Things Change.. Butters is now getting a 392

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Where did you get the remote electronic pedal setup? Seems familiar but can't seem to find it.

Not sure what direction I will go but like to keep options documented.
 
DionR said:
Thanks!

DIY method?

Looks like the sensor is half to cost of the kit, they have one without the sensor for $320.

I don't need a throttle pressure cable setup either, so it opens up some other options for me as well.
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Just a little update...

Finished getting things roughed in.. Clearance made for alternator, motor shimmed into position ect. It's tight! The TTI shorties do not like moving forward. I did have to massage #3 tube to clear the PS and the pass side collector is about as close to the idler arm as I'm gonna let it get. Definitely gonna wrap tubes 1&3 to try to keep some heat off the ps box.. Is what it is.

Ordered a bunch of stuff from sublime yesterday.. Quick Harness, ECM, AC fittings, upper hose, 02 extensions etc. I really like what he's done with the quick harness. It now has fan relays built into the fuse/relay panel and also has a AC trigger.. So the oem harness AC wiring stays in tact and functional. Saved a few bucks going this route too.

I did get my 73 Idler, pitman and centerlink and mocked up. I have a better quality idler coming tho.. I bought one from rock auto that was on closeout for like $7. Well, there's a reason it was so cheap lol. It's the sloppiest piece of crap ever. TRW on the way and hopefully it's better. My pre 73 tie rod sleeves seem a little too long now. They're adjusted all the way down and I still have a kittle toe in.. but theres no weight on the car right now. I may have to cut them down and rerun the threads. I'll figure that out later...

The 904 is at a friends shop, getting ready to get some A&A goodies to handle what's coming. I already have a Bouchillion throttle pressure system for 727/904 Gen 3 swap.. need to get a new cable and flexplate ordered from them today.

I'm off all next week and during that time I plan to get the engine bay and K member painted. Also need to work on lengthening my wiring for the ecm.. the ecm plug won't reach where I need it to be.. Between the ash tray and glovebox. Plan on running the fuse box in my glove compartment unless I can squeeze in somewhere else. The AC Box takes up alot (most) of my under dash space.

Holley in tank pump, wiring and new fuel line sitting and waiting for it's turn as well

Still alot to do but my goal is april-ish.

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Nice!

So how much did you end up moving the engine forward? Looks like you cleared the AC compressor and SRV solenoid without needing the full 1.75" the Holley mounts move the motor forward.

Seems like Sublime has an extended engine harness so the plug can go through the firewall too? Did you look at that as well?

Last question; how many amps is your alternator? Might be able to gain some room if it is a big one like a 220 amp unit and you stepped down to something like a 145 or 160 amp one. Speculation on my part, so just tossing it out there.
 
DionR said:
Nice!

So how much did you end up moving the engine forward? Looks like you cleared the AC compressor and SRV solenoid without needing the full 1.75" the Holley mounts move the motor forward.

Seems like Sublime has an extended engine harness so the plug can go through the firewall too? Did you look at that as well?

Last question; how many amps is your alternator? Might be able to gain some room if it is a big one like a 220 amp unit and you stepped down to something like a 145 or 160 amp one. Speculation on my part, so just tossing it out there.
Click to expand...
Moved forward approx 5/8". I did have to chop a portion of the motor mount on the K frame to clear the AC Compressor.

Blake is "developing" an extended harness right now.. I suppose it could be available if I requested it, but the harness I have is fine.. I just need to lengthen, which is gonna suck, but I'm a tight ***. It's only 60 wires and 120 solder connections lol. I'll sit down at my solder station, which is conveniently located next to my beer fridge and get after it..1 wire at a time. My wife and I used to have a custom rustic light business (hobby) so I'm no stranger to mass amounts of soldering.

I believe the alternator is 220.. stock Scat. I didn't realize the actual body was larger than the 145/160. Ill have to compare it to the one in Hoopty. I'm pretty sure that one is tight too, but totally different application.. But if there's a chance I can trade them, I just might do that. Thanks for the heads up.
 
Dantra said:
Moved forward approx 5/8". I did have to chop a portion of the motor mount on the K frame to clear the AC Compressor.
Click to expand...

Missed that. Thanks!

