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Commando compression is theoretically 10.5:1

I don't think so, but I don't boost anything. I just know what my car would do. I doubt your engine was as quick as mine with the 340 heads.

I'd like to see that block decked .001 at a time to see what is going on.

I've run so many combinations on a 273 from stock 2 barrel, to stock Commando, to 284 duration Offy intake and 600 Holley, to my favorite 273 with the 340 heads and a 71 340 TQ. My 64 was a 4 speed with gears from 2.76 to 4.10 and everything in between. I used to power shift at 6,500 rpm, and...

I have only used a beam torque wrench. I have seen good brand name clickers go out of calibration. I worked in a calibration lab, before getting my degree.

Are you using a clicker torque wrench? Having always used stock bolts and never had your problem using standard Felpro gaskets and info from "Perfacar", I'm thinking stock bolts are just fine. Your experience is very hard to get a handle on. Seems like you are doing everything right...

Pretty much like a small block.

" PS im still looking for a 3 speed wiper switch. " Do you have a part number or a picture? I probably have one. Wanted forum?

Pretty sure you mean 130 tooth flywheel.

383 torsion bars and front sway bar are thicker on "68" 383 Formula S Barracudas than 340 Formula S Barracudas. .89 diameter torsion bars and .94 front sway bar on my 68 Formula S automatic Barracuda.

I have 3 Formula S Fastback Barracudas. I've pulled the Numbers from the original rear springs. 1966 Formula S, 4 speed = 2403804 both sides 1967 Formula S, 4 speed = 2835024 both sides 1968 Formula S, Automatic = 2835056 both sides I also have MOPAR replacement springs for a 71 340...

Check the bore first, Magneflux the heads, then get back to us. Probably won't need much. The auto trans is also a keeper, 4.2 kick down lever. Just change the filter and fluid (you can also drain the torque converter), reseal, adjust the bands, and up the pressure.

on a 273?

The important thing is an approximate 3/4 thread engagement. @perfacar said at more that 85 ft lb of torque they were seeing block distortion. What bothers me is you were loosing torque. Maybe the ARP bolts are too long? I do know, when I ran 72 "J" 340 heads on my 273 years ago I torqued...

No

You will need a TQ adapter to run a TQ on a D4B or LD4B intake. There is not enough meat to just bore the intake for the TQ secondaries like a LD340.

There were large, 750+ cfm OEM AVS carbs, usually found on High Performance 440's.

Nice to know I might just as well cut a hole in them, thanks. I have been cutting the gaskets for the heat cross over anyway. How is your 273 coming along?

Welcome, any Dodge or Desoto Hemis?

Same size, cfm. Using Goviers white book.

Listed as a "69" 383 Auto trans.

I have never seen a felt pad behind the damper, on any original small block going back to 1964. 64 up engines did not use either tab or bolt with a hole. Later, mid 70's up, engines used the tab, while 340's and High Performance 360's came with the oil thru bolt and double roller timing sets...

You don't need both. One or the other, bolt or oiling tab. Or you can just drill a .040 hole in the thrust plate.

Those look like they are only 14 x 4.5 wheels. Not deep enough in the front. 14 x 5.5 wheels only came on High Performance A-Bodies through 1972.

Master lobes they grind cams with.

You have to be careful with them also. I have sent back a lot of early A stuff that was flat out wrong.

All I can tell you is that having tried that chart, then checking the lash more places, I found some of the lash were off. I check about every 15 to 30 degrees for 1440 degrees. Probably only a couple thousandths off, it all depends on how picky you are. I literally found some of those Direct...

See post #330. See if some one has some here.

Those are wrong for sure.

The right mounts make a difference. What do you have now?