Swinging for Divorce…

-
@DentalDart did you finally get Shawn nailed down to a date? I went to a bonfire at his house a while back and he was using the Dart as a work bench.

View attachment 1716182407

Oh man that makes me sad. Hopefully the car isn’t to beat up. I think he is just keeping the engine and trans.

He said next weekend he is going to bring it down.
 
Looking good, Doc! Here's what drywall, white paint and LED ceiling lights do.

View attachment 1716182481

Those look like 8ft lights? Where did you find 8ft LED lights? I have 8ft in my other shop but one set it completely burned out.

I’ll have to figure out how these lights are all wired in currently. I bet I could just cut the wire going into the old light then cut the plug wire on one of the LED lights and then boom all wired up.

IMG_5850.jpeg
 
Last edited:
Spent some time organizing… it’s still no where as clean of a shop as the other one

Part of me thinks the other one should be the shop to build the swinger in.

I’m going to use the corner where all the parts are to do a built in rack system. Maybe I can get it finished next weekend? Next spring I’ll convert the trusses to scissor trusses and then start insulating some of this place. It doesn’t hold heat worth a damn.

IMG_5868.jpeg


IMG_5867.jpeg


IMG_5870.jpeg


IMG_5869.jpeg
 
If you're doing shelves I highly recommend using pallet racking. They come in all kinds of sizes, are sturdy in the extreme, adjustable, movable, and relatively cheap.

20231226_162050.jpg
 
Enclose just a small portion of that pole barn for the work area, insulated and heat just that. If you were a frugale Mo. guy, a $200 wood stove in its corner would be great and cook chili on its top too!:confederateflag::thumbsup:
 
If you're doing shelves I highly recommend using pallet racking. They come in all kinds of sizes, are sturdy in the extreme, adjustable, movable, and relatively cheap.

View attachment 1716183518

I was looking at some shelves like that but I kind of want to do it built in? I can get big 10k weight rating racks for like 200 bucks though.

IMG_5873.png


IMG_5874.png
 
Man I wish I had all that space.

I am truly blessed to get a house with all this work space. This shop is 40x40 and the 2nd shop, which is significantly more clean is 30x40 but I’d only be able to put 1 lift in it and the old owner said in the summer it traps moisture really bad due to the metal inside.


Enclose just a small portion of that pole barn for the work area, insulated and heat just that. If you were a frugale Mo. guy, a $200 wood stove in its corner would be great and cook chili on its top too!:confederateflag::thumbsup:

I was actually looking at just doing a wood stove instead of insulating it. I feel like insulation in it will be hard because all of the outlets are not set flush to the outer part of the studs, they are slightly recessed.

IMG_5833.jpeg
 
Insulating that thing after the fact will be a feat. Unless you want to rip all the siding and roofing off probably best to put plywood in all the stud bays, then fill with insulation. If they're 2x4 walls, you might could fur them out to get some thickness and r19 in there. Cap it off with metal siding to keep the weight down (plus more water resistant than Sheetrock!) since who knows if it's on much of a footing? I wouldn't worry much either way, but metal walls would just be more durable in a shop setting and be more fire resistant than plywood and less hassle to diy than Sheetrock too.

You could spray foam as is, but then if you ever need to repair or replace siding or roofing, or get a leak (and you will) you're kinda hosed.
I'd be tempted to pull all the roofing off and put down condensation blanket insulation and then put the roof back. It makes a heck of a difference and will cut way down on condensation too, especially if you start heating with anything out there. If you do heat it, you'll want to keep everything above the dew point to avoid condensation on cars and parts. It'll wreak all kinds of havoc on bare metal stuff in just a couple short years.

Insulating a smaller space within the space is probably the smartest way to do it, and depending on how you do it, could also be expandable until the whole place is done.

As far as electric, they make mud and extension rings for a reason. Would cut down on the work quite a bit.
 
I agree with several of the insulating methods already mentioned as being potentially effective. There is a product I've used in the past that you simply mix with paint, and it adds "refractive" properties to the paint (California's way of legislating their version of saying 'insulating'). Here is an Amazon link:

Amazon product ASIN B01AC5KRJ6
You can go to the company web site and the "purchase price" is the same as Amazon, but shipping is MUCH higher if you order direct. They have different sized packages where you can treat upwards of 30+ gallons of paint. You'd be surprised just how effective this stuff really is!
 
I am truly blessed to get a house with all this work space. This shop is 40x40 and the 2nd shop, which is significantly more clean is 30x40 but I’d only be able to put 1 lift in it and the old owner said in the summer it traps moisture really bad due to the metal inside.




I was actually looking at just doing a wood stove instead of insulating it. I feel like insulation in it will be hard because all of the outlets are not set flush to the outer part of the studs, they are slightly recessed.

View attachment 1716183808
Welcome to the humid Midwest! Try to keep things simple, make sure you have adequate ventilation for the Summer. A wall mounted exhaust fan is cheap and pretty easy to install. A dehumidifier or 2 does wonders to keep the moisture and to some degree will help with the high heat index.

 
i agree with the idea of putting up a smaller insulated 'room/shop' inside the main building. as mentioned it's easily made bigger in the future if you make the walls up as seperate panels that bolt together.
neil.
 
Doc you have some cool buildings! The pole barn looks 60 x 100 in the pc!!

I have no clue how big the pole barn is but it’s massive! We are gonna build a chicken coupe inside one of the stalls. I’ll snap some pictures from inside the barn one of these days. The floor of the barn is not concrete or anything, just dirt and mud. A long time ago the original owner farmed and raised Emu’s on the property
 
i agree with the idea of putting up a smaller insulated 'room/shop' inside the main building. as mentioned it's easily made bigger in the future if you make the walls up as seperate panels that bolt together.
neil.

Then I’d had to build a room in there and what about the lifts… I’d rather insulate it somehow… the other shop is insulated and holds temperatures really well.
 
What’s wrong with doing something like these insulation boards and then spray foam the cracks between the boards?

Got some industrial racks from sams, much quicker and easier than building them with 2x4s but I still kind of want some 2x4 built in racks.

IMG_5919.png


IMG_5918.jpeg
 
I think the metal will still sweat if the insulation isn’t touching it. I ran into that on a house I remodeled for my daughter and had to spray foam the underside of the metal roof
 
i agree with the idea of putting up a smaller insulated 'room/shop' inside the main building. as mentioned it's easily made bigger in the future if you make the walls up as seperate panels that bolt together.
neil.
I have one bay of my detached 3 car garage enclosed with 4 mil thick plastic sheeting on ceiling and walls. Not really insulated but small electric heaters can warm it up fairly well on cold days and the plastic keeps the heat in pretty good.
 
-
Back
Top