TTI Exhaust on Early A's

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sorry - no updates yet - I have not had the time - after the silly season I will get on it!
 
I will take some pics of my headers and post them, anothor area that is tough is the brake valve down on the frame if you leave it in the stock location very tight fit, and i had to shim my motor also, the passenger side T bar and the frame is very close i believe that i will have to move the whole header over to fit right.
 
I'd like to see a picture from underneath showing how low the collectors hang down from the frame rails, K-frame, and trans pan.
 
Getting very close to pulling the trigger on the same system but need to call them to discuss fitment with a Quicktime bellhousing....?????

Rickster
 
DJVCUDA said:
Picked up a set of poly-loc mounts to help keep the motor in the correct location.

My mounts are kinda new, 4-5 years old, but those huge thick rubber isolators start to sag sooner or later.
Click to expand...

What is the compressed dimension of a new thick rubber biscuit? I got some and they are pretty squat looking and in designing some headers with scant clearance so I need to find out correct height of New mounts. Or your poly-loc mounts (where do you get those?) Might end up making spacers and running the "grilled cheese" later mounts if I cant get the thick ones to work out.
 
I put a 2 1/2" tti system in my 64 Barracuda. I ended up basicly starting at both ends and finishing up with the center H pipe, I think I had to cut 7" from the rear of the H pipe.
I have original engine brackets and OEM insulators but couldn't get my engine to the centerline dimension that tti gives as correct location.
I have a 904 and used my manifolds, the pass side front pipe wouldn't fit. I had to trim the pass side trans/engine brace with a hacksaw to clear the pipe. I also used a BFH on that pipe to get some clearance at the pass torsion bar.
The park brake cables I left in place after cuting off one guide - they just lay on top of the pipes.
Hacksaw also took care of the oil filter mount bolt.
I like the tti pipes better than a set I had installed on my 65 by an exhaust shop.
 
got started - after a few months delay...lol


Not an easy install by any means - we shall see if the power gains make it worth the trouble.
 
[ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FFqp7CIoR4g&feature=feedf"]YouTube - ‪71 Duster with Dynomax‬‏[/ame]

X-pipe with Dynomax Ultra Flows...I personally like the newer V8 sound caused from the x-pipe...It gets a heck of a lot more compliments now than it did with the Flowmasters...either way yours will sound awesome!
 
sounds good!



Had to get the RobbMc starter - the ministarter, or stock starter does not clear

The RobbMc starter hit the block, I dont know if it's my block but I'll snap a few pix and get them to RobbMc for him to take a look
 
I am also curious about which crossover you end up with. My 340 has headers that dump into mufflers and from them down in front of the rear end to the pavement. No crossover at all. The PO hated even putting mufflers on it as it was just a track car but the local road commisioner wanted to sell house lots adjacent to the dragstrip. The weight of the mufflers cost him .30 in the 1/8.
 
DJVCUDA said:
Picked up a set of poly-loc mounts to help keep the motor in the correct location.

My mounts are kinda new, 4-5 years old, but those huge thick rubber isolators start to sag sooner or later.
Click to expand...



I'm here to report that the poly mounts will not work with the headers, apparently things are SOOOOOO close that the poly mounts will be a no go!

The rubbber is the same thickness ( 1.50 " I believe) and the issue is when weight is placed on the rubber, it gives, pushing down the motor in the correct position.

THe poly ones do not give and will not compress to the desired height, making the use of them impossible. I could not get the t-bars in the LCA with them...
 
ok -

The poly-loc mounts wont work

( the factory rubber isolators are 1.5" thick ( same as the poly's ) but the rubber compresses about 1/4" with the engine on them)
The extra 1/4" is too high up fr anything to work ( I have to swap centerlinks and cut the fan shroud now to make it work. Before I had them raised with shims to clear the /6 centerlink.

_DJV0915.jpg


There is no stock starter that works for these headers

One company makes one - and it's clockable 360 degrees... pretty cool, but i found out that it hits the block and will not go in straight.

DSC_0079.jpg


It hits here:

DSC_0084.jpg
.




Got the X member cut, but i still gotta find thick enough sheetmetal to put back on its place.

_DJV0926.jpg




These ****'s better make some power!!

