Swinging for Divorce…

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No?!?! It has a Strange 60 built to mini tubbed A body specs with a brand new Eaton Tru Trac and 3.55 gears. Oh yeah, and disc brakes. I thought you knew that? Bonus!

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Those are ESPO +1" springs that have about 2k miles on them. I told Shawn to part it out and not sell it whole for scrap prices, but that was his choice. He got a forged 408 with a Tom Hand 727 for free, so he didn't really care about the rest of the vehicle.
 
BrianT said:
No?!?! It has a Strange 60 built to mini tubbed A body specs with a brand new Eaton Tru Trac and 3.55 gears. Oh yeah, and disc brakes. I thought you knew that? Bonus!

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Those are ESPO +1" springs that have about 2k miles on them. I told Shawn to part it out and not sell it whole for scrap prices, but that was his choice. He got a forged 408 with a Tom Hand 727 for free, so he didn't really care about the rest of the vehicle.
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I didn’t know what the rear end was, I thought it was a shortened ford lol. I figured it was mini tubbed when I saw it has 325s, those are some huge tires haha.

Yeah he was happy to get the engine and transmission for free. Parting it out would be a bear. I hate parting stuff out, because people try to nickel and dime you over a 5 dollar part and then complain about shipping.
 
Phreakish said:
With as much area as you're doing, I'd look into froth paks for the spray foam. Cheaper in the long run than the cans, but you'll want to have all the boards in first because it's not something that can be started and stopped a bunch from what I understand.
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Probably would have been cheaper for sure, 1 can gets only maybe 2-3 inserts. I got some 24oz cans and then bought the tub for them and it’s supposed to make it a lot easier and less messy. I’ll try it out in a bit after I take the Christmas lights down at my office.

I’m sure I’ll only be getting about R10 out of all of this but I’ll probably only have 3k into it and that is including the OSB. I imagine the ceiling will be another 2k maybe.

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DentalDart said:
Probably would have been cheaper for sure, 1 can gets only maybe 2-3 inserts. I got some 24oz cans and then bought the tub for them and it’s supposed to make it a lot easier and less messy. I’ll try it out in a bit after I take the Christmas lights down at my office.

I’m sure I’ll only be getting about R10 out of all of this but I’ll probably only have 3k into it and that is including the OSB. I imagine the ceiling will be another 2k maybe.

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That's not a bad investment for the benefits. I did some quick math you might find useful.

Around me, 2" r7.7 white foam with facing is about $1/sq, which is about the same cost as r19 24" batt insulation. 1/2" OSB is about $0.50 a square foot. Metal roof panels are about $1.33 a square foot.

To do just walls with 2" of foam and osb capping it should be about $1.50 per square. I'd be tempted to go 4" of foam with osb in and out, which would be $3 per square or if the inside was done in metal $3.88 per square. Or, fiberglass batts with osb outside and metal inside would be $2.88 and R19+, or $2 with osb inside and out.

But what really matters is how much does heating cost and can spending more now cost less in the long run.

The Diminishing Returns of Adding More Insulation - Energy Vanguard

R10 would cost 22% more to heat than R15, and R20 would cost half as much. If using propane, for me at $4/gallon R10 and heating to 65 Deg would cost almost $1300 per season versus $650 at R20. Actual numbers will vary though depending on how well the ceiling is actually insulated since ceilings tend to be more insulated than walls and also represent about half the surface area.

Still, it shows just how valuable insulation can be. I'd try to get all you can out of it since redoing or adding to it later could be difficult.
 
Phreakish said:
That's not a bad investment for the benefits. I did some quick math you might find useful.

Around me, 2" r7.7 white foam with facing is about $1/sq, which is about the same cost as r19 24" batt insulation. 1/2" OSB is about $0.50 a square foot. Metal roof panels are about $1.33 a square foot.

To do just walls with 2" of foam and osb capping it should be about $1.50 per square. I'd be tempted to go 4" of foam with osb in and out, which would be $3 per square or if the inside was done in metal $3.88 per square. Or, fiberglass batts with osb outside and metal inside would be $2.88 and R19+, or $2 with osb inside and out.

But what really matters is how much does heating cost and can spending more now cost less in the long run.

