What engine oil do you prefer,??.

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Maybe.....maybe not.

I do know this as a FACT. Much like I will not trust magazine articles whose advertisers throw money at them, I will choose to get my oil information from somewhere other than a source that sells it.

It's always funny how they want you to buy the absolute best and most expensive when it's totally unnecessary.

Do you have proof that synthetic oils do not stop lifter rotation? I would be interested if you do.

Yall can spend 7-10 bucks a quart if you want to, but you certainly don't need to.

A fool and his money and all that.......
 
Been using synthetic oil since the late 80's , lots of high mileage cars , over 300,000 miles , none ever had any engine failure , none burned oil between changes . Had the engines opened to check and bearings , everything looked new , no crap in the pan , everything looked like new .
Guess I'm a fool , 10,000 to 15,000 miles between oil changes , so cost was about the same in the long run .
 
Lots of people used single weight "tractor oil" long before the inundation of synthetic oil for automobiles and got a LOT of mileage too. The key to it is keeping it changed, plain and simple. Even the best synthetic can and will fail if it's not changed properly.

My point is, ad you seem to have missed it, is that the OIL, while important, is NOT the end all be all. Proper maintenance is.

You can throw up whatever article you want, that doesn't make it the end all be all. Evidence shows otherwise. My grandfather had a 65 Rambler American 2 door 6 cylinder 3 on the tree and always ran straight 30 weight. It had over 250K when he sold it. He's but one example of millions. As I've said before, for the most part, all the engine cares about is whether the dipstick says full.
 
Ran Joe Gibbs break in oil than used his 15/40 weight mineral for the first 10,000 miles than have switched to the full synthetic 15/40 Joe Gibbs, Solid flat tappet. Have to agree with Rusty Maintenance is the Key.5000-6000 miles will dump oil & replace filter and just to add as you might think im a nutter i use earth magnets on my oil filter and a sump plug magnet.I even use them in my Tranny sump and diff.
 
15w50 mobil 1 is what I use in my 340, when I rebuilt it every thing was fine inside including the camshaft.

It didn't need the rebuild but I added about 100hp and completely changed the setup.

I use mobil 1 in all my vehicles , riding mower included
 
This thread is exactly why I don't post in threads like this (usually).

I have not seen a single comment where oil was dyno tested, correct evaluated and then compared to another oil. Why is that? Because it in farking expensive to test oil correctly. To test an oil against just one other oil takes 30-40 dyno pulls, at least 3 (sometimes 6) oil changes (if the data is unexpected) or more, the cost of analysis, then, disassemble and measure component wear.

So let me say this about the 6 different oils I have tested. Dino oil is usless in a performance engine. I don't care how often you change it. Synthetic oils do not stop lifter rotation, any more than they stop roller lifters from rolling. Total crapola. If using flat type lifters you MUST have ZINC. PERIOD.

As for cost, the bottom synthetic oils are worth slightly more HP over dino oils. The mid priced sythetic oils are a waste of money. The uber expensive oils (such as Torco and LAT) are worth every red cent. They out perform every other oil in testing and after dyno results (there are a couple more in the uber class that are good too).


Do what you want, but asking a forum what oil they like is akin to asking what ice cram is better, chocolate or vanilla. It's mostly just opinion or taste.















FWIW, mocha almond fudge is the best ice cram.
 
Just like taking stock in what oil companies say is best is like listening to a crack dealer.
 
yellow rose said:
This thread is exactly why I don't post in threads like this (usually).

I have not seen a single comment where oil was dyno tested, correct evaluated and then compared to another oil. Why is that? Because it in farking expensive to test oil correctly. To test an oil against just one other oil takes 30-40 dyno pulls, at least 3 (sometimes 6) oil changes (if the data is unexpected) or more, the cost of analysis, then, disassemble and measure component wear.

So let me say this about the 6 different oils I have tested. Dino oil is usless in a performance engine. I don't care how often you change it. Synthetic oils do not stop lifter rotation, any more than they stop roller lifters from rolling. Total crapola. If using flat type lifters you MUST have ZINC. PERIOD.

As for cost, the bottom synthetic oils are worth slightly more HP over dino oils. The mid priced sythetic oils are a waste of money. The uber expensive oils (such as Torco and LAT) are worth every red cent. They out perform every other oil in testing and after dyno results (there are a couple more in the uber class that are good too).


