who is running MRL (BAM) Lifters without lifter bore sleeves

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The oil drain off coming from the heads plus the splash and windage of the rotating assembly is what lubes the lifters from the top and bottom sides. It is even better to add a small hole through the copper tubing visible in the litter bore just as pressed in lifter biushings can be drilled.
 
512Stroker said:
My engine has a stock oiling system, thru the rocker shafts.
I dont think I can run the Comp 8043 rollers.
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Mine oil through the shafts too. The lifter bores on the R1 are pretty tall, the oil bands may uncover on an oem block though.
 
justinp61 said:
Mine oil through the shafts too. The lifter bores on the R1 are pretty tall, the oil bands may uncover on an oem block though.
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If you go back and view the photos of my block, and look closely, you can see that the bushings added have a taller height than stock.
I cannot even get the lifters in or out of the bores with the heads on because they are much taller.
 
Duane said:
Are you sure you did not miss a oil galley plug. I missed the one below the distributor on the drivers side once.
You know you can drive anything on the street these days and call it a street car, but that is almost the same build I have for a strip only bracket car, same heads,same rockers(they are beauties),eagle "H"
Rods. Pretty serious motor. I have not seen a set of the lifters that you have, but my guess is the cutaway(oil band) in the lifter body combined with the lift of the cam is partially uncovering the huge oil supply hole that small blocks have.
The comp cam lifter should fix it,because it does not have an oil band. That is assuming your lifter bores are in good shape.
Just make sure you inspect the lifters routinely for wear.
If there is such a thing as a drop in roller for a small Mopar the 828 is it.
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I am going to check the plug also. When I take the distributor out.
 
Duane said:
If you go back and view the photos of my block, and look closely, you can see that the bushings added have a taller height than stock.
I cannot even get the lifters in or out of the bores with the heads on because they are much taller.
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The Comp retrofit hyd rollers are also long enough that you must remove the heads to install them, even in a factory stock lifter bore.
 
512Stroker said:
The Comp retrofit hyd rollers are also long enough that you must remove the heads to install them, even in a factory stock lifter bore.
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Yes but in your case it is because the lifters are long, in my case it is because the bushings are tall. Not enough room to swing the lifter into position. Either deal is a pain though lol.
 
Tubing the block is for the LA small blocks. If I remember right the tube is 5/8s diameter, goes in the passenger side. U have to drill the block to accept the tube. U have to peen the tube with a lifter that u grind part of off to pound thru the lifter bore. Kim
 
oldkimmer said:
Tubing the block is for the LA small blocks. If I remember right the tube is 5/8s diameter, goes in the passenger side. U have to drill the block to accept the tube. U have to peen the tube with a lifter that u grind part of off to pound thru the lifter bore. Kim
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The reason I asked was, I saw a lifter bore tube kit on ebay, that came with a bullet shaped peening tool to be driven down in the lifter bore to make room for the lifter. ''I assume. " ????
 
famous bob said:
The reason I asked was, I saw a lifter bore tube kit on ebay, that came with a bullet shaped peening tool to be driven down in the lifter bore to make room for the lifter. ''I assume. " ????
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Yes Mopar performance sold that kit for many years.
They used to describe how to install it in the engine book.
 
This the "book" you are referring to Duane...is this it?

43435095290_dba1a8788e_o.jpg
s-l640 by Alexl5280, on Flickr
 
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Duane said:
Yes it is. Very good book imho. I adopted a cooling system mod from that book as well. Feeding coolant into the center frost plugs.
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Ok, I'm going to have to read that book and see what the author is saying.

Don't know about the cooling mods, as I've posted what I've done on those before and the majority of them don't do anything except make you feel better. And that isn't always a bad thing. I do lots of things I can't prove and yet I still do them because they make me feel better.

I guess I have to buy the book first though lol.
 
Alex5280 said:
I just bought it on Amazon. $26 bucks
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Thanks. I'm going to violate my personal mandate I made with myself to not buy another book until after the local used book sale in January, but it's not like I haven't broken a "I'm on a book buying moratorium" before.

Damn Amazon makes it too easy.
 
Not only did I just order that book, I had 4 other books in my cart. I took 3 out and ordered 1 more.

Damn it's like ******.

No more books until February 2019. I'm living with that.
 
