abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
I'd start with the NGK equivalent to an autolite 64.
Suggestions on which plugs to go with
- Thread starter Rude72*
- Start date
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abodyjoe
Well-Known Member
is that the 284/484?
QuickDart360
Well-Known Member
Mopar cam kool!Kool!! I've got the 292 mopar cam it's great!
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
Not sure
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
Thanks for sharing!
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
Hey, a-bodyguy, will these work for me ok?
NGK 6509 LTR6IX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug
Thanks!
Scody21
Just send it
Have to look at the plug chart to ensure you get the correct tread size and grip length. You won’t pick up any power with iridium plugs. Waste of money…
^^^^^Totally incorrect.
Plat & Irid plugs require less arc over voltage. One of the benefits is LESS MISFIRES [ more HP ], which is why the OEMs soend the extra $$$ & use them because they reduce emissions from less misfires.
You can & should run bigger plug gaps with them.
Use NGK 5 heat range.
Plat & Irid plugs require less arc over voltage. One of the benefits is LESS MISFIRES [ more HP ], which is why the OEMs soend the extra $$$ & use them because they reduce emissions from less misfires.
You can & should run bigger plug gaps with them.
Use NGK 5 heat range.
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
When I visited the NGK site, I entered “Plymouth Duster 340” to search compatibility and got the response “not compatible with this vehicle”.
Do you think this is because NGK’s compatibility search is using “stock”/OEM specs on the motor. I’m thinking that shouldn’t matter since my motor is a 340 small block, anyhow. Thoughts?
This is the plug I entered in the search option:
NGK 6509 LTR6IX-11 Iridium IX Spark Plug
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
Thank you for the information! Any “ballpark” numbers come to mind for gap spacing?
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
They use those plugs because they last 100k miles.
That’s the only reason for it.
They don’t reduce misfires. They only help fuel mileage when a different type of plug is used up.
Replace the plugs and there is no difference.
Plus, it’s far harder light those rare earth metal plugs.
The ONLY think a plug like that does is lighten you wallet.
Stay away from that stuff unless you love to burn money and sound cool on the internet.
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
I guess you are referring to P.T. Barnum's quote... "there's a sucker born every minute".
Of course ignorance personified in post #37 & the ignorance just keeps coming.....
I have done a LOT of spark plug testing because ign is a subject that has fascinated me. You will get idiotic statements as in post #37; another favourite is spark plugs do not make a hp difference......
Thank goodness some smart people thought otherwise....or else we would still be using the 18mm two piece plugs that my 1938 Knucklehead had....
Example. I tried the then new Bosch plugs a few years back that had 4 grd electrodes. I got surging at about 35 mph. Hmm. I only changed the plugs. Re-fitted the trusty NGKs. No surging [which is misfiring....causing power loss....& increased fuel consumption ]. WTF? I cut off two of the grd electrodes on the Bosch plugs & re-tried them. No surging now.....that I could feel. However, I was worried that I could be getting misfiring & not feeling it [ sometimes hard to feel with big engines ]. Just one example.
Below is another example, an extreme example, but it shows how much hp can be lost just due to the wrong spark plugs [ too cold ]. In this case, 33% hp loss.
I have done a LOT of spark plug testing because ign is a subject that has fascinated me. You will get idiotic statements as in post #37; another favourite is spark plugs do not make a hp difference......
Thank goodness some smart people thought otherwise....or else we would still be using the 18mm two piece plugs that my 1938 Knucklehead had....
Example. I tried the then new Bosch plugs a few years back that had 4 grd electrodes. I got surging at about 35 mph. Hmm. I only changed the plugs. Re-fitted the trusty NGKs. No surging [which is misfiring....causing power loss....& increased fuel consumption ]. WTF? I cut off two of the grd electrodes on the Bosch plugs & re-tried them. No surging now.....that I could feel. However, I was worried that I could be getting misfiring & not feeling it [ sometimes hard to feel with big engines ]. Just one example.
Below is another example, an extreme example, but it shows how much hp can be lost just due to the wrong spark plugs [ too cold ]. In this case, 33% hp loss.
Above talks about quenching action....
Nothing to do with combustion chamber quench.....
In electrical theory, there is a phenomenon called quenching; it refers to the fact that when a spark is generated from metal, the surrounding volume of cold metal tries to quench/absorb/ extinguish the newly generated spark. By reducing the volume of cold-er metal that could extinguish the spark, there is more chance the spark will stay 'lit'. Hence the benefit of fine wire Plat & Irid plugs; a side benefit is less arc over voltage, so a marginal ign system could fire a plat or irid plug.....but wouldn't fire a conventional plug.
As for plug gaps with P & I plugs, if the ign system uses a bal res, use a 0.045" gap. No bal res, run 0.060" gaps.
Nothing to do with combustion chamber quench.....
In electrical theory, there is a phenomenon called quenching; it refers to the fact that when a spark is generated from metal, the surrounding volume of cold metal tries to quench/absorb/ extinguish the newly generated spark. By reducing the volume of cold-er metal that could extinguish the spark, there is more chance the spark will stay 'lit'. Hence the benefit of fine wire Plat & Irid plugs; a side benefit is less arc over voltage, so a marginal ign system could fire a plat or irid plug.....but wouldn't fire a conventional plug.
As for plug gaps with P & I plugs, if the ign system uses a bal res, use a 0.045" gap. No bal res, run 0.060" gaps.
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
More theoretical bullshit.
It all sounds good until you actually test nonsense like this.
I was playing with fine wire plugs in the mid 1970’s and was using them as late as the early 2000’s.
There is nothing in expensive plugs. Not a single HP, no drivability, no nothing except a lighter wallet.
Carnival hucksters and shysters write books of little to no value so their sycophants can parrot their bullshit on the web.
Rude72*
Well-Known Member
I'm beginning to regret that I posted this thread!
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
It’s easy to ignore the carnival hucksters and such.
Again, there are no tricks to spark plugs. They aren’t some super squirrel **** sprinkled with fairy dust.
Save your money. If you need a fine wire plug to crutch a weak ignition buy a better ignition.
Scody21
Just send it
I’m wondering why non of the NGK race plugs we buy are iridium… at a cost of 60-70 bucks each you would think they would used the best materials to make them. Oh yeah that’s right the Iridium plugs were designed for 100,000 mile “life time” plug changes….
Newbomb Turk
Well-Known Member
No worries this is normal , carry on .
Turk,
My 6 yr old grandson does better red crosses than you do.
Maybe you could learn something from him, because you do not seem to learning much of anything else.
And you certainly were not using Plat or Irid plugs in the 70s because they were not available until the 90s.....
My 6 yr old grandson does better red crosses than you do.
Maybe you could learn something from him, because you do not seem to learning much of anything else.
And you certainly were not using Plat or Irid plugs in the 70s because they were not available until the 90s.....
Scody21
Just send it
Ok smartwad, come up with a single NGK Racing plug number that is available in iridium. They were made for 100,000 life spans not for anything more than that. Have you even put one on a box tester?
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