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This is actually a problem when putting the car on chasis dyno. With my shifter I can go to N very fast but I never dared try that. No need to ratchet thru ever gear, but still...

Should work now.

No my son has blond hair after his mother.

Took me 2 full days to build the trans to spec. Another 5 hours to install and when I almost announced job done and turned the key to start the car, I heard cracking noise. Instantly realized I forgot to tighten the bolts on the starter. Result was cracked housing. This meat unbolting drivers...

I did all the clearances and endplay parameters as Chris suggested. It wasn’t easy to make his tight tolerances happen but I did it. Turned out my transmission was in bad shape. Before pulling, my car only could do burnout in 1st gear, after switching to 2nd or 3rd wheels would stop This is...

So the parts arrived months ago, but there was no time to get things done. I also got rollerized rear support, but never took a photo. Here are some pictures of the goodies. I used kolene steels and alto frictions. I had plenty of these. Also rigid wide front band, billet steel anchor and strut...

I know.

Its all in around 3300 according to timing light. I never dynoed this one. Car will probably be on chasis dyno but I dont really know how to interpret the numbers with gear vendors on 727. What the impact of it is on the result. I go to the same place every time. When I tried low octane fuel...

Now its 1 blue and 1 lightest silver spring in the msd distributor, total 34 advance idle 18 deg advance (I made a custom bushing). I tried different mixes of advance and this one seems to be the best overall.

Here is how she runs. Overall car exceeds expectations power wise. I opened the rings a bit to be safe with some nitrous but this will wait…

Also we got a new carb to finish this up. Needed small jets change and accelerator pump tweak.

We didn’t give up and ordered a set of cometic mls gaskets, victor intake and decided to run 100 octane gas. The car is absolute animal. I spent some time tuning everything but it paid off very well.

Hi, I have a few updates about how this thing turned out. I tried running this with less total advance on standard pump gas and effect was not good as you can see below ;-) This was on 95 local which I believe is 91 American.

Wow for some reason I never got any notification about your response. Very cool story with 8.30s car in the 90s. Back then it took much more skill to do that! We are now totally spoiled with parts avilability. My new engine didnt happen yet and its all becasue of people asking me to build stuff...

Engine is done and in the car. I took some photos of the thing in my shed before installing. just waiting for new cluch to be able to start it up.

Small update: The block required a lot of work. Previous machine shop screwed up, one hole was sleeved and it ovalized hole next to it which required another sleeve. Both decks were canted forward and it also needed line hone. This was supposed to be machined block that was ready for assembly. I...

I’m not worried about weight, I’m using 7/16 .120 wall pushrods in my own engine. Heavy pushrod is a good thing. I don’t have pushrods for this yet as I don’t know the length I need yet, but I was planning on getting some hardened .080” wall 5/16 pushrods in this…

With hydraulic roller cam and lifters?

Block is now bare and at machine shop. It was machined before tear down and assembled. It sat with iron heads torqued down for a few years, no heat cycles. I will know this week if decks are flat or not and decide what to do. I kind of like to get my numbers where I want them... Some progress...

Pistons are .01” down the hole. I was targeting .045” piston to head distance so will take off .005”. Block was machined before. Frankly I’m debating with myself weather not to leave it as is. With 1008 head gasket it puts me at .049” piston to head distance which is not bad at all. Will be...

For sure less rotating weight is a good thing. I will get it when I order billet input shaft and hub. This should be last step for me, but I'm swapping these only when trans needs to get off the car ;-)

It also looks cool ;-) ;-)

I am doing all the stuff because my son is very often in the passengers seat. Want to minimize risk mostly because of him

Experience exchange is the best you can get. There are many fairy tales in what we do.

So aftermarket front drum can still explode? I was reading somewhere that factory drum explodes arouns 13000rpm and A&A billet steel gets deformed at over 30000 but does not explode... I have expired csr carbon fiber shield that I could put on if needed, should I after all these upgrades?

So how is longevity of aluminium drums? Do they get wear marks from steels inside? Whats your experience?

You should focus on stuff not exploding for your own safety, so billet front drum and low band apply vb would be mandatory I guess. The rest is really not must have if you are willing to look into the transmission more often.

Nice, do you know the specifics? What did they modify in the transmission exactly?

This season my car will see track 3 to 5 times tops only for some tuning sessions. I want this car to be effective on the street, thats my biggest goal given local reality. Tracks where I am have no prepped surface at all, just some rubber that cars left and thats it. Thats why no trans brake...

For now with 470ci input and output shafts should live even with some nitrous. I’m using controller with softened nitrous hit. With new 500ci bottom end ready I will have perfect opportunity to swap last weak points in the trans. This is around 1700$ more added to what is already on the list...