Cheers fellas!
Stop in for a drink.
- Thread starter toolmanmike
- Start date
-
Couldn't help myself!
As to you as well cheers....
Darn ya Toolman I can't keep up with all the new bottles your getting.
Look closely. 10 year old Rip is unobtanium.
If you do find a bottle it's $800. I would love to have a bottle. https://drizly.com/liquor/whiskey/b...C&drz_sids[]=78&p=799.99&s=true&variant=10122
zkx14
Duster De-ruster
I don't think R V W was that old...
Yea that's a lot of money And thinking instead of all of us buying a bottle to bring to Mopars in the park if instead we all put our money together and bought 1 or 2 bottles of really good stuff to try because I know I can't afford 200 or what ever on one bottle but can put $100 in the kitty for some good stuff and might go 200 if everyone is willing to do the same.
Ya. We are chatting about that on my whiskey tasting site. $200 each for 4 guys is still no bargain. Is a $800 bottle $700 better than a nice $100 bottle? I think not.
OK so the taste is no different it's all in the age?
Age makes it richer, thicker, more complicated, and smoother.
Ddaddy
Just doing what I do
Ddaddy
Just doing what I do
Yeah, but I think she’s talking about between the ears...Especially the thicker part
EdM
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Sep 7, 2019
- Messages
- 437
- Reaction score
- 1,206
Sipping Weller's at the moment and about to take my mix of Italian meatball bowl and make a burger.
Sounds good much better than my famous canned Hormel chili tonight with crackers and cheese.
Might want to stand back about noon tomorrow. lol
Ddaddy
Just doing what I do
Stand near the furnace intake. Free fuel for the burners!
mopowers
Well-Known Member
We're ready to brew some double IPA (Pliny clone) tomorrow. We made our yeast starter Wed night and it's still cranking right now. For folks who may not know, yeast starters are basically a way to 'grow' yeast to make sure you've got enough viable yeast cells for the amount of wort (and amount of sugar in the wort) that you need to ferment. This one happens to be 1.8L. I'll take some photos of our brew day tomorrow if you all are interested. It should be a great to brew. Cheers everyone!!
mopowers
Well-Known Member
We just got done with our new batch of homebrew. For those interested, here are some photos I snapped and a description of our process. Keep in mind there are a TON of different ways to do each step of the process of homebrewing. This is just the way we do it and I've left a TON of info off.
Once the yeast starter is done (see photos above), we pour some off to make to make the starter for the next batch, then stick it in the fridge to concentrate at the bottom. In this photo, you can see the nice yeast cake at the bottom of the flask and jar:
This is the "sparge" step. I didn't get a picture of the "mash," but basically, the grain has to "mash" in ~148*-154* water for 60 mins to pull out the fermentable sugars. We use only use about half the water needed for the mash, so that we can use the rest of the heated water to rinse the grain, which is referred to as sparging. This ensures you get as much of the sugars out as possible.
This is what it looks like inside the mash tun. Looks and smells like oatmeal.
At the bottom, there's a device that allows the liquid to drain without taking the grain with it:
We use a piece of cheesecloth as well to help keep the solids out:
Once we get to the pre-boil volume we need, it's time to start the boil. In this batch, we did a super long 90 minute boil. Typically, we do a 60 boil. Notice this is after the first hop addition. The longer the hops boil, the more bittering they contribute to the beer. Later hop additions contribute flavor, whereas the last additions contribute the hoppy aroma. We use disposable tea bags for the hops because it helps keep the hop matter out of the fermenter and keeps the off flavors at bay (in our opinion). In this batch, our pre-boil volume was 8 gallons.
With 10 mins to go in the boil, we add the immersion wort chiller (basically a 50' coil of 1/2" copper tubing). This devise helps cool the wort quickly so we can then pitch our yeast. We have a "pre-chiler" as well which helps cool it off even faster.
Between the chiller and pre-chiller (and cooler ambient temp), we were able to chill the boiling wort down to 65* within 10 mins.
Once the yeast starter is done (see photos above), we pour some off to make to make the starter for the next batch, then stick it in the fridge to concentrate at the bottom. In this photo, you can see the nice yeast cake at the bottom of the flask and jar:
This is the "sparge" step. I didn't get a picture of the "mash," but basically, the grain has to "mash" in ~148*-154* water for 60 mins to pull out the fermentable sugars. We use only use about half the water needed for the mash, so that we can use the rest of the heated water to rinse the grain, which is referred to as sparging. This ensures you get as much of the sugars out as possible.
This is what it looks like inside the mash tun. Looks and smells like oatmeal.
At the bottom, there's a device that allows the liquid to drain without taking the grain with it:
We use a piece of cheesecloth as well to help keep the solids out:
Once we get to the pre-boil volume we need, it's time to start the boil. In this batch, we did a super long 90 minute boil. Typically, we do a 60 boil. Notice this is after the first hop addition. The longer the hops boil, the more bittering they contribute to the beer. Later hop additions contribute flavor, whereas the last additions contribute the hoppy aroma. We use disposable tea bags for the hops because it helps keep the hop matter out of the fermenter and keeps the off flavors at bay (in our opinion). In this batch, our pre-boil volume was 8 gallons.
With 10 mins to go in the boil, we add the immersion wort chiller (basically a 50' coil of 1/2" copper tubing). This devise helps cool the wort quickly so we can then pitch our yeast. We have a "pre-chiler" as well which helps cool it off even faster.
Between the chiller and pre-chiller (and cooler ambient temp), we were able to chill the boiling wort down to 65* within 10 mins.
Last edited:
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Once cooled, we transfer to the 6.5 gallon carboy. We ended up with ~5.8 gallons in the carboy - down from the 8 gallons before the boil. The 90 minute boil reduced it by over 2 gallons!
When we transfer to the carboy, we're sure to pull a sample to get a specific gravity reading. This tells you how much sugar is in the liquid and - along with the gravity reading after fermentation - provide you with the alcohol percentage by volume.
Finally, we place the carboy in a chest freezer with a temp controller that we use to ferment in. For this batch we'll ferment at 66-67*. Before this step, we've added oxygen and the yeast. It'll ferment for ~7 days before we add the last addition of hops, then wait another 5-7 days before transferring to a 5 gallon keg, carbonating, and drinking the **** out of it.
When we transfer to the carboy, we're sure to pull a sample to get a specific gravity reading. This tells you how much sugar is in the liquid and - along with the gravity reading after fermentation - provide you with the alcohol percentage by volume.
Finally, we place the carboy in a chest freezer with a temp controller that we use to ferment in. For this batch we'll ferment at 66-67*. Before this step, we've added oxygen and the yeast. It'll ferment for ~7 days before we add the last addition of hops, then wait another 5-7 days before transferring to a 5 gallon keg, carbonating, and drinking the **** out of it.
mopowers
Well-Known Member
Cheers guys!
-