Dantra said:
Blake is "developing" an extended harness right now..
Click to expand...

Maybe that's what I saw. I'm a tight *** as well so it wasn't anything I planned to spend money on so probably didn't pay enough attention.

Dantra said:
It's only 60 wires and 120 solder connections lol.
Click to expand...

If you could find another plug and cut it long, maybe you could cut that down to just just one connection.

Dantra said:
I believe the alternator is 220.. stock Scat. I didn't realize the actual body was larger than the 145/160. Ill have to compare it to the one in Hoopty. I'm pretty sure that one is tight too, but totally different application.. But if there's a chance I can trade them, I just might do that. Thanks for the heads up.
Click to expand...

Might have to stick to '11+ Eagle alternators, FYI. I know the offset on the belt from the front of the motor changed, but not sure if the alternator moved forward or if they built it into the TC cover. And the '09-10 applications don't appear to fit the '11+ motors. Just a heads up.
 
DionR said:
If you could find another plug and cut it long, maybe you could cut that down to just just one connection.



Might have to stick to '11+ Eagle alternators, FYI. I know the offset on the belt from the front of the motor changed, but not sure if the alternator moved forward or if they built it into the TC cover. And the '09-10 applications don't appear to fit the '11+ motors. Just a heads up.
Click to expand...
I do have another spare harness but it's a 5.7. Not sure how I'd feel about that tho.. I'd have to cut all the wires at once and then trust color coding or pinout location etc. get 1 wrong (which is actually 2) and it's screwed. I'd rather cut 1, splice and then move to the next. rinse and repeat.

The Eagle in Hoopty is a 2014 5.7 out of a pursuit.. I'm just not sure what size alternator it is, being a pursuit model. Crazy how expensive alternators are for these things...
 
Dantra said:
I do have another spare harness but it's a 5.7. Not sure how I'd feel about that tho.. I'd have to cut all the wires at once and then trust color coding or pinout location etc. get 1 wrong (which is actually 2) and it's screwed. I'd rather cut 1, splice and then move to the next. rinse and repeat.
Click to expand...

Oh, really good point. Didn't even cross my mind that cutting them off in bulk would introduce the potential for getting wires crossed. Add that the pinouts could have changed too, if the harness aren't the same.

I don't like splices myself, so I try and limit them when I can. Not sure which direction I would go if
I was in your shoes though.

Dantra said:
The Eagle in Hoopty is a 2014 5.7 out of a pursuit.. I'm just not sure what size alternator it is, being a pursuit model. Crazy how expensive alternators are for these things...
Click to expand...

I found one listing that showed "Pursuit" on RA and it was for a 220 amp unit. Betting there won't be any different between the two you have.

Maybe find a lower amp unit locally and take yours in to the store and set them side by side? Then you don't have to spend any money to see if it is actually different.
 
DionR said:
Maybe find a lower amp unit locally and take yours in to the store and set them side by side? Then you don't have to spend any money to see if it is actually different.
Click to expand...
I'll ask G3 Hemi Swap group (Another good good group if you're not already there)
 
A little cleanup before getting too far into the swap. Found a carquest just over 39 miles away with a scanner. Carquests color scanner got it close enough for me.. Grabbed a quart and a few aerosols. Hope to have it in color by the weekend.

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Engine bay cleaned up and painted. Slapped the power brake booster back in and made up some new lines.. Those aren't copper BTW. Copper coated for corrosion resistance. The residuals valves are due to the MC being for disc brakes but I'm still currently drums. I need to maintain 10 psi on drums.. Disc's coming in the future. 1 thing at a time here.

The 904 should be back before the weekend. Fully built using A&A goods to handle what I'm throwing at it. So I should be able to get the engine/trans back in maybe this weekend, for the last time. Have a few things to do to it prior.. Add water ports for front heater hose supply lines, a little paint ect.

Still have a pretty good list if "to do" but I believe my April goal is still within sight.

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Looking great!! Not even my car and I can't wait for it to run!! :thumbsup:
 
Started to put the battery in the trunk and figured that I should probably go ahead and paint it first...

Added a kill switch and a larger than expected bussbar. More stuff to check of the list.

