I think what many are missing is the cam timing and the dist. timing are two separate procedures. Dist. requires finding TDC compression stroke #1 cly. Cam / crank does not.
Follow the procedure in FSM and you won't have any issues
Timing chain
- Thread starter moparmandan
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Follow the procedure in FSM and you won't have any issues
67Dart273
Well-Known Member
Sorry LOL I had to go to work.
I understand that is how you do it and have no problems. I on the other hand, don't set the distributor in until the engine and trans is bolted in the car. Plus I am moving the crank all the time adjusting valves and what not. The fool proof method is to find TDC on the compression stroke and drop the distributor in so it fires #1.
No worries. It happens. Thanks for your input.
Straightened out the rest of the wiring issues, tried again, fired right up. Then died. And would not run in IGN run. So I tried the brand new ECU with the dirty dented box. Nothin. Nada. Zip. Shocker.
Back to the old ECU. Again, fires on IGN 2 won't run on IGN 1. Classic ballast fail, right? Swapped ballast, same result. Jumpered hot wire to coil. BAZINGA! Returning ECU and picking up replacement later.
So for not having tuned the carb at all, I'm happy. However, as soon as you crack the throttle at all, it stalls, stumbles or backfires. More to come.
Back to the old ECU. Again, fires on IGN 2 won't run on IGN 1. Classic ballast fail, right? Swapped ballast, same result. Jumpered hot wire to coil. BAZINGA! Returning ECU and picking up replacement later.
So for not having tuned the carb at all, I'm happy. However, as soon as you crack the throttle at all, it stalls, stumbles or backfires. More to come.
It does not say where you are in fig 26, agreed. But what I always figured was the Chrysler engineers meant for the two paragraphs to be used together. Set it up dot to dot for six, that's in step 11, for the timing chain. Then roll it around to one and drop in the distributor, that's in step 1 of "Distributor Timing"
Seemed logical to me.
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69FBCuda
Stand back 10' for your viewing pleasure & Safety
Straight edge, center of the crank to the center of the cam bolt. Mine is 180 out but you should get the idea.
Take the fuel pump concentric off for a more accurate look. Straight line point A(crank) to point B(cam)
Take the fuel pump concentric off for a more accurate look. Straight line point A(crank) to point B(cam)
It is and you and I get it.......but some folks need a clear picture. Not saying anyone is stupid, but for instance, certain things I need a picture of instead of an explanation. We all understand things and receive input differently.
1973_Scamp
Well-Known Member
I'm not it forum for a long time. While you're at it, it would be nice to add a tensioner. you wont regret.
Wwelllllll that is probably a good idea, but that ship has sailed. Engine is assembled and running.
And after a quick carb tune, running good! Raps up fine now. Thanks to all my FABO brothers!
I have lost 3 timing chains. 2 had tensioners, one had nylon teeth over cast gear. No tensioner for me.
1969cuda
Well-Known Member
Who makes the best timing chain for a 318 la, Cloyes?
Interesting. Elaborate please, if you would. By lost do you mean broke, jumped timing, flew out of the engine and couldn't find it? Do you think the tensioner had anything to do with it?
Best? I can't help you. I used a Comp Cam that I had laying around the shop. Anything that doesn't have nylon teeth is a step up. LOL. I would think any of the big names like Melling, Cloyes, Edelbrock etc. would be good.
One the chain sheared, link type not roller type, my theory... chunk of plastic (i found many pieces ) from the guide got between teeth and chain. Chain couldn't crush it so chain sheared.
Two, guide came apart and chain skipped a few teeth.
Three, nylon teeth on cast cam gear, 160000 miles nylon cracked away and chain skipped a few teeth ( anyone want to guess what engine that was? Hint not mopar)
Any of them that's a "billet race" version. If you pay under 100 bucks foe a set, that ain't it.
I saw I think a 70's 351W with a plastic cam gear once. Did I win?
Small block Chevy every 70,000 in PU trucks. Chevrolet made me a lot of money. Still won't look at one for myself 40 years later...
Very close! but no, the last of the 289s had them and I got one
.I think they were also in the 302's and the 351's as well, till Ford finally gave up on the idea. The funny thing about that one was I had a how to rebuild Ford engines book and it warned that at about 150,000 miles the gear would go. Wish I had read that BEFORE the gear went!
Krooser
Building Chinese Free Engines since 1959...
The last sets I've used we're from S.A. and Howard's. About $50.00 for a double roller. Some guys have said Cloyes quaility has dropped a bit on their castings. Don't have first hand knowledge.
I have an S.A. in stock on my shelf. I also have a 25 lap used Cloyes on the shelf.
I have an S.A. in stock on my shelf. I also have a 25 lap used Cloyes on the shelf.
CNC-Dude
Well-Known Member
That is true for most every style V8. The reason the cam timing is done dot to dot is because it's much easier to get them aligned when they are closer together such as the 6 o'clock/12 o'clock orientation. Imagine how many times you would have to install/reinstall the timing sets to get it perfectly aligned if you used the 12 o'clock/12 o'clock orientation. Most people don't realize that the dots on the timing set end up at 12 o'clock/12 o'clock to correctly install the distributor because the timing cover is already installed. Yes it can be confusing, but as has been mentioned and confirmed by several others, it really is two separate and different procedures, but are often confused as being one in the same.
On my last build I ended up using a Summit double roller, it came in with a 1/2 degree of what the cam card said.
I had a Comp chain that was not worth the metal it was made out of, it must have had all seconds thrown in that box.
20 year old Mopar Performance I had new in the package was perfect.
Lastly I always liked cloyes, the last one I had rocked 4 degrees on the cam key-way, maybe I just got a bad one, but you have to check them all.
I had a Comp chain that was not worth the metal it was made out of, it must have had all seconds thrown in that box.
20 year old Mopar Performance I had new in the package was perfect.
Lastly I always liked cloyes, the last one I had rocked 4 degrees on the cam key-way, maybe I just got a bad one, but you have to check them all.
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