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The china gap intake will not work with the factory magnum ac serpentine set up.

Agree with everything you said for performance build. I also would run whatever I had ready to go. I must have missed that part in the original post. For a basic rering though if everything else is equal and you dont have another set of heads ready to run then there isnt any need to spend...

My two cents is as follows. 1. Why not use the 302 heads that came with the roller block. Much better choice for that stock engine than 360 heads especially with 2.02 valves. 2. Since you have it torn down now, I would just clean everything and replace the timing gear setup, rings, and...

Lots better cam choices out there. I would sell that RT cam and get something like the Hughes 208 @ 050 cam or a regrind from Oregon cams.

Careful Kimmer. Not long ago I got chastized from the peanut gallery for recommending using a screwdriver in similar fashion. Apparently using a stethoscope is now the only "proper" way to do it. :rolleyes:

Late to the party as usual, but in a stock 318 application I would run it. Unless you plan to get a high dollar billet set up. A cheap double row set is likely to have just as much slop after 10-15 k miles anyway.

I was able to make a B&M shifter cable work with the slap stick shifter in my challenger.

Splitting hairs picking between the cams mentioned. One nit pick is I would want to know why you need a split pattern cam on a magnum engine that has good exhaust flow already coupled with headers. Doubt you would notice any seat of the pants difference anyway though.

Early non lock up units have 2 pins, lock up RH have 3 pins and both have a similar rounded rectangular shaped plug. REs all have round 8 pin plug.

I tested in on a 518 retrofit and od didnt disengage until around 25mph. My 518 didnt have lock up converter so I dont know about that part. Either way i wouldnt recommend leaving them on that long. Basically my od was for hwy and was left off all the time for in town driving. I have thought...

Since you already mentioned it as an option you are considering, I would just run the stock set up. They will be fine with that cam. If the cam is a regrind it may require slightly longer pushrods.

Maybe I should have said it can work in a pinch if you dont happen to have a stethoscope on hand. That make you feel better?

Salvage yards told me earlier blocks would not work in my 2002 B1500 because of motor mount differences. I found a 97 model from a truck to build and it fit fine.

A long metal through hsndle screwdriver or pry bar can serve as a poor man's stethascope

Did you build it yourself? If so where did you buy your parts and what kit/parts did you use?

It is something they do at the female doctor's office.

Good to see you back friend. Hope you are doing well sir.

I took mine out the front on my 2002 B1500. Pulled the kegger for clearance and ran a short chain across to each head. It was tight but plenty doable. No need to screw around with taking the trans out doing it this way.

Stroker will certainly give a lot more torque. Powernation did an episode with a stroked 5.9 with the stock magnum heads and cam with an air gap, carb, and headers. It made 490 lb ft at 3000rpm, and 430 plus from 2k to 4k rpm. It is all about the intended purpose of the engine and the rpm...

So chrysler engineers didnt design a purpose built engine? Nonsense. Part of that design of the 413 RV engine is the cam with less than 200 @.050 duration. Another part is the small runners in the heads and small valve sizes. To say it has nothing to do with torque production is asinine...

Damn that is very sad news. I never had the pleasure of meeting him in person. But I always respected his willingness to share tech and try to help others. RIP PBR.

Yup you can see the bigger valve and a small chamber relief cut. As long as they sized the bowls coreectly for the bigger valve just run what you have. Probably arent going to hit 500hp, but will at least be within spitting distance of 450 with your stroker.

Watch the engine masters dyno about the Utawesome kegger stuff. Lots of money for little result.

Water pump impeller distance to the back of the timing cover can be off and cause flow issues and cavitation. Cant assume any parts now a days are good or assembled right. A pump with a round disc on the back of the impeller eliminates the problem. Also you mention fans pushing in the right...

Problem is the lifter bore machining is all over the place. You would be creating a wear pattern for one block then switching to a different one. Using your idea to run in the specific block that the cam and lifters will wind up in would be better.

They do. Just have to put them in the right places.

Here is the poop. Stock oem pistons are offset to one side for quiet operation. Minimal gains of a couple to five hp can be had by flipping them. For a street build, it isnt worth it to me taking a chance on cracking a piston on pressed pins to flip them. IIRC engine masters did the piston...

record the sound of the old starter on your phone and play it when you start your car with the newer style starter