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Veery nice i like how you have managed to get the engine forward to not notch the wall. I want to do the same, thinking the holley kit as crazy cheap currently and then either get custom headers made or cut up the tti ones to fit. What did you have to do for the 904 to bolt up to the 6.4?
 
Dantra said:
Just a little update...

Finished getting things roughed in.. Clearance made for alternator, motor shimmed into position ect. It's tight! The TTI shorties do not like moving forward. I did have to massage #3 tube to clear the PS and the pass side collector is about as close to the idler arm as I'm gonna let it get. Definitely gonna wrap tubes 1&3 to try to keep some heat off the ps box.. Is what it is.

Ordered a bunch of stuff from sublime yesterday.. Quick Harness, ECM, AC fittings, upper hose, 02 extensions etc. I really like what he's done with the quick harness. It now has fan relays built into the fuse/relay panel and also has a AC trigger.. So the oem harness AC wiring stays in tact and functional. Saved a few bucks going this route too.

I did get my 73 Idler, pitman and centerlink and mocked up. I have a better quality idler coming tho.. I bought one from rock auto that was on closeout for like $7. Well, there's a reason it was so cheap lol. It's the sloppiest piece of crap ever. TRW on the way and hopefully it's better. My pre 73 tie rod sleeves seem a little too long now. They're adjusted all the way down and I still have a kittle toe in.. but theres no weight on the car right now. I may have to cut them down and rerun the threads. I'll figure that out later...

The 904 is at a friends shop, getting ready to get some A&A goodies to handle what's coming. I already have a Bouchillion throttle pressure system for 727/904 Gen 3 swap.. need to get a new cable and flexplate ordered from them today.

I'm off all next week and during that time I plan to get the engine bay and K member painted. Also need to work on lengthening my wiring for the ecm.. the ecm plug won't reach where I need it to be.. Between the ash tray and glovebox. Plan on running the fuse box in my glove compartment unless I can squeeze in somewhere else. The AC Box takes up alot (most) of my under dash space.

Holley in tank pump, wiring and new fuel line sitting and waiting for it's turn as well

Still alot to do but my goal is april-ish.

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I have all the holley mounting gear, u are about half way to where holley would sit, in your eyes much fab work required if i cut up the tti headers to suit?
 
Ozyduster said:
I have all the holley mounting gear, u are about half way to where holley would sit, in your eyes much fab work required if i cut up the tti headers to suit?
Click to expand...
I wish I could cut and move that one tube just a little..
 
Ozyduster said:
Veery nice i like how you have managed to get the engine forward to not notch the wall. I want to do the same, thinking the holley kit as crazy cheap currently and then either get custom headers made or cut up the tti ones to fit. What did you have to do for the 904 to bolt up to the 6.4?
Click to expand...
The 904 bolts right up.. Just need a flexplae from Bouchillon ($120) You'll need a way to control kick down. There's a few ways... Or you can go manual valve body
 
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Dantra said:
The 994 bolts right up.. Just need a flexplae from Bouchillon ($120) You'll need a way to control kick down. There's a few ways... Or you can go manual valve body
Click to expand...
I thought there was a dowel or something it didnt have, yea i would of run a cable kick down regardless i know has to be spot on with adjustment. Have thought about going full manual as will spend a bit of money on the box. Spent nearly 5k on my 4l60e in my other car so realise its not a cheap exercise. But have a few mates making well over 500hp with a 904
 
Ozyduster said:
I thought there was a dowel or something it didnt have, yea i would of run a cable kick down regardless i know has to be spot on with adjustment. Have thought about going full manual as will spend a bit of money on the box. Spent nearly 5k on my 4l60e in my other car so realise its not a cheap exercise. But have a few mates making well over 500hp with a 904
Click to expand...
Bolts right up... You have to grind a little bit on a block boss to make a little clearance for the starter. Using a later model small block starter.. Smaller
 
Thought I posted this already...

Thiscosst weekend, I got the 804 all mated up, starter on, harness mostly in place and moved my water inlet/outlets up front.. I'm running the factory AC and need the heater shutoff valve. So this works for me.

Was ready to drop everything in but found that my oil filter adapter wasn't gonna work for me. It was a knock off 90 degree thing. Ran the oil filter right into the mounting perch. So I'm waiting on a Mopar one. Should be here by the weekend

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