turbo 6 bangers post here

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Hay bill hows it going man its been alittle bit ? You still plan on making it over here for the tulsa show in nov ?
 
Dart_Doctor said:
Hay bill hows it going man its been alittle bit ? You still plan on making it over here for the tulsa show in nov ?
Click to expand...

Still a possibility, Asa. We are getting close to having this thing finished and it's not quite September.

I'll keep you guys posted!:happy1::prayer:
 
Dart_Doctor said:
I see that man Hope to see you there btw Im starting on my barracuda but it will not be any where near done by then so i will have to drive the chevy lol Heres a link bud http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=141949
Click to expand...


Here are some fairly current pics of ours:

http://www.flickr.com/photos/billdedman/

Since those were taken, we have changed to an Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator and installed a half-inch return line, replacing the 3/8" one that was on there.
 
Dart_Doctor said:
I cant open that on this computer bud but i will look for sure man
Click to expand...

I don't understand that.

That is just a link; click on it and the page should open.

If it doesn't just copy that URL into the address bar and that surely will open it.

Try it.
 
I got it to work looks good bill remeber bill im on dail up so if im updating my computer some things will not opan lol
 
I know you guys likely don't like the cheap turbos off of ebay, but I was just wondering what to look for for an affordable (under $200) for a mostly stock slant six pushing under 10lbs of boost through a super six setup (or small 4bbrl possibly). Ive heard to look into stock GN turbos, but finding one around here isn't too easy, also heard looking into a Celica Ct26 turbo but they are actually pricey. Lol

Hows this one for size?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-T3...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bdd9f3ad&vxp=mtr
 
That looks about right for your application. Consider a Holley or Motorcraft 2 barrel for carb(350 cfm).
 
Rockerdude said:
Hows this one for size?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/CXRacing-T3...Parts_Accessories&hash=item20bdd9f3ad&vxp=mtr
Click to expand...

I don't know a lot about turbo sizing. (That's an understatement!)

You'd think somebody selling something like that (an aftermarket turbo,) in the interest of having satisfied customers (people who bought and installed this item on the correct-sized motor) would, at LEAST, say something like, "this turbo will work well on mildly tuned motors in the displacement range from 200 to 280 cubic inches, if rpms are limited to approximately 5500. Of course, smaller engines can go higher and larger engines might start losing torque a little sooner."

That sort of information might prevent a newbie (like me) from choosing that turbo for, say, a 360 Magnum motor. Or, a Fiat 500.

That kind of mistake can happen very easily, because turbo sizing takes some education to do "right" and not a lot of people have it. I sure don't.

It's up to the vendor, and in HIS best interest to provide at least, ballpark figures on which engines might could benefit from this particular unit, because HE's the one who's going to have to deal with unhappy customers (returns, bad feedback, or whatever,) if it turns out not to work well on the intended engine because of sizing issues.


Tom Wolfe (Shaker223 on FABO) installed a junkyard Buick G/N turbo on an otherwise stock 225, that had either a 2bbl or a 4bbl added (I can't remember which,) in a 3,300-pound 1970 Dart and went 12.95 @ 102 mph, but he was running 18 pounds of boost to do that.

That amount of boost is not healthy for a stock short block. Ten pounds is probably about as much as the stock setup can endure and live a reasonably long life. We're talking pump gas, here...

At ten pounds of boost, your e.t.'s in a 3,300-pound car (yours may be lighter,) would probably be in the high 14's, if it hooks.

The first thing you could do, if you want to go faster than that, is install an alcohol/water injector and increase the boost level somewhat.

I have no idea what that might do for you, but I guarantee that you'd go faster/quicker. Just how much, I can't say...

Snowperformance has one for I like about $300.00 (Stage I.) I have one on my supercharged 360 Magnum and another on the turbo /6 car we're building.

Money well-spent, I think...

Chemical intercooling. A band aid that seems to work well.

I would email that seller and tell him what you want to do and ask him if that turbo is an appropriate size for your application. If he doesn't know that, he shouldn't be selling 'em...

Doing that might minimize your chance of a mistake that can cost you time and money.

