TTI 1 7/8 Headers hitting oil pan

Mopar Exhaust Systems

  1. 72bluNblu

    72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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    Have you done it?

    Because I’m pretty sure he won’t have to pull the headers to drop the pan. The road race pan has all of its kick outs below the headers. It will be harder to access the bolts, but if the steering link is dropped the oil pan can be dropped out.

    And the engine doesn’t need to come out to pull the headers either. I’ve removed and replaced the Doug’s on my 340 in the car with the engine still on the mounts. Even with the road race oil pan in place. Personally, I’d leave the pan alone and drop the headers again. They’re the easier part to modify, and you don’t have to mess with resealing the pan. Yeah pulling the headers is a pain, but I don’t see how it’s avoidable.

    Even if he had to do all that to drop the pan, he’s gonna have to do it anyway after he holes the pan with that spoon. Better to do it before the pan is damaged than after.
     
    Last edited: Apr 17, 2019
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    • SGBARRACUDA

      SGBARRACUDA ROY FABO Gold Member

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      Anyone can beat the pan or headers to achieve clearance. Drop the pan and do it right. I had a simular problem with a Milodon pan not clearing my power rack and pinion. Read here to see what I did to solve it.
      RMS in a 68 Barracuda, oil pan problems
       
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      • mbaird

        mbaird mbaird

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        I just went through this on my Barracuda with Dougs 1 5/8 and a stock pan.
        I had to lift the engine ...remove the Torision bar and loosen headers in order to remove oil pan. This for a main seal replacement.

        I cant see any way to do it that way on my Dart with 1 7/8 and that pan with the kick out. He might not have to pull engine entirely but damn near !
         
      • 72bluNblu

        72bluNblu FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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        Oh I agree- it won’t be easy either way.

        I just think his odds of successfully clearancing that header and oil pan with everything installed is about the same as winning the powerball. I know that with my luck, if I tried making space with a hammer, a clamp and a tire spoon I’d probably ruin the header AND the oil pan and have to pull all of it out anyway. So, better to just pull one or the other first. Or both. Pulling it all after you’ve totaled $1k+ worth of parts will be really disheartening.
         
      • mbaird

        mbaird mbaird

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        I dont disagree with you at all... He will have to pull the engine. I am saying to drop the engine ( or lift the body off it) to do it. Once you have done it this way you will never do it otherwise.
         
      • rumblefish360

        rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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        1: Send TTI pictures, talk to them.
        2: No luck in talking to them? That leaves on option for me.

        HAMMER TIME

         
      • famous bob

        famous bob mopar misfit

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        If a guy is careful, he might be able to heat it close to cherry red with a small torch, and spoon it a little for clearance.
        I did it w/ a pair of big channel locks after heating the #2 tube , but was not on the car, not enough room while next to the valve cover, and had to protect the tube from the teeth on the channel locks.--------
         
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        • diymirage

          diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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          pointless, TTI will say "talk to milodon"
          milodon will say "talk to TTI"
           
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          • ScampMike

            ScampMike Despicable Damn Yankee

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            I have tried fixing different issues over the years with the BFH method... aka: cob job... it rarely works out, especially on something this big, and then when you're done you still have the initial problem plus the added repairs from using the BFH/cob job method. JM2C.
             
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            • TrailBeast

              TrailBeast AKA Mopars4us on Youtube

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              "Ok Trail, what would you do if this was your car?"

              I'm so glad you asked.

              I would pull that pan and mod it like this and then wrap that tube with header wrap all the way back past the pan.
              The heat produced under heavy throttle is going to cook the oil running down the inside of the pan.

              Dart 23.jpg
               
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              • mbaird

                mbaird mbaird

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                Speaking of which I should wrap portions of my headers for I start driving it.
                 
              • moparspares

                moparspares Well-Known Member

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                I did this when my TTi's hit steering box, coupler, chassis rail etc. Would have got more from talking to a brick wall. Useless!
                 
              • mbaird

                mbaird mbaird

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                Is the header keeping the pan from seating properly or just barely touching ?
                If it is barely touching I would heat the tube and use a wedge of some sort to gain a wee bit more clearance then wrap the tube after.
                If it is interfearing then it will be a lot more work.
                 
              • Walker434

                Walker434 Well-Known Member

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                There is ABSOLUTLEY no way to pull this pan while still in the car. A lot of people are talking about what they did with their 1 5/8 headers in their A bodies. BIG difference when you have 1 7/8 headers with 3 1/2 inch collectors in an A body.

                Anyway. Good news, I used a C clamp and a small pry bar with some heat and got some clearance. Now I believe I can use the spoon and the C clamps to get acceptable clearance and wrap a portion of the header. I'll keep you posted.
                 
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                • 67autocross

                  67autocross A new iron curtain drawn across the 49th parallel

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                  Hopefully the pan doesn’t leak on you... l just witnessed a new Milodon pan leak all over the dyno. Sad part was it has to come off to fix it but at least it wasn’t in the car.
                   
                • mbaird

                  mbaird mbaird

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                  Good to hear ! I wouldnt worry to much about it as long as its not touching and you have some header wrap on the tube
                   
                • Walker434

                  Walker434 Well-Known Member

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                  Update: I still wasn't satisfied with the clearance I got with the heat and C clamp. I pulled the engine and took the oil pan to my fabrication friend.... this is what I got back. Figured I better just do it right and be done with it. Also wrapped that header tube since the engine was out. All should be good now. Is this pan zinc coated? Should I just spray some engine paint on the pan or does it need to be some sort of zinc coating?

                  Dart 25.jpg
                   
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                  • mopardude318

                    mopardude318 Well-Known Member

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                    Looks good. Nice work. I’d use gold spray paint and call it good. Krylon that shit. ;)
                     
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                    • yellow rose

                      yellow rose Walking the crooked mile

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                      That's a nice fix. Rattle can that thing and go drive.
                       
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                      • diymirage

                        diymirage HP@idle > hondaHP@redline

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                        good call (see post #4)
                        i would paint it gold and call it good, in fact, that what i did when i owned one of these pans, and had to have it fixed some)

                        on a side note, kudos to your fabricator buddy, his welds look much better then the stock welds on that pan
                         
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                        • jimjimjimmy

                          jimjimjimmy lobsterman FABO Gold Member

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                          now that's the proper fix , very nice .
                           
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                          • rumblefish360

                            rumblefish360 So close, yet so far away FABO Gold Member

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                            Oh hell ya!
                             
                          • Walker434

                            Walker434 Well-Known Member

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                            Thanks guys. It was definitely worth pulling the engine for. His welding skills are phenomenal. Now I just need life to slow down a bit so I can put the engine back in LOL.
                             
                          • gzig5

                            gzig5 Well-Known Member

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                            I want to say that is Cadmium plating, but could be some form of zinc. Paint will work fine for corrosion resistance. I'd use a hi-temp or engine paint since it is still pretty close to that header tube. Congrats on doing it the right way. Hard to make that choice sometimes.
                             
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                            • TheGrateRonzini

                              TheGrateRonzini FABO Gold Member FABO Gold Member

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                              I have TTI 440-200 on my notch with that pan and they clear no problem... out of the box to boot. I had to hammer on the road race pan to clear the qa1 K member though
                               
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