The Diminishing Returns of Adding More Insulation - Energy Vanguard

R10 would cost 22% more to heat than R15, and R20 would cost half as much. If using propane, for me at $4/gallon R10 and heating to 65 Deg would cost almost $1300 per season versus $650 at R20. Actual numbers will vary though depending on how well the ceiling is actually insulated since ceilings tend to be more insulated than walls and also represent about half the surface area.

Still, it shows just how valuable insulation can be. I'd try to get all you can out of it since redoing or adding to it later could be difficult.
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I like your math… problem with bat is it can get wet without me having a wrap outside of the wood frame. Also I have 0 desire to mess with fiberglass insulation. Also propane is way expensive!

My biggest heat loss right now is in the roof and the back sliding garage door. The roof where it meets the outer walls has pretty big gaps and the back sliding garage door has gaps on both sides of it. Those 2 things will have to be fixed and then it will hold heat in here no problem, at least good enough for the girls I go with.

It’s been in the mid to high 30s all day and I was out there working in pants and a long sleeve t-shirt. Had the heater on for a bit before turning it off.

You can see the cracks in these pictures. I haven’t decided how I will fix the garage door yet…

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barbee6043 said:
Once you get it draft free, you will be surprised how little heat it will take. That concrete floors will be the cold spot!
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Usually I lay carpet down on the garage floor so I don’t drip engine and transmission oil everywhere
 
DentalDart said:
I like your math… problem with bat is it can get wet without me having a wrap outside of the wood frame. Also I have 0 desire to mess with fiberglass insulation. Also propane is way expensive!

My biggest heat loss right now is in the roof and the back sliding garage door. The roof where it meets the outer walls has pretty big gaps and the back sliding garage door has gaps on both sides of it. Those 2 things will have to be fixed and then it will hold heat in here no problem, at least good enough for the girls I go with.

You can see the cracks in these pictures. I haven’t decided how I will fix the garage door yet…

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I don't disagree with your logic at all. That's why with batt I'd be putting osb in all the cavities first, or maybe tyvek first then osb over it in all the bays to keep water out. A vapor barrier inside wouldn't be a bad idea either if using fg, to keep any water vapor inside from migrating through to the metal sheathing and condensing there.

But yeah, fiberglass still sucks *** to deal with no matter what. I'm just a cheap ***, LOL.
 
Phreakish said:
I don't disagree with your logic at all. That's why with batt I'd be putting osb in all the cavities first, or maybe tyvek first then osb over it in all the bays to keep water out. A vapor barrier inside wouldn't be a bad idea either if using fg, to keep any water vapor inside from migrating through to the metal sheathing and condensing there.

But yeah, fiberglass still sucks *** to deal with no matter what. I'm just a cheap ***, LOL.
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I’m cheap too! Hence doing it myself on my off week instead of paying for spray foam :p

My office attic has spray fiberglass insulation in it and I hate going up there because the itch never leaves and you gotta wash your clothes 4 time before it is out.

My foaming the cracks job isn’t the prettiest but it works.

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DentalDart said:
I’m cheap too! Hence doing it myself on my off week instead of paying for spray foam :p

My office attic has spray fiberglass insulation in it and I hate going up there because the itch never leaves and you gotta wash your clothes 4 time before it is out.

My foaming the cracks job isn’t the prettiest but it works.

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I don't think the canned foam ever comes out neat, LOL. Doesn't matter anyway, it'll be covered and it'll work just fine. Even the spray foam guys wind up having to trim it all back to fit wall panels..
 
On the Great Stuff expanding insulation, get the more professional tool and cans. They're INFINITELY better than the regular spray cans.
 
B-i-n-g-o said:
On the Great Stuff expanding insulation, get the more professional tool and cans. They're INFINITELY better than the regular spray cans.
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I did, I just had already purchased 3 cans with the plastic straw.

I got one of the little guns and 3 or 4 of the big cans of great stuff. I didn’t use it today because I didn’t want to have to clean it afterwards. I didn’t know how much time I’d get in the garage before the wife came out to yell at me to come in…

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barbee6043 said:
Once you get it draft free, you will be surprised how little heat it will take. That concrete floors will be the cold spot!
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The draft in the building is killing me. I’m going to get some “big crack” foam today and I am going to get this seam, this is where a big part of the draft is coming from.

It’s crazy how much better temp control the smaller insulated shop has. It also has a furnace in it…. The furnace I found out works too, but the air it blows isn’t that warm, I only left it on for like 20ish minutes, which might be the reason? I don’t think so though because the furnaces in my house blow hot air real quick, maybe the thermostat. The heat pump unit outside the building doesn’t work though. I’m debating if I should do a HVAC heat pump like this one in the big shop or if I should get a 36k btu mini split, or two 24k mini splits.

