Trick flow heads how are they ?

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So if you're able to have your cam degree to the perfect degree and you're able to keep your temperatures down to the perfect temperature then you can use pump gas? Should we also drive this car in Fantasyland? LOL.. That's why I was saying in a previous thread that people need a little leeway... 90% of the people aren't going to read some Guru article on how to perfectly set there cam and even if they did 90% of those people ain't going to do it themselves anyways.. you know that 90% of the people here aren't going to need those extra points of compression as they're not trying to eke out the last 10th at the drag strip...


It’s very easy to degree a cam. Everyone building stuff like this should be doing it. It’s not hard and the tools to do it are relatively cheap. Skimping on the cooling system is just nuts. How hard is it to buy the correct size and core radiator? I can’t imagine not using a high volume water pump. Last Milodon I bought was under 80 bucks. A Stewart Components thermostat is under 20 bucks ( I think...been awhile since I bought one but they are cheap money...not parts store junk cheap, but cheap for what you get) and flow is a big deal. So is getting the correct drive pulleys. Most guys are running OE pulley and chrysler made the correct ones, so they are out there.

When you add it all up, doing it correctly is simple and relatively cheap. Especially if you end up needing to mix in some race fuel just to drive the car. It doesn’t take long before the cost and hassle of mixing race gas it’s much more irritating than just building the system correctly to start with.
 
What would be nice is if this cam triangulation website was posted right next to the sticky for how to choose a cam or how to choose a cam video on the Race part of the forum..


Your wish is my command
https://mgispeedware.com/camshaft-calculator/

You can plug in your cam timing and look at what you have. You can also see the overlap triangle and how moving the ICL moves it off center.
 
It’s very easy to degree a cam. Everyone building stuff like this should be doing it. It’s not hard and the tools to do it are relatively cheap. Skimping on the cooling system is just nuts. How hard is it to buy the correct size and core radiator? I can’t imagine not using a high volume water pump. Last Milodon I bought was under 80 bucks. A Stewart Components thermostat is under 20 bucks ( I think...been awhile since I bought one but they are cheap money...not parts store junk cheap, but cheap for what you get) and flow is a big deal. So is getting the correct drive pulleys. Most guys are running OE pulley and chrysler made the correct ones, so they are out there.

When you add it all up, doing it correctly is simple and relatively cheap. Especially if you end up needing to mix in some race fuel just to drive the car. It doesn’t take long before the cost and hassle of mixing race gas it’s much more irritating than just building the system correctly to start with.
You won't get anybody to agree with you more on mixing gas being a pain in the ***! you know what I want to do just drop my compression one point and call it a day... I have the slowest Stroker motor on the entire forum so one more tenth slower ain't going to kill me...
 
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You won't get anybody to agree with you more on mixing gas being a pain in the ***! you know what I want to do just drop my compression one point and call it a day... I have the slowest Stroker motor on the entire forum so one more tenth slower ain't going to kill me...

LOL. That made my day!!!!!! The last part is just classic. When Ted gets done finger fondling your SM heads you can bolt those on and see what happens.
 
LOL. That made my day!!!!!! The last part is just classic. When Ted gets done finger fondling your SM heads you can bolt those on and see what happens.
Of course that jacket got dropped on my motor by someone who has posted their fastest time slip of a 13-3.. in an a body Mopar..
 
You won't get anybody to agree with you more on mixing gas being a pain in the ***! you know what I want to do just drop my compression one point and call it a day... I have the slowest Stroker motor on the entire forum so one more tenth slower ain't going to kill me...

LOL. That made my day!!!!!! The last part is just classic. When Ted gets done finger fondling your SM heads you can bolt those on and see what happens.

Of course that jacket got dropped on my motor by someone who has posted their fastest time slip of a 13-3.. in an a body Mopar..
How am I supposed to get anything done in the shop, when there is such good entertainment here???!!!
 
I'm hoping the heads and cam change will get me deep in the 11's. I was running 12.3's with unknown cam and X heads
 
Have you done a measurement on the base circle and on the lobe and subtracted the difference to see how much lift you did have?..
I would reckon that would start you in a ballpark figure of where you're at as opposed to where you're going..
 
