The "Indestructible" Slant 6

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I say driver error this is what you get when you stick a ford or chevy genius in a mopar crap goes boom you want a 302 go get a mustang you want a 350 go get a Camaro do the car a favor and let a MOPAR guy have it
 
Cowboy said:
You're telling me I blew my own engine up after determining it was a flow problem with the head where it lost all vacuum at a certain rpm and proceeded to fix it and install a $900 turbo set up just to blow the engine up a year or so later after driving it and depending on it every day? Hands off to your logic. The rod failed, whether I had it or someone else did it still would have failed. I don't blow a bunch of money on an engine just to tear it up.
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Well sorry, I didn't see anywhere in the linked post that you fixed the issue and then turbo'd the engine. In fact, after reading all of your posts, I didn't see any mention of a turbo until now, so I'm not really sure how the heck I could have known that.

But I don't think you have to use much logic to figure out that a stock /6 that's chewed up one set of bearings already and was only getting 10mpg might not be the best candidate for a turbo. At least not if you were expecting longevity.

And as far as expensive, you've got to be kidding. I couldn't even sell the mostly running, complete 225 /6 core I had, and it was a forged crank, 5 freeze plug style engine (stronger casting). Wasn't until I offered it up for FREE that Bill Grissom came by and picked it up from me, although he was nice enough to throw a little money my way. :D And it still had the electronic ignition distributor.

Seriously, just sell that Duster. You seem to hate it, and someone else could drop a running slant in it for about $50 and enjoy it.
 
You put a turbocharger on an unknown mileage slant 6 with no published tuning specs on a 40 year old factory design and complain when it fails? There's a '76 Nova up the street that has your name all over it. Please donate your MOPAR to a 16 year old kid in your area, and I'll send him a rebuilt slant for cheap. It'll make his day, and our future, and you can join a Chevrolet forum. Clueless people like yourself don't belong on this site. Buh-bye.
 
I'd like to see the top side pictures,
block and head.
I've seen them come apart like this
when the driver has a habit of flooring
it then letting off then flooring it again.

You can/should expect equipment failure when you
start turning them up.
You should at least figure out why it failed so you
don't do it again.
How do you know it didn't drop a valve or hydrolock
from a popped head gasket.

Quit whining, man up and go bigger/better.
Its hard to get any sympathy when you've thrashed
a stock engine and wrung out a years worth of fun
then cry about it when it lets go.
Its part of the hobby and life.
We all get our turn in the barrel.
 
I've had some engines that I tried to blow up and couldn't, and some I didn't want to blow up that exploded. In the end we do our best, but the engine takes what it has to work with, and then it does what it has to, so to speak. No one and no thing wants to obey the laws of physics, but hey, there you go.
 
Cowboy said:
It was not denotation either the piston is in perfect condition except for where the rod was ripped out of it and can be seen still intact in my photos in the the cylinder. Worst part is now I have a turbo full of metal that I have to rebuild again.
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You just answerd the question.

It looks to me like the piston siezed momentarily.

That is why the rod is bent.

The wrist pin was ripped out of the piston at the onset.

Think about it. How could the wrist pin be torn from the piston unless:

A) The rod was still intact on the rotating crankshaft

B) The piston was siezed in the bore.

In the case of my friend's '72 Sporster, the bent rod then entered the crankcase & was shoved out of the front of tbne engine destroying the front cylinder & the crankcase.

He had broken a ring during assembly & did not check for sufficient end gap on the ring he replaced the broken one with. As the ring W/O sufficient end gap expanded it siezed in the bore leading to the wristpin being ripped from the piston & the resuting carnage.

After everthing cooled down the piston was relatively easy to remove from the bore. The ring was all broken & embedded into the ringlands.

I would like to see PIX of the piston skirt & the rings/ringlands.
 
After reading some of his posts I get the feeling he was never happy with his mopar powertrain because he wasn't comfortable working on it. Almost troll like with the posts quoted here. Almost like he wanted to stir the pot with his multiple Chevy motor in a mopar comments
 
Its been my experience that chevy guys can destroy most anything..........
 
I say, "It's your car. Do what you want." I like straight 6's. You don't have to. While I think a Chevy powered Duzter is weird, it's not my project. When I sold my 6cylinder powered 57 Bel air the guy swapped the 6 for a 318. I also thought this was weird, but he gets kudos for originality.
 
I can understand being upset, but deserting to the enemy is beyond the pale. :) Many people have engines that fail regardless of the make or model. Just make sure be careful to analyze that you did not commit the error or you will have a repeat performance.
 
Cowboy said:
It was not denotation either the piston is in perfect condition except for where the rod was ripped out of it and can be seen still intact in my photos in the the cylinder. Worst part is now I have a turbo full of metal that I have to rebuild again.
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So the piston is stuck in the cylinder?
 
Looks like something stopped the piston,
twisted the rod and turned the piston in the bore.
It broke the piston at the pin then pulled the rod out
and started smashing stuff.

My guess: he dropped a valve or left a bolt somewhere
it could get into the cylinder.
Lets see if he produces the topside pictures.

I also believe he is a TROLL.
Evidence: http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=161730


Date: 10/11/11

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Hell with it, the slant's coming out and a good engine is going in, a Chevrolet engine. I'll stick with what I know best and what works.

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction. No wonder you MoPar guys got a bad reputation in the other groups.

Sorry to those who actually tried to help.

The slant will be sitting by the curb for local pickup. I'm outta here.
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Cowboy said:
The rod flatout failed, looking at the breaks it is obvious it was cracked for a while and eventually spread open and failed. The skirt did not cause this a weak rod caused this.
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Cowboy said:
It was not denotation either the piston is in perfect condition except for where the rod was ripped out of it and can be seen still intact in my photos in the the cylinder. Worst part is now I have a turbo full of metal that I have to rebuild again.
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So.....let me get this straight. The rod failed because it's "obvious" that it was cracked for a while and eventually failed and snapped. Although, you state that the rod was intact enough to be "ripped out of it". Which one is it?

Cowboy said:
Because Mopar parts are just too expensive to justify going through this again. The turbo is lined up for another project as well.
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Oh, yeah I know.....those slant 6 parts are just so astronomically priced.

What you did was concoct a shade-tree turbo system and bolt it on a used engine and that sucker probably spooled and boosted up so exponentially quick and high, it overevved and fragged. Your friggin' setup is hillbilly, dude......did you even have any wastegate or boost retard?!?! Either man up and admit that you took an extreme gamble by trying this (nuthin' wrong with that) or leave Mopars. The piston failed from being subjected to forces way beyond what it was designed to be. Absolutely nothing to do with the superior design of the slant 6.
 
I've learned much from this forum. Many members use formulas and algorithms way past my understanding to engineer their mods. I on the other hand, come from the school of "let's see what happens"...sometimes THIS happens
 
no matter what brand.. its all the same.. keep in mind.. if it has t*ts or tires.. it will always cost you money and headaches........
 
rmazess said:
no matter what brand.. its all the same.. keep in mind.. if it has t*ts or tires.. it will always cost you money and headaches........
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in this case if you bite the tit your going to slapped;

putting a turbo on in your back yard and blaming the engine manufacture is really childish, admit it you had that turbo spooling and the rod came out shortly after
 
PowerWagon896 said:
Correct, my money's on piston siezure.
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Right. Go back and look at the small end of the rod. I know it's a press fit there, but look how black it is. That's HEAT that caused that. Something was up there.
 
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