DSC_0039.jpg
 
DJVCUDA said:
ok -

The poly-loc mounts wont work

( the factory rubber isolators are 1.5" thick ( same as the poly's ) but the rubber compresses about 1/4" with the engine on them)
The extra 1/4" is too high up fr anything to work ( I have to swap centerlinks and cut the fan shroud now to make it work. Before I had them raised with shims to clear the /6 centerlink.

****Could you shorten the bracket....I know it's on an angle, but 1/4" wouldn't take much to make up....??????

There is no stock starter that works for these headers

One company makes one - and it's clockable 360 degrees... pretty cool, but i found out that it hits the block and will not go in straight.

*****I've heard of others using the R/MC with no issues...?????

It hits here:

*****GRINDER TIME :)




Got the X member cut, but i still gotta find thick enough sheetmetal to put back on its place.

*****Nice Work...!!!!!!



These ****'s better make some power!!

*****Bet they are your best bet.....looking forward to your results...!!!!! :toothy7:
Click to expand...


Rickster
 
Dave, I'm confused. (that doesn't say much)

If the polylocs have the engine sitting 1/4 taller, shouldn't that help with the centerlink clearance with the pan? Or are you saying the higher position makes the header hit somewhere?

The starter fitment is disturbing. TTI says a stock starter will fit (I believe). You are saying the T-bars won't go into the sockets? is that because you can't "thread the needle" through the pipes?

I'm going to run coil overs on the 65, so I think the poly loc wont' be a problem for us.

If you need some metal, Ive got some pieces at the shop that you can use. If you need it welded up, I can do that for you next week. Let me know, give me a call on my cell.

Also: whatever parts you dont' use (polylocs or spitfires) let me know, OK? Mike
 
Dave. Look into changing you tranny tail shaft angle. You can gain some clearance here. That's what I did but I had the tremec. Try some washers/shims under the tranny mount. Just a thought for ya.
 
74Burntorange said:
when you dyno tuning?
Click to expand...

After Carlisle for sure - I plan on getting the X pipe installed and driving it up there like that. From that point I just need time to schedule a day at the dyno and start wrenching again!



swing69 said:
Dave, I'm confused. (that doesn't say much)

If the polylocs have the engine sitting 1/4 taller, shouldn't that help with the centerlink clearance with the pan? Or are you saying the higher position makes the header hit somewhere?

The starter fitment is disturbing. TTI says a stock starter will fit (I believe). You are saying the T-bars won't go into the sockets? is that because you can't "thread the needle" through the pipes?

I'm going to run coil overs on the 65, so I think the poly loc wont' be a problem for us.

If you need some metal, Ive got some pieces at the shop that you can use. If you need it welded up, I can do that for you next week. Let me know, give me a call on my cell.

Also: whatever parts you dont' use (polylocs or spitfires) let me know, OK? Mike
Click to expand...

Basically the poly locs dont settle like the rubber ones do -- they are the same height not installed, but the poly ones dont give like rubber, thus making it taller

When it is taller the tubes hit the t-bars, basically cradling them from underneath making them unable to get into the LCA sockets.

they capture the bars on both sides
The attachment is TTI's prototype car ( stick ) but you can see how the bars are captured by the headers.
 

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  • 1.Headers on proto car.jpg
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daves66valiant said:
Dave. Look into changing you tranny tail shaft angle. You can gain some clearance here. That's what I did but I had the tremec. Try some washers/shims under the tranny mount. Just a thought for ya.
Click to expand...

Thanks Dave - I'll look into what angle I wound up with and see where it can go.
 
Rick - I think I'll give Rob a call his instructions say that they will hit a big block but nothing about a small block
 
I installed the tti headers into the already existing x-pipe system about a month ago. I replaced the Doug's that were on the car. I had to run new front brake hard lines to get them away from the headers, but I have the 73-76 disc on mine. Stock I don't know. I had to move my shifter cable. The tti collector-exhaust adapters had to be modified and I don't know why. Had to shim the rh side motor mount up 1/4" so the idler arm would clear the headers. I had to cut 3" off my steering column tube to clear the rear tube on the left side. All in all, the headers look and function beautifully, but the Doug's are much easier to install.
 
BTW,I used a stock mini starter and it is VERY close to one of the tubes (<1/32"), but no problems so far. I wrapped it with a summit heat shield.
 
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