Ultimate swap confirmation

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French demon

French demon

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Hi buddies

I have an appointment with my mechanic to swap my /6 Demon gearbox (3-speed A230 --> 4-speed A833)

Here is what I have :
- The A833 gearbox itself with the Inland gear shift lever and mechanism
- The /6 bell housing with new fork, clutch bearing, sleeve and boot.
- A brand new 10 inches clutch kit.
14-05-2024.jpg


Clutch kit.jpg



All others parts : clutch z-bar, 26 teeth driveshaft, rear cross member mount and reverse electrical wiring will be those already on the car and are Mopar 1971 original parts

Am I ready to successfully realize the swap, or did I forget something?

:thankyou:
François
 
When funds allow, swap to a Competition Plus Hurst shifter. The Inland shifters get pretty sloppy after a while in my opinion.
 
Looks good- just don't let your mechanic forget to swap the speedometer drive pinion from the A230 into the four speed, to keep your speedometer reading correctly (it MAY already have the correct one, but you need to check).
 
Professor Fate said:
Looks good- just don't let your mechanic forget to swap the speedometer drive pinion from the A230 into the four speed, to keep your speedometer reading correctly (it MAY already have the correct one, but you need to check).
Click to expand...

Hi Professor
My speedo is already completely false (a 20km/h difference :rolleyes:). It can't be worse :)
To be accurate, I prefer to use a dedicated application on my phone.



And don't forget to change the sticker on your console! :lol:
Professor Fate said:
View attachment 1716297864
Click to expand...
This sticker isn't on my console anymore :lol:
 
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French demon said:
I would love to have a pistol grip,
Click to expand...
Just my opinion, but
the Pistol Grip in an A-body looks out of scale to me. Well truthfully, I never liked the look of them anyway, nor the feel, and I hate how long the throws feel when banging gears. It's like I could read a book between second and third. and worst of all, you only have the one hand position, and so, your wrist gets a workout on every shift. In my opinion, it was a gimic.
So, since you don't have one, lol, that's a good thing! ..... IMO, lol.

Nothing beats a ball.
And one more;
the right rear gears to run with the 198 and the od box are 3.91s ...... IMO
 
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Ergonomically, you're right. The pistol grip isn't the best lever for the wrist. I think that the better one remains the Hurst ball.
But for now, the Inland shifter will make the job (in addition, the chrome has been professionally redone) :)

Installing a Hurst shifter means changing the lever, the mecanism, the rods and the mounting plate.
Big budget.
20240130_110957.jpg


The swap is scheduled for Sept,17th

I cross my fingers to not encounter any problem
 
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I have the reverse warning light to complete the 4-speed conversion.
Reverse warning light.jpg

But where do I have to connect the wire? I don't find this warning light on the '71 Dart ou Valiant wiring diagrams.

:thankyou:
 
Hi all
As you already know, the gearbox swap is scheduled on tuesday, Sept.17th at a professional mechanic shop.

Yesterday, I found this affirmation from a guy on another Mopar forum :
"If your using a clutch linkage set up, make sure to get a Z bar from a V8 car. The slant sixes have a different lenght on the arm on the clutch fork side and will over extend the fork and ruin the pressure plate."

But, on the other hand, on another forum, I found this :
"As far as clutch linkage is concerned, stock slant six clutch linkage for three speed cars can be used [with 4 speed gearboxes]. "

My 1966 A-833 bellhousing has a fork of the short type (like the /6 trans) but I’m not sure of anything anymore
20240227_112204.jpg

So, it's an emergency.
Is the slant 6 Z-bar different from the one coming from a V8?
If yes, I'll have to cancel the swap and find out a V8 Z-bar or complete clutch linkage. By now, I only have my original /6 A-230 clutch linkage. I was thinking using it with the A-833.

Please, I rely on you to get some help before monday.
:thankyou:
François
 
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If the clutch fork that holds the throwout bearing is the same one that came with the bellhousing when you bought the transmission, or at least a new one the same length, it should work fine. The only thing that might need modification is the bracket that bolts to the side of the bellhousing and holds the ball stud. The shop doing the work should be able to work that out if it truly is a problem.
 
JDMopar said:
If the clutch fork that holds the throwout bearing is the same one that came with the bellhousing when you bought the transmission, or at least a new one the same length, it should work fine. The only thing that might need modification is the bracket that bolts to the side of the bellhousing and holds the ball stud. The shop doing the work should be able to work that out if it truly is a problem.
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Understood :thumbsup:
I think that both forks are the same.
And for the bracket, in the worst case, I will take the old one on the A230 bellhousing.
Thank you JDM... :)
 
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The Demon is at the mechanic shop, and on the lift. Driveshaft removed.
First good news : the original A230 driveshaft yoke fits the A833 :p
Tomorrow, the gearbox swap.
I keep my fingers crossed... :)
 
Tuesday.
The bellhousing with the new clutch is in.
The gearbox is in.
The shifter and its lever are in.
The driveshaft is in.
In.jpg


Now, we have a major problem : the Z-bar.
The flat lever is offset to the left and do not face the fork : the fork rod moves at an angle and it's impossible to disengage the clutch.
My mechanic (on picture) will have to modify the Z-bar by moving the flat lever to the right (cut and weld)
Or maybe, try to use the A-230 BH fork. It seems to be longer than the A-833 one. But to replace the fork, he has to remove the gearbox :rolleyes:

To be continued.
 
I figured the Z bar alignment was going to possibly be a problem. I guess the old bellhousing must not have had a dual transmission pattern? Don't let it get you down.....he'll figure it out.

:thumbsup:
 
You're right, the old* BH doesn't have the dual pattern
And you were also right in your #13 post : it's a problem of fork length.
But my mechanic is a good guy, I'm sure that he's going to find a solution...


* In fact, it's newer (1971) than the A833 one (1966). But old anyway :)
 
The trans Does NOT have to come down to swap the TO fork.
The fork comes out easily enough with just a tug.
To get it back in, it only takes a careful alignment then a heavy bop to get it started, then a final push. I have done this many times.
 
Interesting information.
I'll communicate it to my mechanic.
:thankyou:

What do you call "a heavy bop"..? a good hit on the fork?
 
AJ/FormS said:
The trans Does NOT have to come down to swap the TO fork.
The fork comes out easily enough with just a tug.
To get it back in, it only takes a careful alignment then a heavy bop to get it started, then a final push. I have done this many times.
Click to expand...

Great advice AJ : the fork has been changed without removing the transmission.
The '71 Demon fork is effectively longer than the '66 Barracuda one.
Once it has been changed, the fork rod was well in line with the fork hole.
My mechanic had to slighlty modify the ball-stud location onto the BH, but now it's ok.
They tested the car on the road and they told that the 833 seems to works fine :p

In addition, the swaybar bushings have been replaced too.

I will go to pick-up the car at the garage in the afternoon....

:thankyou: all for your clever advices
François

PS : next step, installing the reverse warning light under the dashboard :)
 
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