It's worth doing, I think!

Good luck! :cheers:
 
Thank you Bill! I've got my hands on a super six setup and want to plan on putting all of this into my 63 valiant very soon down the road. How is your car going? Put some boost to it yet?
 
Rockerdude said:
Thank you Bill! I've got my hands on a super six setup and want to plan on putting all of this into my 63 valiant very soon down the road. How is your car going? Put some boost to it yet?
Click to expand...

No, but we are very close to trying that.

I'll report as soon as it happens, win, lose, or draw....


I'm really excited about it!!!!

Just a lot of details to nail down, first...:violent1:

Thanks a lot for your interest!:cheers:
 
I have a 64 Dart GT 225 factory 4 speed. Engine build, bottom end stock bore cam, Head is an 1986 shaved 60 under, the big 1.70/1.43 valves. Stock super six intake with a Holley 650.
I am going to try turbo low boost 7-10 lbs.
My question 1 is I see turbos with internal bov set at 7 to 10lbs. Or the adjustable external bov. What if any would be the cheaper route. This is no means a race car, just want more giddy gone. The plumbing I understand,just need ideas on what types of turbos would be easily obtainable for my small needs. I don't think I'll have a problem with lean burn with the big carb. Car runs good as is, but needs more air.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
 

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ManicMoparchanic said:
I have a 64 Dart GT 225 factory 4 speed. Engine build, bottom end stock bore cam, Head is an 1986 shaved 60 under, the big 1.70/1.43 valves. Stock super six intake with a Holley 650.
I am going to try turbo low boost 7-10 lbs.
My question 1 is I see turbos with internal bov set at 7 to 10lbs. Or the adjustable external bov. What if any would be the cheaper route. This is no means a race car, just want more giddy gone. The plumbing I understand,just need ideas on what types of turbos would be easily obtainable for my small needs. I don't think I'll have a problem with lean burn with the big carb. Car runs good as is, but needs more air.
Thanks in advance for any ideas.
Click to expand...

Pm sent
 
Bill Dedman said:
No, but we are very close to trying that.

I'll report as soon as it happens, win, lose, or draw....


I'm really excited about it!!!!

Just a lot of details to nail down, first...:violent1:

Thanks a lot for your interest!:cheers:
Click to expand...

Well, we have been busy with this thing, for sure and have made some sideways progress, but are not there, yet.

I say "sideways" because I cant say, for sure, that we have been going forward... Here's why:

We started out testing our air/fuel mixture with an F.A.S.T. wideband, data-logging, hand-held meter, and it hs been very helpful in terms of telling us what the mixture is doing at any particular time.

Carb #1 was a blow-thru 750 Holley DP with a boost-referenced power valve, and in testing, trying to get the mixture under control using normal means (installing richer jets all the way around and we could never, after several tries, get close to our desired 11.5:1 A/F ratio under boost... it would get down to about 16:1 and that is not a useable ratio,

As an experiment, I replaced that carb with carburator #2 (a nearly-identical 750 Holley double pumper that I use on my Vortech-blown 360 Magnum) and did some A/F ratio testing with it, just to see if I could get ratios anywhere near what I needed with it.

After three tries, all with bigger jets than the previous attempts, I was close, but not there, yet.
My friend Aaron has been suggesting that I install some float bowl, vent tube extensions made from 5/16" brake tubing, running them all the way to the entrance of the carb hat. I decided to try them, but was also told that the high speed air bleeds could be totally blocked with round toothpicks, broken off leaving about 1/4" sticking out for retrieval, later, if it didn't work.

I did the stupid thing; I made two changes at the same time (I was tired of working on this thing, trying to fatten it up.)

The next test-run yielded figures that were TOO rich (10;1 to 10.5:1 on the meter. Now, when it gets into boost (8+ pounds max,) it staarts missing, badly.

I have a new distributor, new cap and rotor, new Taylor cable wires, new NGK supercharger (non-extended nose) cold plugs gapped at .030" and a Mopar performance Orange box with a stock coil.

I own a new MSD 6-AL II and a Blaster II coil.

