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I also have an oil mist separator between my PCV valve and the carburetor.

Well, the ME Wagner has 2 settings. Evac systems say not to use with mufflers, they don't like back pressure?

Well, wondering if 1000 lbs of belt tension stopped the squeal.

This is my thought, is your belt bottoming out on the floor of pulley? Look at the floor of the pulley, is it shiney? All of the floor or the edges? If it is, that's why it is squealing. Your belt should be above the or stand proud in the pulley. Friend of mine just had this same problem...

They probably had rope seals.

I was about to install the crank in my Hemi tonight and discovered that I have the wrong main bearings. I have read so many testimonials on the rear main seals that they start to contradict each other. I have a factory rear main seal and a Mancini rear main seal. No instructions with the...

15 x 8 -- 4 1/2" backset fit my a body. ????

I stuffed foam into mine, sand or glass bead still seems to find it's way in. I just mildly rapped the horn body upside down to dislodge it. Painted them and they work fine.

Had this problem about a month ago. Needle and seat stuck. Took carb apart and just blew it out. Car still acted funny. Think that I got a load E 15 or worse, I had just filled the car up. It seemed like something wasn't right and then the engine quit. Gas was boiling and dumping out...

Jeeze, that's what I thought.

All that I can say is that I haven't broken anything in 2 years. Have been through a freshen and rear main oil leaks, but the cam and everything seems fine. Never have found the tick, and no evidence shown when looking for possibilities.

Will come up with probably a steel button spacer. Don't chastise me, I took a Donovan gear drive off of it. They had this part covered. Thank you all for replying! Have enough info to move forward.

Ya know, didn't think of that. Will fill any void between the water pump housing when it goes on. Okay, may give that a try! Thanks Rob.

Haven't seen anything abnormal yet. Will keep an eye on it. If it does, then I can go solid. Seem like anything with a camshaft anymore is more bad news than good news.

Or, Robert Shaw thermostat. The large one is the 370. Yes, Flowkooler.

I too have a ticking noise, never have found it. Right now, I am treating the hydraulic roller as a solid. Bleed the lifters down and lashed at around. 010 cold. If the lifter bleeds off, it doesn't matter.

Metal, comp cams. Sorry, should have inserted this picture.

What's an acceptable way to shim the cam thrust button? I need to get rid of .045. Can I make a spacer out of aluminum on my little lathe and put it in between the cam and thrust bearing?

Mine hasn't moved, if it does, the pan hits the rack and pinion.

There is roughly 1/2" of movement in the motor mounts on the engine side.

Timing chain good? How long have you owned the car.

E body 340 Sixpack upper hose, '70.

Boy, you guys had me going! I thought, damn, I have 2 #2947's on running cars, and this one not on the running Hemi yet. So I checked it, sure enough, it does protrude out a bit. Well, the water pump shaft has a little bit of a recess around it. I put it on by hand, it fits perfectly...

I have the Hayden 2947 on my '72 318 with A/C.

Do you have a glovebox with a lock? They are also round. Yes, sounds like the ignition switch got changed out. You can get all of that for one key.

If you got the Flashpower housing, it has the correct length allen bolts. You say that you have cleaned out the bolt holes. For antifreeze to leak out when just refilling, it would have such a massive crack that it would be visible. Just took the housing off my Hemi water pump housing...

I too have his harness.

Aren't the filaments supposed to touch each other? When they don't, you replace them.

Yes

When my headlights were acting up, it was the dimmer. Local parts stores should still carry it, just replaced mine 2 years ago. Not saying that it can not be something else, inexpensive part and easy to replace.