turbo 6 bangers post here

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srixon4406 said:
Sorry Bill damn smart phones that was supposed to be the bottom port:eek:ops:
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Isn't that the way we have this plumbed???

The blue fitting is for the return line; it's coming out of the bottom of the regulator.

OH!!! I went back and re-read what I wrote. I see what you thought...

No... when I said "That's not the return line," what I MEANT was that the RUBBER HOSE was not the return line... that it's just acting as a grommet around the aluminun 3/8" metal tube... protecting it from abrasion where it passes through the sheet-metal.

Sorry ffor the confusion.
 

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I gotta it BILL I was confused. Bill let me ask you a question what size is your feed fuel line and your return line
Aaron
 
srixon4406 said:
I gotta it BILL I was confused. Bill let me ask you a question what size is your feed fuel line and your return line
Aaron
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Aaron,

They are both 3/8", and the two lines running over to the carb inlet are also 3/8". Everything is 3/8".
 
I have a question for you turbo guys...I noticed on hanger18 for modding the carb for boost, your have to remove the choke tower...do this make it harder to start?
 
Bill Dedman said:
They are both 3/8", and the two lines running over to the carb inlet are also 3/8". Everything is 3/8".
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Bill those line are little small if you have any problems when you start tuning you may have to upgrade your fuel system I'm using 1/2 inch on the feed and 3/4 on the return side
This is just my opinion but it's based off of hours of research I've done

As for the TOAD I'm going to put the drive shaft in in the morning and try and drive it up and down the driveway to make sure everything is good
The car is still in pieces but as long as all the mechanical side of the car is good putting back together shouldn't take me long but I still need to do the hotside piping and a front end alignment

Aaron
 
srixon4406 said:
Bill those line are little small if you have any problems when you start tuning you may have to upgrade your fuel system I'm using 1/2 inch on the feed and 3/4 on the return side
This is just my opinion but it's based off of hours of research I've done

As for the TOAD I'm going to put the drive shaft in in the morning and try and drive it up and down the driveway to make sure everything is good
The car is still in pieces but as long as all the mechanical side of the car is good putting back together shouldn't take me long but I still need to do the hotside piping and a front end alignment

Aaron
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Those lines we are using are the size (3/8") of the holes in the regulator.

A chain is only as strong as ts weakest link. If it still has to go through a 3/8" hole, how much good do you think it's going to do to have lines bigger than that?

I can't see it..

Tom Wolfe runs 3/8" lines and has no problem. He has the same pump and regulator that we do.

I think the secret is that, that Walbro pump puts out 60 psi... That will overcome a lot of distribution problems...

I think if it works for him, it will work for us, but I appreciate your interest!!!

Sounds like you may have your car operational in a matter of days!

Good for YOU!!!

We still have a ways to go...:-|
 
Well bill your sending unit is 1/2 then you choke it down to 3/8 through a filter then thru the pump back through a filter 12 ft run up to the reg then it splits off to three 3/8 lines
Bill there a big difference between pressure and flow I'd atleast think about changing your return line out
Let me ask you this question why do you run a 4 an oil line but U should run a 10 an return? Because you need flow so you don't choke off the turbo and drowned it in oil
Yes Tom may be running a 3/8 but if memory serves me correctly he running a 600 or 650 holley and your running a 750! One of the biggest problems with running boost is lean conditions and if you ain't got fuel you will go lean correct
I hope I'm wrong and it may work great for you and Freddie which I hope it does I myself don't want to chance it
Aaron
 
srixon4406 said:
Well bill your sending unit is 1/2 then you choke it down to 3/8.

I want to understand what you mean. I am having trouble here.

You say, "your sending unit is 1/2."

There is nothing in my entire fuel system called a "sending unit."

What are you talking about?

The outlet from that Walbro pump takes a 6AN fitting. That's 3/8".

I'm not arguing; I want to understand what you mean, here.

What "sending unit" are you talking about?

There are NO 1/2" fittings anywhere in this system.

Does YOUR fuel pump have a 1/2" outlet?

I thought you were running a Walbro392 like us...

I have to go to bed, now; I'll read your response tomorrow...

Thanks again for your interest and comments!
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Bill if I remember correctly you changed your fuel sending unit out in your fuel tank to 1/2 sending unit correct?
I'm only trying to help and yes I'm running a walbro 392 but I'm running a 8an fitting with 1/2 line for my feed
 
srixon4406 said:
Bill if I remember correctly you changed your fuel sending unit out in your fuel tank to 1/2 sending unit correct?
I'm only trying to help and yes I'm running a walbro 392 but I'm running a 8an fitting with 1/2 line for my feed
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Aaron; I know you're only trying to help and I do appreciate it.

We are not using the stock tank. We have an 8 gallon fuel cell, instead.