Do what you want, but asking a forum what oil they like is akin to asking what ice cram is better, chocolate or vanilla. It's mostly just opinion or taste.















FWIW, mocha almond fudge is the best ice cram.
Click to expand...
I like mint chocolate chip and banana ice cream :happy1:
 
yellow rose said:
FWIW, mocha almond fudge is the best ice cram.
Click to expand...


Mint chocolate chip hot fudge brownie sundae....mmmmmm

Back in the 70's and 80's dad ran Kendall GT-1 20w-50 in a fleet of mopar taxi cabs. Had them on a monthly service rotation. Keep in mind a month on a taxi can be 10-20k miles. Most of them saw upwards of 300k miles on the 318's and over 600k on the slants. Put a spare 500k slant in a 71 dart in high school.
 
yellow rose said:
This thread is exactly why I don't post in threads like this (usually).

I have not seen a single comment where oil was dyno tested, correct evaluated and then compared to another oil. Why is that? Because it in farking expensive to test oil correctly. To test an oil against just one other oil takes 30-40 dyno pulls, at least 3 (sometimes 6) oil changes (if the data is unexpected) or more, the cost of analysis, then, disassemble and measure component wear.

So let me say this about the 6 different oils I have tested. Dino oil is usless in a performance engine. I don't care how often you change it. Synthetic oils do not stop lifter rotation, any more than they stop roller lifters from rolling. Total crapola. If using flat type lifters you MUST have ZINC. PERIOD.

As for cost, the bottom synthetic oils are worth slightly more HP over dino oils. The mid priced sythetic oils are a waste of money. The uber expensive oils (such as Torco and LAT) are worth every red cent. They out perform every other oil in testing and after dyno results (there are a couple more in the uber class that are good too).


Do what you want, but asking a forum what oil they like is akin to asking what ice cram is better, chocolate or vanilla. It's mostly just opinion or taste.














FWIW, mocha almond fudge is the best ice cram.
Click to expand...


I Agree with you but the opinions given are what people use in their engines whether its an elcheapo mineral based oil or the top of the range synthetic if it works for you and not doing any harm to the engine you can only go by what you try. Good or bad !. The oil i use is supposed to have the zinc added for flat tappet cams which was added from my last oil change ive put some 5000 miles so far and its been OK, whether its the right oil i'll let you know down the track ? Is it a good oil ? might be as good as the virgin olive oil i use when cooking, im only going by advise from my engine builder who is reputable and they build quality sprint car engines. I'll take the chocolate ice cream !
 
I've currently got Valvoline VR1 20w50 in my 340. 10w40 was what I was going to switch to but Napa was out. I had Royal Purple HPS 10w30 but wasn't satisfied with the hot oil pressure, hence the change in oil. As for a filter; Wix.
 
I use 4 quarts of any good conventional 10W40. To this is added one quart of Lucas racing oil in 20W50. This combination was recommended by Richard Ehrenberg, SAE, the tech editor for Mopar Action magazine. The Lucas oil adds the higher amount of ZDDP without using another additive. It seems to work well in my Commando 273 with a flat-tappet cam-no signs of any kind of wear.
 
360 iron head flat tappet mill: shell rotella T 15/40
339 W8 roller cam: Torco TR1-R 10.30 Engine builder dynoed with it and recommended it so that's what she'll run....


I also have a case of 5.30 Pur Ol 5.30 syn I may try one of these days.

http://pur-ol.com/purol-elite-series/
 
jerry6 said:
b s , as in total !
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Sure, you can call it BS, still won't help with your camshaft warranty claim. If I built an engine for you and supplied you with a break in oil and then you decided to use your own synthetic, and had a failure, then you wouldn't be getting a sympathetic ear from me.
Also, oil does more than just lube your engine, it's cleans it and helps absorb impurities from the cycling of the engine. That's why trying to stretch oil change mileage is not a great idea..
Just to add, didn't I see a post here where Lunati ( I think it was them) recommended not using synthetic oil with their cams until the engine had done around 50,000 miles? Or some bizarre mileage like that?
 
RustyRatRod said:
Just like taking stock in what oil companies say is best is like listening to a crack dealer.
Click to expand...

