who is running MRL (BAM) Lifters without lifter bore sleeves

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oldkimmer said:
What u running for oil. Should be at least 15/40 or 20/50 with that clearances. Kim
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brad penn brake in oil then change to straight 30 with good wix filter
I was going to dump it and try the 20/50 but was told wise time and money that I have a bleed off issue in my motor. That why I am thinking lifters
 
I just talked to my buddy. He went from a solid body mechanisal lifter to a roller cam with an oil band and his oil pressure stayed the same. He said the band was so close at max lift that he opted to dyno it to make sure he didn’t have an oiling issue. By chance the band in urs isn’t coming up and out by a slim margin. Kim
 
It may be a case of the bores are worn too. Seems like there might be something else though - an HV pump with those clearances, even with a few "extra bleeds" should have plenty, especially with that oil choice. Have you tried just swapping the oil pump?
 
moper said:
It may be a case of the bores are worn too. Seems like there might be something else though - an HV pump with those clearances, even with a few "extra bleeds" should have plenty, especially with that oil choice. Have you tried just swapping the oil pump?
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I ran this motor before with a more stock build oil pressure good.
I thought about the pump
So I just went out and started the motor cold 45 at idle so up to 65 revving the motor, it will go higher (buts cold did not want to that) from before when it worms up it drops.
 
new motor 4 miles on it. I realized it on the road test. so yes
 
Any reason to not try a multiweight oil? Your straight weights oil are going to do just what you see, and the weight comparisons made by others here have not spec'd the weight of oil being used so that is not being factored in IMHO.

If you feel it is fully broken in, why not try a 5W40 or 15W50 synthetic? The synthetics have the common property of having much more stable viscosity over temperature change; they are more temp stable than the weight numbers indicate. They WILL tend to be thinner cold so oil pressure will likely be lower cold unless you use one of the heavier weights like the 15W50.

OH, I see Kimmer has commented on the weight.. same thought.
 
I had this issue many a moons ago on just a cam swap. Made me wonder a lot.
 
Have you tried pulling a valve cover and running it to see how much oil is getting to rockers ?
 
Boy did I get an eye-opener last year. I had a 360 engine on my stand with a nice Racer Brown solid lifter cam. My Son needing an engine asked if he could use it BUT he didn't want a solid lifter cam. Well I usually tube my lifter galley and I didn't do it on this block and the short block was already assembled. Having three different sets of roller lifters sitting here I pulled the cam and after trying a 650 lift roller needed to end up running a 610 lift roller the get the needed valve to piston. He had a set on roller lifters so we used them and when I tried priming it on the engine stand oil pressure was terrible. I quit using high volume oil pumps several years ago because of an issue but we pulled the pan and tried one, and pressure was still terrible. We pulled the intake and primed it again and you wouldn't believe the oil shooting out of the lifter bores. I had a new set of MRL lifters so we tried those and it was still TERRIBLE. I then tried a set of 828-16 lifters I had here and it was still bad. With limited time I pull the front of the engine apart and tapped the drivers side front lifter tube and blocked the oil of going to those 8 lifters with a set-screw. Pressure jumped up and the engine is now running low 10's without issues. I will NEVER build another solid or roller lifter engine again without tubing the lifter galley and blocking the other side.
 
Pittsburghracer, do you think it was the exposure of the oil bands, the tolerances in the lifter bores, or something else?
 
nm9stheham said:
Pittsburghracer, do you think it was the exposure of the oil bands, the tolerances in the lifter bores, or something else?
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I honestly think most of it was caused by the wheel. I never primed one like this and was shocked to see the wasted oil shooting out as my son ran the drill priming the engine as I slowly turned it over with a breaker bar. I wish I had video of it to post. My old 408 that ran for years and was in need of its fourth rebuild when it spun a bearing and broke a rod was tubed and had zero issues and I had a 650 roller cam in it. I ran 9.70’s with that block and will be putting in on a scrap pile. It was .030 over and served me well.
 
pittsburghracer said:
I honestly think most of it was caused by the wheel. I never primed one like this and was shocked to see the wasted oil shooting out as my son ran the drill priming the engine as I slowly turned it over with a breaker bar. I wish I had video of it to post. My old 408 that ran for years and was in need of its fourth rebuild when it spun a bearing and broke a rod was tubed and had zero issues and I had a 650 roller cam in it. I ran 9.70’s with that block and will be putting in on a scrap pile. It was .030 over and served me well.
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Yep. The loss at the lifters is horrible. In all reality they should be bushed but for 99% of the stuff out there, the tube works very well.
 
I don't see where it can be caused by the sbc sized wheel
we are checking to see if anyone makes a mopar wheel sized retrofit lifter- no luck so far
Comp has a .750 "sportsman Lifter" for sbc anyone ever seen one I've never seen/ put a .750 wheel in an .842 bore
Mopar can be 800-.820 area but we may be stuck with mass produced bodies ground oversize and good luck getting the oil bands it the right places
RIP faithful block- that's Rest in Pieces
 
oldkimmer said:
Mine idles at better than 80 cold with 15/40. Kim
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When I start mine, it goes to 85-90 , when hot about 20 idleing. Raise the rpm, the pressure goes up accordingly. My main and rod clearance is .002-.0025, running 20 w 50 "5qts"dyno and 2qts syn. mixed. As I CHANGE FILTERS OFTEN BECAUSE OF HAVING TO RUN THE SHORT ONES, I REPLACE W/ THE SYN. FU------ FAT FINGURES !
I have been thinking on replacing the oil pump too, running a hi vol. w/ shimmed spring, AND YES IT DID HELP !!
 
pittsburghracer said:
I honestly think most of it was caused by the wheel. I never primed one like this and was shocked to see the wasted oil shooting out as my son ran the drill priming the engine as I slowly turned it over with a breaker bar. I wish I had video of it to post.
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So oil out the top of the bores, or out the bottom past the wheel? Out of the tops would seem to be a matter of bore clearance ....???

I was just looking at this:
http://www.hughesengines.com/Upload/BAM_lifters/BAM.pdf
and see that the 2 designs have different oil restrictions to the roller area. Not sure if this would make any big change in the flow out past the roller.

yellow rose said:
Yep. The loss at the lifters is horrible. In all reality they should be bushed but for 99% of the stuff out there, the tube works very well.
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Is this more a matter of tightening up lifter to bore clearances? Just trying to get a clear picture here...
 
Bushing the lifter bores should be done after there straightened out. The bushing should be sized by the machinist and oil feed holes drilled into it. The tubbing of the lifter bores is a restriction designed to regulate the amount of oil to the lifters. Without the restriction, oil just pours out! Horrendously!

I have seen people drill oil feed holes that range from .030 to .070 of an inch. What is right? I do not know.
 
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