago. No new cracks and most of my repairs are intact. I will just touch that up with some fresh caulk and build a cover. Easier said than done, cause it is a triple flue. 7x11 clay liners stick up about 6". I have a sheet of aluminum and some 1-1/4 alum angle that should work. Just need to figure out best way to put it all together. Need to be able to remove or open it to run a brush down the center chimney where I burn wood.
I really think my main problem of getting water in the chimney is from the unused Kitchen flue. The wood stove comes up under that and angles over, then up the center. I think the water laying in the kitchen flue is cooking from the heat of the one under and then seaping thru and down. I might seal the top of that one to keep critters out once I put the hood over. Not sure if I will enclose sides with screen /expanded metal...
 
No, there is an internal part inside that blows through. Maybe it doesent apply to the engine in question.
9129124A-F6EC-4EF9-A4D4-5E9D69F26A31.png
 
The engine in question isnt prone to this failure. Better yet.
 
Tooljunkie said:
No, there is an internal part inside that blows through. Maybe it doesent apply to the engine in question. View attachment 1715229776
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Never seen one do that...
Funny how tbe same motor will have different problems in different regions,here in texas on overheat weakest link breaks and there the weakest link breaks on hard freeze.
 
TXDart said:
Never seen one do that...
Funny how tbe same motor will have different problems in different regions,here in texas on overheat weakest link breaks and there the weakest link breaks on hard freeze.
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A battery is a good example. After a run of -27 days battery sales go up. I remember a winter
That the shop was installing 2 or 3 batteries every day for a month.

When temps hit near the 90’s,same thing. Batteries fail.
For the most part, 5-6 years is a good run for a battery.
 
UUUggggg.. Trying to get the brakes , all new on the 65 Belve. 10x2.5 on the front. Didnt have self adjust, so I bought kits for that. Bought HD Centric , rivited shoes, but they got no pins for the adj levers...Been chasing parts all day , trying to find right pins.. Pia when you upgrade....Need larger dia pins for the HD shoes... Might just spot weld the smaller pins, to make it all work......:BangHead::BangHead:
 
MOPARMITCH said:
UUUggggg.. Trying to get the brakes , all new on the 65 Belve. 10x2.5 on the front. Didnt have self adjust, so I bought kits for that. Bought HD Centric , rivited shoes, but they got no pins for the adj levers...Been chasing parts all day , trying to find right pins.. Pia when you upgrade....Need larger dia pins for the HD shoes... Might just spot weld the smaller pins, to make it all work......:BangHead::BangHead:
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Pin type shoes on a '65?
AFAIK the pin type shoes and matching self adjusters were adopted across all Chysler car lines in Model year '69.
Either go with the earlier type, or go with the '69 type and matching hardware. Early style the adjuster pushes the adjuster cog down. '69 up the adjuster lever moves pushes the notched cog upward. '69 up shoes will usually fit earlier, but earlier shoes can not be used with the later system.
 
Mattax said:
Pin type shoes on a '65?
AFAIK the pin type shoes and matching self adjusters were adopted across all Chysler car lines in Model year '69.
Either go with the earlier type, or go with the '69 type and matching hardware. Early style the adjuster pushes the adjuster cog down. '69 up the adjuster lever moves pushes the notched cog upward. '69 up shoes will usually fit earlier, but earlier shoes can not be used with the later system.
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Im using the later system... Just need the correct pins for the shoes.....
 
Seems odd those shoes have different pin size. Wonder if it might cross to another line, like Imperials. Otherwise I guess your options are turn yoiur own on a lathe - if you know someone with, or do what you posted.
 
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