Stop in for a cup of coffee

-
WV64Signet said:
Nerve blocker. Not sure of the zombie part but I guess your sciatic pain would be lower on the list of problems :poke:
Click to expand...
Nerve blocker. Good, i have a lot of nerve.
When drawing up the paperwork, the nurse asked me if i identify as as anything, religion or race.
I replied “human”
 
zkx14 said:
laminated or tempered? Both are safety glass. Traditionally windshields are laminated and all other auto glass is tempered.
Looking up part # for my CX-30 side windows... haven't got an answer what glass type yet. But crazy thing is the part # seems to cross for Mazda , Ford Fusion, Tesla X and a Beemer. And the pics look like it could be correct... :wtf:
Click to expand...
Laminated door glass on the new cars. Not sure if all of them but all the ones I broke were.
Not as strong as tempered glass, You can jump up and down on tempered glass and as long as it's not a sharp object it's hard to break.
 
Will This part just showed up from a member in Belgium here.
I kind of gave up hope. Especially after he Said he sent it with no insurance or tracking.
Extremely rare part as Hoppy would say.

20230522_161259.jpg
 
Last edited:
71GSSDemon said:
Learning more about reading spark plugs today. Color, burn line on the ground strap, and the fuel (AFR) burn line on the porcelain. Can learn a bunch about how the engine is running. So, I cut some plugs here at work to see what I can learn. These are a bit rich, ground strap doesn't have a nice burn line visible (line should be burnt all the way to the weld point just above the threads and the fuel line on the radious of the porcelain is a bit dark, should be a bit lighter, but overall in good shape.

View attachment 1716093067
Click to expand...

There are varying opinions on the validity of the ideal strap mark and ring locations.
They do seem to corellate to the development of the flame as Shrinker described. (I'm not sure if I have that saved and that forum is gone).
However with a mix of driving conditions it becomes difficult if not impossible to say when it was rich, or lean, too much or too little timing.
The way it is, or was, done at the track is to cut the engine clean - if I get the is right, put it N or hit the clutch, then shut the engine off, keep enough speed to coast down the return road to a place to pull off. I never tried it.
Maybe more practical is to coast clean with the engine idling rather than engine braking. Then the plugs will mostly show evidence of the wide open throttle run plus the idling. Launch is pretty quick depending on your technique.

Shrinker's Spark Plug reading pdf has been posted on FABO and elsewhere. His observations make the brain explode, or shrink. Worth looking at just to see what is taken as gospel is not always universally true.

Anyway. I think those plugs look pretty good and doing what your doing helps build a baseline. If you weren't doing this you would have nothing to reference when you make future changes.
 
Eric, Just looked. I do have it saved - at least the text in Word For Windows '95. Also some of the webpages from Motorsports Village.
Let me know if you want. Too much to post here.
I should post up in one of the Fuel or performance threads. Also as a sticky in RFS. I've really let that go.
 
I understand and agree about clean cut-off and coast to check plugs. For a street car it seems like bit should be an honest mix versus drag car. Idling vs WOT will show differently. Do you check idle. Then cruise. Then WOT and verify all are good for a balanced engine. I have fear that in their testing WOT could be perfect but idle or cruise lean. So, ideally, to me, it seems cruise would be very important check for a street car. I could be wrong
 
Mattax said:
Eric, Just looked. I do have it saved - at least the text in Word For Windows '95. Also some of the webpages from Motorsports Village.
Let me know if you want. Too much to post here.
I should post up in one of the Fuel or performance threads. Also as a sticky in RFS. I've really let that go.
Click to expand...
Thanks! I can send you my email, or if you post it, just drop the link.
 
Keeps the air bags that just explode contained I bet!

Man long day of Driving miss Daisy. Man the dog got spoiled as usual. Hit Wendys while waiting, asked for a plain burger and a cup or H2O for Harley. Hey will she just ead the meat she asks? , UGH sure why. Well we give them out to dogs. Cool. Get to the window go to pay and sees my retired ID. Wendys gives 10% off. cool. Heres the dogs bag, here is the people bag. Cool. Go into a spot to give her the large ice water. Open the bag a burger patty and a container of snausage looking treats. So the moral of the story if homeless, steal a dog and go to Wendy's for a balanced meal for free!
 
