T-56 Transmission Install Thread

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If you need to back up the Trans a half inch, use a scollop ring spacer instead of cutting the input shaft. Unless that puts your shifter out of place. I did that on my ford for both the v6 and big block. I got my set-up from McLeod. However, you could get a piece of .5" aluminum plate and cut a ring and drill to match the clutch adapter (Trans front) and fit between the bell adapter and clutch adapter with a set of long pins.

Have to say, I haven't done any research on available parts since I got mine figured out. But if you go to McLeod Racing site under bell housings and click on one of the sets it will enlarge enough to see the ring I'm talking about.

I was looking at a Magnum XL which is the new HD Trans for the new 'Stangs, to replace the OEM Getrag that won't handle the high HP. As it is configured like the LS1 with the shifter all the way back on top of the tail shaft. But, they are many$ and come as a complete kit, out of which I only needed the tranny.
Good luck,
MikeH
 
You have to be careful about backing up the trans because of the clutch though. With the stock Viper setup (and I believe LS1), the throwout rides on the front face of the trans, and moving the trans back without moving the flywheel with it means you're putting a potentially large gap between the throwout and the clutch. You may not have enough stroke to get full disengagement if you go too far. You could shim the throwout forward to compensate though.
 
Mine has a .485" aluminum spacer under the throwout bearing already. I didnt have issues with input shaft on the BB. If I have to trim pilot shaft a little no biggie. That is definitely the simplest remedy.
 
Map63Vette said:
You have to be careful about backing up the trans because of the clutch though. With the stock Viper setup (and I believe LS1), the throwout rides on the front face of the trans, and moving the trans back without moving the flywheel with it means you're putting a potentially large gap between the throwout and the clutch. You may not have enough stroke to get full disengagement if you go too far. You could shim the throwout forward to compensate though.
Click to expand...
Correct, the throw-out is actually bolted to the clutch adapter. I used a spacer that a local machinist made for me (actually, he made 2), they are 0.4" worth of spacing. They slip over the slave mount just as the slave would, and they are stackable. Then the slave is stacked on the spacer and bolted in place. If small amounts of shim is still needed after installing the spacer, flat stock can be placed under the slave and spacer. I had my spacers made to fit snugly into the slave base and each other just for this possibility.
MikeH
 
Does anyone have a part number or a place to buy a slip yoke for a 96 Viper T56? I bought the Strange unit that Summit said would fit and of course it does not. Hopefully Summit sells it so I can use my credit.

Thanks,

Riddler
 
I can second that. I'm using the same yoke that was on my 833 behind my T56 which I've been told is from a 2000 Viper. Earlier ones should be the same, the only time they ever changed it was later and I think that may have only been on the updated TR6060.
 
To whomever is interested, here is a pic of my TOB spacer. It is .450" thick, 4.4" diameter and has a 1.25" center hole. The bolt holes match the holes in the TOB. The thickness needed will vary by clutch brand, bellhousing and engine being used.
 
How to figure out the shim thickness needed????
You collapse the TOB all the way while its on the trans, and measure from the mounting flange of the trans to the TOB's face. Then with the clutch and bellhousing installed to engine, you measure from PP fingers to trans mounting flange of bellhousing. This is the clearance of TOB to clutch when its all together. I shoot for .120, some guys say .100, some say .100 minumum to .200 max. This video shows the just of the measuring process. [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=T7S746x3o3Q#t=190"]Quarter Master® Quick Tech Video: Properly Setting Throwout Bearing Clearance - YouTube[/ame]
 
Just a heads up that the only flywheel that works with the gen 3 hemi is the McLeod 464108. Ram flywheels are for SB and BB....

Riddler
 
You can also use the flywheel from a 3/4 ton, Hemi Dodge Ram pickup; Mopar performance flywheel, or in my case, I bought a complete SPEC clutch / flywheel assembly for a new Challenger 6 speed, shown on my build thread.
 
Im using one from American Powertrain, but it isn't SFI certified, only SFI "quality". Im sure the McLeod is the better piece. On another note I shipped McLeod my RST disc's for a set of RXT disc's and it cost about $225 for the upgrade and they were AWESOME to deal with.
 
Thanks guys... whats the cost on the Ram flywheel?

I'm going to hopefully find some time to put some pictures and part numbers together on a page to help keep track of this all.

Riddler
 
I bought a Hemi Ram flywheel, new from the dealer back in '04 when I first started my project, for $50. Sold it with my 5.7 when I stepped up to the 6.1. Hard to say what one would cost today.
 
Waiting on some bellhousing shims and decided to put the dual disc on. Also made starter clearance.



 
I'm using a McLeod flywheel and I have a 10.5" SCT clutch and pressure plate. The holes line up but the bolts I bought from ARP don't fit. I bought the ARP 147-2201 which say "Dodge Hemi 5.7/6.1 Pressure Plate" but they don't thread in.

Anyone know what bolts are needed for pressure plate to flywheel?

Thanks,

Joe
 
Another thing for those paying close attention, the clutch part # is grease penciled on the PP fingers and is an RST GM T5 application IIRC. The clutch disc in the picture is actually a RXT disc. I found my RST clutch for a price I couldn't refuse and ended up sending my RST discs to McLeod and exchanged them for RXT disc's. Yes the only difference between an RST and RXT is the disc's.
 
Got bellhousing dialed in with .004 TIR and .00075 parallel alignment. Also installed a input bearing sprayer for later use.

 
Its all together finally. First is the .485" spacer works fine with the Gen III/T56/Viper Slave/RXT clutch/AP flywheel combo. I ended up with .160" clutch clearance, which is about .040" MORE than it was in the BB combo. So even a straight up 1/2" spacer would've been fine too. Second is the input shaft had PLENTY of room in the Manley crankshaft so no trimming needed thank goodness.
 
When you measure for the spacer did you take off the TOB spring and measure? On the transmission where do you measure the TOB to? The video says to measure to the transmission face but the T56 is all webbed. Do you just go to the base of the TOB?

Thanks,

Riddler
 
Just a heads up, the TOB spring MUST be removed for measurements. This is what I've found at different online sources. Above it was posted that measurement A is TOB to Transmission flange and measurement B is Bellhousing flange to pressure plate fingers. Which is correct to find out spacer size?

During your next clutch install, determine if your slave cylinder needs to be shimmed or not. To do so, you need to take two measurements:

1.Measurement "A" is the distance between the surface of the bellhousing that meets the transmission to the tip of the pressure plate fingers. To get an accurate measurement, the clutch must be torqued properly.

2.Measurement "B" is the distance between the throwout bearing surface to the transmission surface that meets the bellhousing. To get an accurate measurement, the slave spring must be removed and the bearing must be fully seated at the bottom of it's travel; resting on the slave's base.

Once you've got your two measurements, make sure that measurement "B" is ~1/16" to 1/8" LESS than measurement "A". If you come up with more than 1/8", add an appropriately sized shim between the slave and the transmission in order to get the measurements where they need to be.

If there is no difference between the two measurements, or if "B" is greater than "A", there could be a problem with clutch engagement which could result in premature clutch slip and eventually a total failure.
Click to expand...

So my measurements are A = 2.995" and B = 3.495" a difference of -1.5" So If I want a .125" clearance I'll need a spacer of 1.375"? Now keep in mind the B number here isn't correct as I have to measure again after I take the spring out.

Riddler
 
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