A lot of people are expecting these trick flow heads to work some kind of magic but really the gurus will point out it will be in the combination....
 
I'll check that out tonight and let you know. Maybe somebody needs a cam for their project
like I was saying the trick flow heads are great and all but it's going to boil down to a combination. Look back and I didn't see mention your gears or tires and I'm going to go out on a limb and assume you have an automatic. And the first thing everybody's going to ask about besides that is your torque converter...
But you're talking to the king of mismatched combination and the Forums slowest Stroker...
 
70 Dart, 360 stock bottom end, trick flow heads, 250/254@50 584/588 at 106LSA Bullet cam, Edelbrock RPM air gap, Holley 750DP, 904 Auto with 3500 stall and 3:91 gears in an 8 3/4 rear with super stock springs mopar drag shocks and running M/T pro bracket radials 26.0/8.5R15
Edit: 8 point roll bar and Jegs racing buckets also going in and back seat is out
 
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70 Dart, 360 stock bottom end, trick flow heads, 250/254@50 584/588 at 106LSA Bullet cam, Edelbrock RPM air gap, Holley 750DP, 904 Auto with 3500 stall and 3:91 gears in an 8 3/4 rear with super stock springs mopar drag shocks and running M/T pro bracket radials 26.0/8.5R15
Nice combination... it does really boil down in my opinion to how much or Cam you're going to have... I believe that this level you're still very under optimizing those heads and possibly even giving them in this application more credit than you're going to receive... Personally I would be hoping for an extra half-second quicker at the track and thankful for anything more than that...
When you did your 12-3 where were you at with your 60-foot time?...
 
I'll be happy with any gains I get. My 60 foot times were 1.64-1.66 very consistent crossing the stripe at 106mph at 6200rpm. Also have frame ties welded in and 1.5 Crane gold rockers
 
I'll be happy with any gains I get. My 60 foot times were 1.64-1.66 very consistent crossing the stripe at 106mph at 6200rpm. Also have frame ties welded in and 1.5 Crane gold rockers
That sounds very good! Any horsepower games will be obvious on your Time Slips..
 
I've had them since they came out. They work. Had some gnarly detonation issues, even with 110/91 mix..(bad combo of everything, didn't have the det problems with the other heads and bigger chambers). Got it all sorted I think, 11.75:1 30degrees total timing, no sounds or signs of detonation with 91 pump.


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I've had them since they came out. They work. Had some gnarly detonation issues, even with 110/91 mix..(bad combo of everything, didn't have the det problems with the other heads and bigger chambers). Got it all sorted I think, 11.75:1 30degrees total timing, no sounds or signs of detonation with 91 pump.


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Sounds good but it also sounds like it's idling a bit fast?...
What mix are you using?...
 
Sounds good but it also sounds like it's idling a bit fast?...
What mix are you using?...
that is with 91... it is idling fast... just fixed some stuff and got the engine back in. Still need to change and tweak some things.
 
You won't get anybody to agree with you more on mixing gas being a pain in the ***! you know what I want to do just drop my compression one point and call it a day... I have the slowest Stroker motor on the entire forum so one more tenth slower ain't going to kill me...

For convenience , forget the race fuel, add some b 12 chemtool to ur gas, it has 5 diff things in it that are octane boosters . check it out.
 
The best fuel additives are octane boosters and fuel conditioners. They are chelated.

There are two I know of. One is Torco Accelerator and the other I can’t remember.

I’ve used the Torco in a ton of different stuff, including my dirt bikes. They condition the fuel and help burn all the extra junk that is in pump fuel. You can see how much cleaner they burn by the exhaust ports and the exhaust itself.
 
The best fuel additives are octane boosters and fuel conditioners. They are chelated.

There are two I know of. One is Torco Accelerator and the other I can’t remember.

I’ve used the Torco in a ton of different stuff, including my dirt bikes. They condition the fuel and help burn all the extra junk that is in pump fuel. You can see how much cleaner they burn by the exhaust ports and the exhaust itself.

I used to use torrco untill it went too high in price . chemtool is way cheaper , altho I dont use it anymore, 93 is working for me ----------
 
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