Then, theres more go to the Post office, have to bring her in, they spoil the crap out of her there. Then the hardware store in town, same stuff and give her home made dog treats and watch her and their cat play. Oh yeah stop at Matts on the way back again spoiled by his 5YO grandson. I want to be a dog, seriously. Been called one many times but seems like a good thing in realty.....
 
zkx14 said:
And why are you breaking windows in new cars? :eek: (Inquiring minds…)
Click to expand...
Long story short doing paintless dent repair on car door dents from other people opening there door and slamming into another car door.
I use to roll the car window down slide a piece of card board between the glass and the outer door skin and remove the dent without taking the door panel off and using the glass as a back up for my tool. Takes on a normal door dent about 2 minutes to remove the dent. Made good money in the old days and saved the customer lots of money. Been doing it for 40 years but now lost my touch, I can't see and focus anymore and the the new door glass is not as strong.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Long story short doing paintless dent repair on car door dents from other people opening there door and slamming into another car door.
I use to roll the car window down slide a piece of card board between the glass and the outer door skin and remove the dent without taking the door panel off and using the glass as a back up for my tool. Takes on a normal door dent about 2 minutes to remove the dent. Made good money in the old days and saved the customer lots of money. Been doing it for 40 years but now lost my touch, I can't see and focus anymore and the the new door glass is not as strong.
Click to expand...
Think I showed this before but a foot long dent on a Suburban roof I was able to save without painting. One of my last big saves. Not a good picture but the dent was gone and looked good.

20190107_120307.jpg


20190107_160559.jpg
 
Yard work most of the day, lunch, and then went to the range...golf range for an hour and a half.
Came home had a snack and now resting up for a softball game tonight...GO GO GO wouldn't do it any other way.

Frank hope you can get a good night's sleep...maybe a recliner if you have one.
Mitch congrats keep going it will get a bit easier each day.
 
71GSSDemon said:
I understand and agree about clean cut-off and coast to check plugs. For a street car it seems like bit should be an honest mix versus drag car. Idling vs WOT will show differently. Do you check idle. Then cruise. Then WOT and verify all are good for a balanced engine. I have fear that in their testing WOT could be perfect but idle or cruise lean. So, ideally, to me, it seems cruise would be very important check for a street car. I could be wrong
Click to expand...
I think we agree. The challenge with plug readings is isolating the conditions which colored the plugs. Honestly even with a data logger its been challenging isolating the scenarios. My approach is to blend the way it ought to been done, and what is most practical for me. For me that is idle, idle in gear, off idle to low speed crusise, cruising at 35 to 45 mps. if there's issues with accelerating lightly or moderating then I have to start over. It's just not practical or safe if there are issues with normal accelerating or going up a hill. Then check highway for drivablility but at this point my goal is to test WOT at the track or dyno. Then come back to highway cruise, transistions, and pump shot.
 
Mattax said:
I think we agree. The challenge with plug readings is isolating the conditions which colored the plugs. Honestly even with a data logger its been challenging isolating the scenarios. My approach is to blend the way it ought to been done, and what is most practical for me. For me that is idle, idle in gear, off idle to low speed crusise, cruising at 35 to 45 mps. if there's issues with accelerating lightly or moderating then I have to start over. It's just not practical or safe if there are issues with normal accelerating or going up a hill. Then check highway for drivablility but at this point my goal is to test WOT at the track or dyno. Then come back to highway cruise, transistions, and pump shot.
Click to expand...
So, to build on this. How long should it be run in each of those rpm/speed brackets to accurately test the plugs? Hmmmm. Right now it is a bit rich, at what rpm, not sure. All? I just don't want lean at cruise. Although with 1:1 linkage on primary/secondary and each carb together, 8 barrels of fuel at awaiting at every need for more input.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
-

Back
Top