I'll be reading the book as well, you can bank on it. So you guys know: My engine is a 408 cu. in. MRL designed. Mike had said he had built many of them and they all perform awesome, I was in at that point. We talked about what kind of engine I wanted. I told him that I wanted it to be solid roller, run on pump gas, be respectable at the drag strip and at the same time be able to drive it on the street. Mike said it would be 11.1 to 1 compression about 525HP and be the same 525 ft pounds of torque. So I started buying the components from Mike and he shipped them to me. I had the block a 1978 360 standard bore that Ridge Reamers in Arvada, CO prepped 30 over for me. The aluminum heads have MRL's stage 3 port and polish done, 2.08 intake valves, 160 ex. valves. 1.6 Hughes rockers & shafts. The air gap intake was port matched. Lunati VooDoo solid roller cam, MRL Pro Plus lifters (Bam). Fitech EFI, 3" X pipe exhaust. So....For it to run so great and then **** the bed after less than an hour of run time was pretty darn upsetting. Not to mention the money that was wasted, all because of Oiling, that I was told I did not have to worry about it. If Mike had said "make sure you bush the lifter bores", I would have done so. He told me his lifters were "retro fit" and were drop in and no oil mods were needed. So on I went assembling this badass 408 with his words of wisdom. Well, he was wrong, the lifters lose oil pressure badly, and will burn up your shafts and rockers. I was freaking out as it was running with 20 psi of oil pressure, then disaster. Yes, I will be reading this book. Yes, I will be bushing the lifter bores, Yes, I will be doing some oiling mods. I WILL win, I just don't know when.

Here's my cam card, if you are interested.

31383162998_3287a25ccf_b.jpg
27901099011_dbcb590219_b by Alexl5280, on Flickr

44375699591_c55ebdfd8e_b.jpg
A0374BB7-1F9D-4870-AD83-54672CF3B8CB by Alexl5280, on Flickr
 
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Alex5280 said:
I'll be reading the book as well, you can bank on it. So you guys know: My engine is a 408 cu. in. MRL designed. Mike had said he had built many of them and they all perform awesome, I was in at that point. We talked about what kind of engine I wanted. I told him that I wanted it to be solid roller, run on pump gas, be respectable at the drag strip and at the same time be able to drive it on the street. Mike said it would be 11.1 to 1 compression about 525HP and be the same 525 ft pounds of torque. So I started buying the components from Mike and he shipped them to me. I had the block a 1978 360 standard bore that Ridge Reamers in Arvada, CO prepped 30 over for me. The aluminum heads have MRL's stage 3 port and polish done, 2.08 intake valves, 160 ex. valves. 1.6 Hughes rockers & shafts. The air gap intake was port matched. Lunati VoooDoo solid roller cam, MRL Pro Plus lifters (Bam). Fitech EFI, 3" X pipe exhaust. So....For it to run so great and then **** the bed after less than an hour of run time was pretty darn upsetting. Not to mention the money that was wasted, all because of Oiling, that I was told I did not have to worry about it. If Mike had said "make sure you bush the lifter bores", I would have done so. He told me his lifters were "retro fit" and were drop in and no oil mods were needed. So on I went assembling this badass 408 with his words of wisdom. Well, he was wrong, the lifters lose oil pressure badly, and will burn up your shafts and rockers. I was freaking out as it was running with 20 psi of oil pressure, then disaster. Yes, I will be reading this book. Yes, I will be bushing the lifter bores, Yes, I will be doing some oiling mods. I WILL win, I just don't know when.
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So sorry to hear your having problems I know the feeling, it's like being probed by an Alien.
When you say "20 psi" are you talk'n about hot or cold? idle speed or cruz'n speed?
 
I have the tubing kit if you need to use it. Just pay shipping . You will have to supply your own tube.
 
yellow rose said:
Ok, I'm going to have to read that book and see what the author is saying.

Don't know about the cooling mods, as I've posted what I've done on those before and the majority of them don't do anything except make you feel better. And that isn't always a bad thing. I do lots of things I can't prove and yet I still do them because they make me feel better.

I guess I have to buy the book first though lol.
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I did that center cooling mod on a hot 406 sbc I built, except I drilled and tapped the block right between the two center cylinders, and fed them off the sides of the water pump. That and drilling and tapping the back of the intake for extra cooling lines to a home made thermostat spacer , made a big/big diff. in keeping that engine cool.
 
Alex5280 said:
It never was above 20 psi, hot or cold. I'll fix this issue and all will be good. I'll be fine.
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Dude if your engine never made anymore than 20 psi you have more problems than just the lifter bores.
 
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