I think the time has come to install all that MSD stuff, and pull the toothpicks out of the high speed air bleeds. I only used the toothpicks on the back 2 barrels. The front ones remain open.

Maybe that will get me the 11.5:1 A/F ratio I am looking for and stop the ignition "missing under boost."

The Snowperformance Boost Cooler has a #3 jet in it (small) and is set to come on at 5 pounds of boost. I don't think that was a problem because the engine started missing before the spray began, I use pure meth in that reservoir; no water..

So that's my story and I'm stickin; to it!

Goin' into the hospital Monday morning at 8, and will emerge on Wednesday afternoon. Heart issues...

This "missing under boost" issue is killing me!!!:banghead:
 
Bill Dedman said:
Well, we have been busy with this thing, for sure and have made some sideways progress, but are not there, yet.

I say "sideways" because I cant say, for sure, that we have been going forward... Here's why:

We started out testing our air/fuel mixture with an F.A.S.T. wideband, data-logging, hand-held meter, and it hs been very helpful in terms of telling us what the mixture is doing at any particular time.

Carb #1 was a blow-thru 750 Holley DP with a boost-referenced power valve, and in testing, trying to get the mixture under control using normal means (installing richer jets all the way around and we could never, after several tries, get close to our desired 11.5:1 A/F ratio under boost... it would get down to about 16:1 and that is not a useable ratio,

As an experiment, I replaced that carb with carburator #2 (a nearly-identical 750 Holley double pumper that I use on my Vortech-blown 360 Magnum) and did some A/F ratio testing with it, just to see if I could get ratios anywhere near what I needed with it.

After three tries, all with bigger jets than the previous attempts, I was close, but not there, yet.
My friend Aaron has been suggesting that I install some float bowl, vent tube extensions made from 5/16" brake tubing, running them all the way to the entrance of the carb hat. I decided to try them, but was also told that the high speed air bleeds could be totally blocked with round toothpicks, broken off leaving about 1/4" sticking out for retrieval, later, if it didn't work.

I did the stupid thing; I made two changes at the same time (I was tired of working on this thing, trying to fatten it up.)

The next test-run yielded figures that were TOO rich (10;1 to 10.5:1 on the meter. Now, when it gets into boost (8+ pounds max,) it staarts missing, badly.

I have a new distributor, new cap and rotor, new Taylor cable wires, new NGK supercharger (non-extended nose) cold plugs gapped at .030" and a Mopar performance Orange box with a stock coil.

I own a new MSD 6-AL II and a Blaster II coil.

I think the time has come to install all that MSD stuff, and pull the toothpicks out of the high speed air bleeds. I only used the toothpicks on the back 2 barrels. The front ones remain open.

Maybe that will get me the 11.5:1 A/F ratio I am looking for and stop the ignition "missing under boost."

The Snowperformance Boost Cooler has a #3 jet in it (small) and is set to come on at 5 pounds of boost. I don't think that was a problem because the engine started missing before the spray began, I use pure meth in that reservoir; no water..

So that's my story and I'm stickin; to it!

Goin' into the hospital Monday morning at 8, and will emerge on Wednesday afternoon. Heart issues...

This "missing under boost" issue is killing me!!!:banghead:
Click to expand...

Offline 'til Wed PM
 
Bill I hope all is well with you, me and the wife have been praying for a speedy recovery. I'm glad your starting to make head way with your afr it mite be time to start pulling some jets
Keep at it we will get you there I've got plenty of tricks up my sleeve
Aaron
 
srixon4406 said:
Bill I hope all is well with you, me and the wife have been praying for a speedy recovery. I'm glad your starting to make head way with your afr it mite be time to start pulling some jets
Keep at it we will get you there I've got plenty of tricks up my sleeve
Aaron
Click to expand...


Thanks, Aaron!

I got out of the hospital yesterday (Thursday) and am back on my feet, up and at 'em, today (Friday) with every intention of doing some more testing and tuning with our newly installed MSD 6-AL II because I think this MP Orange box has hit its limit. The reason I say that is, when we make a test run the freeway, now, what happens is this: We run it up to about 3,000 rpm in 3rd gear at full throttle and as soon as the rpms start to climb above 3,500, and boost starts to climb above 5psi, random ignition failure occurs, and it's not a pretty thing to witness.

