TTI Exhaust on Early A's

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904. It doesn't look like it will come out without loosening/removing the headers, either. Fun. Mine is going to need freshening this winter.
 
really?
I had a ton of the starter hitting... strange.
 
Don't get me wrong, I think tti does a great job.....but the consistancy is a little hazy. I followed the instructions to a tee, but still had to modify things to make the headers work. The biggest hassle was moving the brake lines. My prop valve is in the stock location, and I know the headers would have hit the lines on the original drum brake setup. And yet, I gained clearance in other areas from the Doug's. But the headers work! The first run with the new 408 was a 12.08 @ 5800' altitude. Hopefully 11's soon.
 
I agree. If I could custom TIG stainless that's the route I would go.
 
DJVCUDA said:
I got them from here:

http://www.engine-swaps.com/
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NOTE: '63-66 A-body Poly-Locs are designed for use with SCS conversion kits; they are not compatible with original '63-66 A-body brackets.

;-(

I posted this right after looking at the website so I didnt see the follow up. Remionder to ones self: Dont buy these.. Ill just make my own...again. But to those that have no fitment issues, great.
 
pishta said:
NOTE: '63-66 A-body Poly-Locs are designed for use with SCS conversion kits; they are not compatible with original '63-66 A-body brackets.

;-(

I posted this right after looking at the website so I didnt see the follow up. Remionder to ones self: Dont buy these.. Ill just make my own...again. But to those that have no fitment issues, great.
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they are saying they have to use the new poly loc mounts with the brackets, because of the bolt locations on the mount they require a hole in a different location , so one goes with the other.

Great design, just not enough room with my 1" bars and such
 
DJVCUDA said:
they are saying they have to use the new poly loc mounts with the brackets, because of the bolt locations on the mount they require a hole in a different location , so one goes with the other.

Great design, just not enough room with my 1" bars and such
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I'm sure you double checked the dimensions TTI mensions on their site re: hieght from crank center to k-frame....and off-center to frame rails...???? Ck'd mine yesterday and it's dead on.

Rickster
 
rickstershemi said:
I'm sure you double checked the dimensions TTI mensions on their site re: hieght from crank center to k-frame....and off-center to frame rails...???? Ck'd mine yesterday and it's dead on.

Rickster
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I had it where they want - i had to move it 1/4 to the drivers side - both sides of the tubes were hitting the t-bars intill i shifted everything over.
 
got about 500 miles on the setup now - took it to carlisle and back - alot more power then my old setup -I gotta schedule dyno time now to get the H vs X pipe stuff done.

the headers are close to the t-bars and they touch at idle - i can hear them vibrating - so I gotta see if the motor moved over the weekend after my shakedown - and adjust accordingly.
 
DJVCUDA said:
got about 500 miles on the setup now - took it to carlisle and back - alot more power then my old setup -I gotta schedule dyno time now to get the H vs X pipe stuff done.

the headers are close to the t-bars and they touch at idle - i can hear them vibrating - so I gotta see if the motor moved over the weekend after my shakedown - and adjust accordingly.
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Glad to hear you got it together Dave and the power improved. Will be interesting to see the diff in the x vs. h-pipe. Did you end up massaging them?
 
I did try to fit the schumacher mounts in and tapped a few spots to try - since it was a no go I really didnt need to ding them, but it is what it is now.
 
DJVCUDA said:
got about 500 miles on the setup now - took it to carlisle and back - alot more power then my old setup -I gotta schedule dyno time now to get the H vs X pipe stuff done.

the headers are close to the t-bars and they touch at idle - i can hear them vibrating - so I gotta see if the motor moved over the weekend after my shakedown - and adjust accordingly.
Click to expand...

Congrats on getting the install complete....Will be interesting to see your dyno results since the only comparison I've seen only showed a peak 20hp gain over the hipo manifolds...??????

Rickster
 
65Vsignet said:
How did you route you cable for the shifter or do you have a stick car?
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I have a /6 car originally - and it has a column shift. I still have it in there.

I needed to modify the column for the last headers and it helped the situation this time - along with re-working a rod - other then that it fits fine.
 
rickstershemi said:
Congrats on getting the install complete....Will be interesting to see your dyno results since the only comparison I've seen only showed a peak 20hp gain over the hipo manifolds...??????

Rickster
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Rick - I had 71 - 340 manifolds ( i didnt forget !!) and te car went 13.3 @ 102

I went to a shorty spitfire and it went to a 12.80 @ 108 - no other changes.

Online calcs make that an easy 30 hp difference.

I'm curious to see if there is a difference from the short tube to the long tube.
 
DJVCUDA said:
Rick - I had 71 - 340 manifolds ( i didnt forget !!) and te car went 13.3 @ 102

I went to a shorty spitfire and it went to a 12.80 @ 108 - no other changes.

Online calcs make that an easy 30 hp difference.

I'm curious to see if there is a difference from the short tube to the long tube.
Click to expand...

Hope for your sake it's even more.....the time slip is always the best dyno....if it's only one change at a time...!!!!!!

I would be interested in hearing about any vibration or unwanted noise due to some of the install pics ^^^^^^^ I'm seeing showing tubes rubbing frame, torsion bars etc. ???????

Rickster
 
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