The Walbro 392 pump has a smaller-than 3/8" discharge port .

I didn't measure it, but it looks smaller to me, than the 3/8" fitting I screwed into it.

The pump has to push all the fuel through that hole. If there's going to be a restriction in the fuel delivery process, I believe it's going to be right there. I don't see how adding a half-inch line , after the fuel has already been squeezed throiugh that small hole is going to change anything; the damage to the delivery volume is already done. Like I said, a chain is only as strong as its weakest link and in this case, the weakest link is the pump-discharge port, itself.

Tell me what's wrong with that theory. If I am wrong, I want to know why.

I am not arguing; I want to understand this and I want YOU to understand my thinking on this; it's important. Fuel starvation will kill these motors quicker than anything.

Can't let that happen, but I don't think that adding a half-inch line to a stream that's already been forced through a hole smaller than 3/8" is going to flowany more fuel; I believe whatever restriction exists, is at the pump outlet, itself.

What do you think?
 
Bill what your saying is very true I guess never looked at from that stand point fyi it is a 10 mm pipe thread in case you do decide to change it
 
srixon4406 said:
Bill what your saying is very true I guess never looked at from that stand point fyi it is a 10 mm pipe thread in case you do decide to change it
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Aaron,

Well, if we run out of gas, we'll know who to blame: ME!


I probably should have listened to you! :-|

I am just going by what Tom has had success with. I dno't think we're going to be making any more HP than him, regardless of carb sizes. He's a tuner; we're newbies!

The difference in diameters of 10mm and 3/8ths of an inch is .0187".

I don't think that's going to be a significant amount of flow change, do you?

Thanks for the good info!:cheers:

Bill
 
I am starting to plan my draw through turbo setup and I had a very good friend offer to build me a sheet metal intake manifold. He is going to cut it out on his laser jet machine so it will be done right. I have chosen to make it out of steel instead aluminum for cost reasons. My question is there any downside to using a sheet metal intake over a normal cast intake? I know it would be easier to run a cast intake but my buddy is doing it for material cost only. My design is equall length straight runners off the head and then into a triangle shaped plenum that would feed into the intake piping. I will try to get pictures of my design on here soon. Another concern I have is with doing a draw through setup is there anything I need to do special inside the intake manifold for fuel/air flow?
 
kkeith1986 said:
I am starting to plan my draw through turbo setup and I had a very good friend offer to build me a sheet metal intake manifold. He is going to cut it out on his laser jet machine so it will be done right. I have chosen to make it out of steel instead aluminum for cost reasons. My question is there any downside to using a sheet metal intake over a normal cast intake? I know it would be easier to run a cast intake but my buddy is doing it for material cost only. My design is equall length straight runners off the head and then into a triangle shaped plenum that would feed into the intake piping. I will try to get pictures of my design on here soon. Another concern I have is with doing a draw through setup is there anything I need to do special inside the intake manifold for fuel/air flow?
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I would think about what might happen to that manifold if there were a backfire in that boosted, enclosed environment. Might damage the manifold, since the compressed air already contains atomized gas... Might make a pretty good BOOM..... Probably wouldn't hurt a cast iron manifold.

Just a thought...
 
Bill, I was just REALLY looking at your picture. I would recommend changing the rubber hoses coming off the "Y" block, to braided. A lot of tracks will bounce you in tech, if you have over 6 inches total system of rubber fuel line.
 
Charrlie_S said:
Bill, I was just REALLY looking at your picture. I would recommend changing the rubber hoses coming off the "Y" block, to braided. A lot of tracks will bounce you in tech, if you have over 6 inches total system of rubber fuel line.
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Charrlie, that was just a temporary setup to get it running to test the carb.

You are right, of course, and we have the braided line on the work-bench ready for installation.

See anything else that should be changed? I do know that long-runner intake manifold can be improved upon, but we have tried an Offy and a Clifford but we'd have to make major changes to our headers to use either one of them. We beat the header up and ground all the way through to air on the manifold runners, and it still was a no-go.

Aussiespeed has a new, short-runner version of the Hurricane, but it's almost $500,00 and I am probably going to have to break down and get a job beforee I can put that together...:prayer:

It always boils down to money... :banghead:
 
Bill Dedman said:
See anything else that should be changed?
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I think you should change to a draw thru setup. I just happen to have a Genuwine Anteque system using a Rajay turbo from a Corvair. It is complete and "period" correct. I would be willing to trade for your system even up. :wink::wink::wink:
 
Charrlie_S said:
I think you should change to a draw thru setup. I just happen to have a Genuwine Anteque system using a Rajay turbo from a Corvair. It is complete and "period" correct. I would be willing to trade for your system even up. :wink::wink::wink:
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Charrlie.

You so crazy.... LOL!:cheers:
 
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