This is the conversation:
Buyer: Hi, I'm just calling about the oil you make..
Oil rep: Yes sir, what do you want to know?
Buyer: So how does your oil compare with other brand oils?
Oil Rep: Ours is the best in the world, hands down..
Buyer OK, send me some...

Is that it Rod?? :)
How about the old ball bearing test??? LOL :)
 
I am still trying to figure out why/how a synthetic oil could stop lifter rotation.... As I understand it, lifter rotation comes from the lifter's contact point with the cam being off of the center of the lifter axis.....can't think of anything else that causes it. How can a synthetic change the point of contact? And if it reduces the turning friction between lifter and lobe, it also reduces the drag trying to prevent rotation at the pushrod contact at the rocker and lifter.

Crane and Crower and Lunati don't want you to use synthetics 'during break-in'. Comp does not seem to care and says their break-in additive is compatible with synthetics. I have not personally had any issues with synthetics and have raced on them a lot with excellent results (in harsh endurance racing: rallying). But, I have never seen any real degree of wear reduction on cams/lifters with synthetics similar to what is consistently found on rings/pistons/bores and on bearings/journals.
 
There is no point wondering about the "why" if they won't warrant a failure.
 
nm9stheham said:
I am still trying to figure out why/how a synthetic oil could stop lifter rotation.... As I understand it, lifter rotation comes from the lifter's contact point with the cam being off of the center of the lifter axis.....can't think of anything else that causes it. How can a synthetic change the point of contact? And if it reduces the turning friction between lifter and lobe, it also reduces the drag trying to prevent rotation at the pushrod contact at the rocker and lifter.

Crane and Crower and Lunati don't want you to use synthetics 'during break-in'. Comp does not seem to care and says their break-in additive is compatible with synthetics. I have not personally had any issues with synthetics and have raced on them a lot with excellent results (in harsh endurance racing: rallying). But, I have never seen any real degree of wear reduction on cams/lifters with synthetics similar to what is consistently found on rings/pistons/bores and on bearings/journals.
Click to expand...


Exactly. No one said ANYTHING about using synthetic for break in. Guys are just making crap up. No oil will stop lifter rotating. Cams are going flat because guys are buying oils that do NOT have zinc. ALL ( and I mean ALL TRUE) racing oils have zinc in them. Even for guys running rollers, the rings and exhaust guides still like zinc.

So here is some FREE info on oils that anyone could find if they really wanted to know. It's FREE so take it for what you are paying for it (FWIW I don not sell oil in any brand but I have tested several, see my earlier post).


I doesn't matter how LONG you go between drain intervals with a synthetic base stock oil. The base oil does NOT wear out. What REALLY happens is that the additive package (detergents, dispersants, pour point modifiers, viscosity index improvers and the like) get used up. They are gone, The base stock can no longer stay clean because the additives are gone. If you use an oil that the OIL MANUFACTURER has developed to go longer drain intervals, they have used more additive package to the oil to make it last longer. Most RACING oil have enough additive to go longest than no racing oils, although some (Redline comes to mind) don't use any detergents in their racing oils, so they are not even streetable. I avoid those oils like the plague.

There is more to oil than it looks like. Using diesl oils in an automotive application is not a good thing, though many do it. It has a totally different additive package just for the soot makers.

I suggest to the OP that he spend several dozen hours ON THE PHONE with ANY oil manufacturer he can get on the phone. Ask ANY question you can think of, take notes, read the notes over later and call them back to clarify or ask more questions. The oil people, like the cam grinders, would much rather you CALL them and talk to them than go on the internet and ask an idiot like me for information.
 
Bakerlite said:
There is no point wondering about the "why" if they won't warrant a failure.
Click to expand...
That bypasses the question about idea that synthetic will actually stop lifter rotation.... I would like to understand this issue, rather than just blindly accept it.

BTW, none of the above cam makers explicitly list the use of synthetic oil as a reason to deny a warranty claim in their warranty statements. Nor do they say anything like that in their FAQ or apps info. Crower does recommend against synthetic in their FAQ's but then says if your car's owner's manual says to use synthetic, then 'you may do so'.... that's darned inconsistent! LOL

BTW, this seems to be a reasonably objective article on these issues, free from odd claims or hyperbole....

http://www.motor.com/article.asp?article_ID=1604

And this one:

http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/ctrp-0807-flat-tappet-cam-lubricants/
 
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