NGK plugs (pretty cold ones,) gapped at .030", are apparently not doing the job, but I think insufficient voltage at the plug (solid 16-degrees advance on the crank) is the problem.

Today, (at least, the plan is) the MSD unit goes in, and I am HOPING the ignition miss goes away.

Also, on the agenda, is the examination of the spring values in the waste gate and the spring values in the blowoff valve's operation. I'm hoping to get these values nailed down to a reliable 12 pounds of boost, with the BOV opening at about 6 inches of Mercury.

Once we get that accomplished, the manual boost controller will join the fray to prevent waste gate creep.

Then, with that accomplished, we can start working on stall speed... I'd like to see a consisstent foot-braked 3,000 rpm at first.

At least, that's that's the plan... but, you know what they say about the best-laid plans of mice and men... LOL!

Wish us all KINDS of good luck; we're gonna need it!!!!!

What's up with the TOAD???
 
Bill im glad your back on your feet and moving around.:wav:

I'm kind of wondering about your plugs when I got my nkg the guy that I deal with at the part store is a mopar guy and when he looked up the part number for the stock plug I believe he told me it was a #@$%7 I don't have the exact number but it ended with a 7 and when I told him I needed something colder then stock I ended up with the #@$%5 don't have the exact part number handy right at this time (at work now). I no your running #@$%9 big difference in numbers. Don't no if this is your problem or not maybe I went the wrong way but my guy at the part store told me the lower the number the colder the plug:mumum:

I still haven't hooked any of my aftermarket ignition up yet I only did the HEI conversion, I'm trying to keep it simple and get all the minor bugs worked out.

As for tuning I've been playing around but the weather has been cool here in Michigan and with the cheater slicks on the car im concerned with traction issues. But Bill its running better now then it ever has but honestly its a touch on the rich side I believe my brpv is opening to soon and I've been procrastinating pulling the fuel bowl off to make the adjustments needed to delay the activation of the brpv. The way I have mine setup is similar to Toms design but my reference point is in a different location.

Also I still haven't nailed down my boost controller plumbing? It's discharging CO2 when it shouldn't and honestly haven't put a whole Alot of time into it with the weather being the way it is. Sometimes I wish I still lived down south!!!!

Keep at it Bill your getting closer I'm hoping you have it figured out when 2013 race season starts:blob:
Aaron
 
srixon4406 said:
Bill im glad your back on your feet and moving around.:wav:

I'm kind of wondering about your plugs when I got my nkg the guy that I deal with at the part store is a mopar guy and when he looked up the part number for the stock plug I believe he told me it was a #@$%7 I don't have the exact number but it ended with a 7 and when I told him I needed something colder then stock I ended up with the #@$%5 don't have the exact part number handy right at this time (at work now). I no your running #@$%9 big difference in numbers. Don't no if this is your problem or not maybe I went the wrong way but my guy at the part store told me the lower the number the colder the plug:mumum:

I still haven't hooked any of my aftermarket ignition up yet I only did the HEI conversion, I'm trying to keep it simple and get all the minor bugs worked out.

As for tuning I've been playing around but the weather has been cool here in Michigan and with the cheater slicks on the car im concerned with traction issues. But Bill its running better now then it ever has but honestly its a touch on the rich side I believe my brpv is opening to soon and I've been procrastinating pulling the fuel bowl off to make the adjustments needed to delay the activation of the brpv. The way I have mine setup is similar to Toms design but my reference point is in a different location.

Also I still haven't nailed down my boost controller plumbing? It's discharging CO2 when it shouldn't and honestly haven't put a whole Alot of time into it with the weather being the way it is. Sometimes I wish I still lived down south!!!!

Keep at it Bill your getting closer I'm hoping you have it figured out when 2013 race season starts:blob:
Aaron
Click to expand...


Here is what I found at the NGK website:

Field three: Heat Range

2=Hottest
10=Coldest
 
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