Time for 727 rebuild.

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I went with the cope racing bolt in, I think it’s about 100 bucks for the stock modified four bolt. There’s better sprags out there for more money. But a stocker should be fine if you’re on a budget.
 
Ill be doing one soon. 1 thing I haven't seen is a tutorial on is removing and replacing the bushings. Any insight on that would be great.
 
Question on torque converter. I am sending emails to different companies. Which Dynamic is the one everyone recommends? If you google dynamic torque converter you get 3 different companies. Where are they located?
 
scott657 said:
Ill be doing one soon. 1 thing I haven't seen is a tutorial on is removing and replacing the bushings. Any insight on that would be great.
Click to expand...

I am dropping mine off at a local shop. He is not busy and could use the business. He has always been fair with me in the past.

The tailshaft I just cut a groove in with hack saw blade. Then push in on itself. It will split then pull it out. I use on old valve from a Chevy to drive it in.
 
swifty said:
I cleaned it up with emory cloth and sanded down the support with some 180 grit. Was able to get it in with a block of wood and some tapping. Real tight. I think I will take a little more off and put it in the freezer.

Next question, my sprag was a little loose and some of the spring tabs were bent. I took it out and it has quite a bit of wear. So I plan on replacing it. Should I look at a bolt in or is a regular one good enough for my application?
Click to expand...

I would definitely replace it...bolt in if you have the coin...

Jeff
 
I disassembled valve body and cleaned up. One thing I found was I only have 6 check balls. Unfortunately one of the six fell out during disassembly so I am not sure were it goes. The pockets I circled did not have check balls.

Inkedsteel balls_LI.jpg


I found on some shift kits the red marked ball is sometimes removed. Is this right or should I get another steel ball?
 
Just follow the shift kit instructions. There are several different variations on check balls. But you should post a pic of YOUR valve body because there are sometimes subtle differences.
 
I do not know what kind of shift kit it has. There is no spring under accumulator or rod. A cup with hole in this passage.
20200417_193121.jpg


This passage could be drilled out.
20200418_105450.jpg


Anything else to look for to help identify?
 
I have trans together to check clearances.
The gear train endplay was .018.
Input shaft .077
Front clutch with a flat snap ring .074
Rear clutch .032.

Input shaft is within tolerance but barely. Look at tightening up?

Front clutch is 4 disc Red Eagles. Should I have more clearance. Should I also have a wavy snap ring?

One other thing I found odd was the front clutch only had 8 springs. I found from from Tom Hand book it should have 9. This is a 72 360 trans. Any thoughts?
 
I like a wavy snap ring in the front drum to make the reverse engagement softer; unless you have a stall converter. Those come with usually a thick washer and a thin washer between the drums and at the pump; so I usually run two thins at the pump an a thick between the drums, or you could get a thicker button for the front of the output shaft. Maybe run three thins altogether with no thick; might get you down to .040 end play. But only put one thrust between the drums. I like a little more clearance than .032 in the forward clutch; like .050
 
Let me start over for endplay. I did not have tail shaft on when I checked because I was waiting for bushing driver. Now is .058. Is that still too loose?

If I switch around snap rings I could get .046 on rear clutch. But then I would need a thin snap ring for front. With a flat snap ring on front and 4 discs what should the front clearance be?
 
Does any one have TF-2 instructions link or copy they can email? I can't seem to fine one.
 
I like endplay about .020. Put the pump in a vise and air apply the clutch packs; the clearance will open up when the extra fluid is squished out.
 
Just want to verify something when it comes to input shaft endplay. I just pushed in and then measured pulling out about .060. I see some people stand it on output shaft. If i push the input shaft in. then push in the output shaft to take out bearing play, then measure, I get .040. Is that good? What is the proper procedure?
 
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