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Remember with any crack "or larger" that lets in cold air, you are fighting a losing battle up there where it gets cold...
I had a shop in North Mo before I went to SW Mo that was about 30 x 60, insulated with bats and sheetrcock walls and ceiling. A small $200 wood stove would run you out once it got going, but till then if was cold as the thermometer said!!! It had hardly any draft anywhere.

I nothing about HVAC except that out home 3 ton unit was old and it bit the dust late last summer. Hey Doc can you contribute a few grand for the new one!!??? Tax write off charity contribution!! They are silly expensive, like 15 times a root canal!!!! OK at least 10 times!
 
barbee6043 said:
Remember with any crack "or larger" that lets in cold air, you are fighting a losing battle up there where it gets cold...
I had a shop in North Mo before I went to SW Mo that was about 30 x 60, insulated with bats and sheetrcock walls and ceiling. A small $200 wood stove would run you out once it got going, but till then if was cold as the thermometer said!!! It had hardly any draft anywhere.

I nothing about HVAC except that out home 3 ton unit was old and it bit the dust late last summer. Hey Doc can you contribute a few grand for the new one!!??? Tax write off charity contribution!! They are silly expensive, like 15 times a root canal!!!! OK at least 10 times!
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Yeah ac units are expensive. I have to replace one at my office in the spring, it started going bad last year and we just patched it together.

I have been thinking about a wood stove but the problem with them is they don’t help with the warm humid summers. The new mini splits you can get them to where they help with cooling and dehumidification.
 
The gap is closed halfway around the shop and I filled in the cracks on all of the boards. All I need to do now is put 14 boards up (1 wall), fill the big crack and then fill the gaps between the boards.

I’m debating if I should fill the gap all the way up to the point, or do I leave it for the air gap and circulation.

I’m not really sure lol.

With the air gap between the foam board and with OSB covering I should have about R11 or so; which isn’t to bad.

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If heated and cooled, I would want no gaps. If not, for summer and NO AC I would want garage doors open to S and W there in SW Mo. for air flow.
 
barbee6043 said:
If heated and cooled, I would want no gaps. If not, for summer and NO AC I would want garage doors open to S and W there in SW Mo. for air flow.
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X2 the gaps were for airflow, or everything would sweat.
 
sireland67 said:
X2 the gaps were for airflow, or everything would
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X3 on the above, at least in my world. I don't know how the humidity stacks up between WA and MO, but the local pole barn guys here told me to not completely seal up the shop. It needs some air flow to avoid turning into a swamp with soggy cardboard and rust on everything.

That said, if I had your shop I'd put in a mini-split like this for heat in the winter (I set mine at 50 then turn it up when I go out there) and A/C in the summer. I'd also do a wood stove - there's no substitute for wood heating.

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You can solve your leaky sliding barn door issue as follows. The gap on my door is about 1.5". I made plywood strips about 6" wide and cut to fit the height of the door. It took two 6' pieces for each side of my 12' door. Then I put 3/4" foam pipe insulation on one edge and secured it with a staple gun and then a strip of duct tape on both sides. This is a gasket for the door gap, it takes no time to slip them in when I close the door and they do a credible job of stopping the cold air from coming in to get pushed out of the ridge vent via convection. I use homemade door snakes to close off the floor gap. I'm sure there is a better way to do this but these things are cheap, easy, and work pretty well.

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I lived in Mo.37years and have built and/or had built probably at least a dozen pole barns and 2 indoor arenas one was 50 x 100 and other was 60 x 90. Pole builders like to out down a sheet of whats it called ? as a moisture barrier under the roof tin. Real thin like maybe 1/8 in. thick. Sorta thin foam looking material/ Of course, this is the bldg. goes up not after!

I agree a garage or even home can be built too air tight but hard to do suck with a pole barn! I had a guy back in Mo. that built his own home and he admitted he did too good a job and it was airtight and could have some condensation. I have never seen one that good ever! It only gets really cold here in S E Tx. a few times during the winter. Cold today, about 17 this A M and winds about 20 and I am glad we have no air leaks in the home (except the darn sliding patio door!) cause a heat pump is not good in cold!!!!
 
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