Stop in for a cup of coffee

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71GSSDemon said:
How long should it be run in each of those rpm/speed brackets to accurately test the plugs?
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Hah! I wish I knew that. We know that some guys could read a plug after 10 to 20 seconds at wide open throttle. My impression was two or three passes were better.
Next time any of us get a chance to talk with some older class racers (stock elim or SS) probably a good discussion starter. Whether ther also have insight into street or roundy round will vary. The guy who first mentored me was very focused on short trips, about a 1/4 mile at time. LOL.
71GSSDemon said:
Right now it is a bit rich, at what rpm, not sure. All? I just don't want lean at cruise. Although 8 barrels of fuel at awaiting at every need for more input.
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With the distributor set as it is, wait til you can do a WOT pull or two in high gear at the track or a safe dyno.
All this talk about adjusting the PCVRs is fine, but in my limited experience the Holleys were pretty much close to correct relationship as sold.
 
Mattax said:
With the distributor set as it is, wait til you can do a WOT pull or two in high gear at the track or a safe dyno.
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Reason is that the leaner mixtures burn slower. To fully take advantage of leaner highway mixes will need vacuum advance.

H'm. Just remembered the current setup has no power valves.
Think the best approach is set the jetting for best WOT power. Test as is. Test a little richer, and if need be, go leaner in small steps until its best power. Too lean at WOT is not worth the risk.
 
found this kinda handy when readin' a lotta plugs
image_17665.jpg
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Yea you could it's not any different than hitting a target with your gun. Eye sight and a steady hand.
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I dunno Fred.
Hitting metal with a hammer takes an understanding of how that metal moved will effect the surrounding metal. To me its like knowing how the metal will move together when welding but more so.
 
Hate to be a pain for you guys but I am not good at adjusting the torsion bars on my Scamp. the upper control arms are adjusted as far out as they can go and was wondering if I raise the front end it makes it worse and if I lower it would give me some adjustment .???

IMG_20230522_172934417_HDR.jpg
 
Mattax said:
I dunno Fred.
Hitting metal with a hammer takes an understanding of how that metal moved will effect the surrounding metal. To me its like knowing how the metal will move together when welding but more so.
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Yes true pushing out a dent you have to push the surrounding metal down if it's a big dent.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Hate to be a pain for you guys but I am not good at adjusting the torsion bars on my Scamp. the upper control arms are adjusted as far out as they can go and was wondering if I raise the front end it ma
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The shop manual is good on setting alignment but maybe not so much on what you're asking.

Ride height is not effected by the alignment,
BUT the static alignment is effected by the ride height.
As the wheel moves up in the wheel well it increases caster and negative camber. In a turn this helps the outside wheel lean in. It compensates for the body roll and then some to aid the tire.

Set your ride hieght with the adjuster in the lower control arm.
The factory spec uses the difference in height between lower control arm bushing and the lower ball joint.

Then set camber, caster and toe in that order.
 
There's a couple of cheats that sometimes can be useful.

When the camber is set first, then for caster move only the rear adjuster in for more positive caster.
That will change the camber somewhat.
To finalize the camber, move both the front and rear adjuster the same amount. This will keep the caster pretty close to where you just set it.
 
Mattax said:
There's a couple of cheats that sometimes can be useful.

When the camber is set first, then for caster move only the rear adjuster in for more positive caster.
That will change the camber somewhat.
To finalize the camber, move both the front and rear adjuster the same amount. This will keep the caster pretty close to where you just set it.
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Did it again.
Spilled the beans in the coffee thread.

:lol:
 
Mattax said:
There's a couple of cheats that sometimes can be useful.

When the camber is set first, then for caster move only the rear adjuster in for more positive caster.
That will change the camber somewhat.
To finalize the camber, move both the front and rear adjuster the same amount. This will keep the caster pretty close to where you just set it.
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I like pictures :D

20230522_193222.jpg


20230522_193412.jpg
 
Mattax said:
There's a couple of cheats that sometimes can be useful.

When the camber is set first, then for caster move only the rear adjuster in for more positive caster.
That will change the camber somewhat.
To finalize the camber, move both the front and rear adjuster the same amount. This will keep the caster pretty close to where you just set it.
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Got it thanks that helps. I have a front end alignment at a shop in a couple days and knowing a bunch more helps me understand the read out.
 
Fred Scigliano said:
Got it thanks that helps. I have a front end alignment at a shop in a couple days and knowing a bunch more helps me understand the read out.
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Get the right hieght specs and measurement locations copied from a FSM for the year and model. Its rare for a shop to have those.
If they go by the original Caster and Camber, those were for high crowned roads and bias-ply or cross ply tires. If your roads are fairly flat, have them set both sides the same.
Tell 'em its a power steering car (even if it isn't) as those originally got more caster.
 
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Mattax said:
Get the right hieght specs and measurement locations copied from a FSM for the year and model. Its rare for a shop to have those.
If they go by the original Caster and Camber, those were for high crowned roads and cbias-ply or cross ply tires. If your roads are fairly flat, have them set both sides the same.
Tell 'em its a power steering car (even if it isn't) as those originally got more caster.
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Would the SKOSH chart help or just create more confusion?
 
Mattax said:
Get the right hieght specs and measurement locations copied from a FSM for the year and model. Its rare for a shop to have those.
If they go by the original Caster and Camber, those were for high crowned roads and cbias-ply or cross ply tires. If your roads are fairly flat, have them set both sides the same.
Tell 'em its a power steering car (even if it isn't) as those originally got more caster.
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And I forgot to mention and sorry but I'm running a QA1 K member and upper and lower control arms.
Think it would be the same adjustments as factory from what I been told.
 
Even though I'm not responsible for the swimming pool. I have a new tenant that is in training to run it. Today I went over there to check a few things with Chin. Told her she could help me. I'm in the pool house changing valves, backwashing the filter, and restarting the pump, for 5 minutes or so. I'm looking for her. I come outside. This is what I find. Lol. Asian women love to do selfies and self videos. Cracks me up. Kkkkkkkk
New video by Mitch “Mekong Mitch” LeFevre
 
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