Search results for query: *

Because those number are not right........ If you stuck all the regular bolt on's into the picture, the v8 would weigh a lot less.= aluminum intake, headers, water pump[early had iron] and even aluminum head's', but hey....whatever you say. slants have the aluminum intake, headers....and...

According to some of them /'rs.... they can everything you can do, better they can do anything better than you....LOL

weight too. weigh a slant against a sb v8, pan to manifolds.

My 1970, built in june of '70, 340 duster has 2.02 j heads stock......

Lets be clear... I am not bashing dan, his posts are very informative. I seem to have displaced that irritation. I am finding it unfair to the other informative posters when members only hand thanks and credit to 1 person and seemingly brush of all others. It just seems like suckery to...

I have seen that poster grill others harshly in other threads over the smallest things. The way he addressed me to begin with...'his style'... is the way I responded back. I am a very nice guy, easy to get along with and enjoy discussions where each person can respect the other and be clear...

heres the deal... You want as much initial timing as it will start with 'fully warmed up' Test drive trying different total/full advance setting till the best performance is achieved without detonation/ping find a way to have both, be it by welding up the slots in the distributor or a bushing...

If you simply asked me to explain and which part, that would of helped me better judge where you were coming from, my bad then. To me...you make it look 'to the unknowning user' like I was full of it. And honestly....there was not much more say about it, but run ported vacuum. Then...

Our posts cover everything that matters on this subject.

ditto loco, and ask for the taller/wider seats, that will give you more short turn to work with when blending the bowl after the seats.

can you say 'big cam' lol

manifold vacume is for a crummy running engine that has idle issues be it from a lumpy cam in where the tuner does not know how to modify the advance curve to maintain the high initial required to idle a big cam, or because the motor is mechanically failing/worn out. Chevy had there own ideas...

those are J heads, you are just missing the 5 at the end of that number=3418915 If they are faxtory 2.02 intakes, yes they are 340 heads.

the factory head gasket is around .019-.020 thick while the typical felpro is .039-.045 thick. So if you milled .040 and are now using a .039-.045 thick felpro head gasket, u gained around .020 of pre load. thats ok.

Good deal, that closes this post.

Maybe look into a valve job but 1st ..an electronic ignition with a dialed spark curve. And do you have the 170 or 225?

I used to get 21-23mph with a 268* cam,ported head,headered, 2 brl holley carb and 3.55 gears in a '71 swinger w/7 1/4 rear I ran it with 34* full mech advance & about 48* total @ cruise w/vac advance.

We all do it differently, as long as it works. I pour oil in the pump intake then turn it over to draw it in, then bolt it to the cap. When you go to fire it, it draws instantly, the way it would and does every time you start it up after the break in and for the rest of it's life span.

al gore is moron who plays upon peoples stupidity, and also profits from it, like most democrat/politicians. he is also a sex offender. great role model.

I just ground mine down during mock up [ the main stud under the oil pump] and I used the 12 point nut that is a lil smaller.

glad yer back. Looks good!

so all the caps stayed put, cool. Most line hone for studs. what was the main bearing part number you used? Standard main bearing hit the radiuses on my ohio crank and I ended up with .002 end play, so I lathed them to get .006

better is in the eye of the beholder. the early blocks around 1970 have been proven capable of a 4'' over bore. dont know if the later can do that. If using factory hyd roller lifters is in your plans, the 84-89'ish 318 is what you'd want. The pre '73 318 all have the lighter & dinkier...

Got it, I'll call you in the morning and we'll figure it all out.:thumrigh:

yes, and I have 2 new sets from comp, if the new cam is a solid.

exactly,lol so when the guy said it may have a bad lifter...he should have said cam. needle nose plier would find out.

seen it.

To remove them just burn them out and hacksaw the shell and tap out with a chisel or punch, tapping them in does not take that much, you dont have to bash the sht out of them.

I am still driving on those upper control arms and same poly bushings...8 yrs later People say what they will and it's cool cause everyone has an opinion, but when those same people watch me work and do my thing, they see how while out of the ordinary it may sometimes seem and even on the edge...