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Pro-race makes a nice balancer.

Take the measurements in 4 corners .. use 1 rod piston combo for all measurements. Prolly not a bad idea to have the crank checked for stroke while the blocks in for machine.

Just understand the difference between neutral balance and weighted so you order the right last 2 components after balance.

200 is exactly what I paid for one on e-bay. It was ground 20/20. When my assy. went out for balance, they took metal out after they spun the bob weights. There out there.. jus gotta keep looking.

Get hold of a 340 forged steel crank .. on e-bay time and time again (internal balance deal) .. get the rods, pistons, pins, bearings, rings, locks for the full floater pistons.. drop off at machine shop for internal balance.

Oil pressure and crankcase pressure are 2 different animals. A sticking relief/ by-pass could cause high pressure. Cylinder blow-by (ring seal) can cause excessive crank case pressure, especially when the engine is under load (full cylinder pressure).

That decal is only showing you the order in which to adjust each valve. Not the recommended lash setting (clearance).

As stated above.. compression/ leak down test .. if this is an "interference engine" .. the piston may have tagged a valve. (bent stem .. valve hanging open)

Compression is King! - Like others have stated - depends on the combo. Put some compression in that motor with a healthy cam, and the 2.02's and it will run!

Well hopefully the drive key on the bottom of the distributor shaft is not damaged. Remove the plugs so you can roll the engine by hand, put #1 piston at TDC on the compression stroke, both intake and exhaust valves will be closed, your index mark on the balancer should be at or close to 0 on...

Just puttin this out there... recently had my 340 rotating assembly internally balanced, .030 over ... bob weight 2086. L2316 Battle Ships Forged steel crank 20/20 Speed pro 5/64 ring pak (Moly rings file fit) Scat pro-comp rods 7/16" cap screws Full groove Clevite 77 mains, 77 rod...

Yes. www.pro-race.com

Going on 3 years with a Pro-race balancer I have on another car. There will be one on the 340 I'm putting together for my Challenger right now.

X-2 on the VR-1 Racing oil! - It has the ZDDP that flat tappet cams need to survive. I know people that run it with high nose pressure solid cams with no issues.

Yup... I'm glad I'll never have to line my junk up against yer junk at the track. :bootysha:

Balancers "should be" Interference Fit. (The use of an installer is required) -For a properly fitted balancer.

Prolly was realoldspower.com ... bunch of jak offs.

Those Tool Room springs are the best money can buy. Hughes engines sells a spring removal tool for heads that are installed. A little dough, Better than having a spring flying off and hitting you in the grille.

http://www.realoldspower.com/phpBB2/viewtopic.php?t=66405

How did the index check out? - Was it right on the money? Should be ok for a low RPM street car. Looks good.

I would not heat that Balancer. Use a "Balancer Installer" instead. Have you seen the episode of "Pinks" where the mustang comes out of the burn out box, and the outer ring of the balancer came flying out from under the car? Good reason to spend more in some areas than others IMO. Good...

I run a CSR electric pump on my street strip 362ci Olds. 3 years no problems. Nice quality electric pump from my experience.

Did you degree the cam? - The one I looked at was the "CAT".. just would like to know how close the crank gear is index checked out. On another note.. I have also spent big bucks on "not so install friendly parts".. yes, required modification to fit. (Non-Mopar) They say their drive...

Anybody run one? Any block mods required? I see theres one on evilbay for $110, prolly a POS? - TIA

I like the Pro-Comp rods I purchased from them. Crank is definately worth looking at IMO. Like anything, just check it out throughly before assembly.

Thanks' for the replies all. - Will be ordering one shortly!

I would talk with Kevin over at Hughes Engines. -

Anybody run the M301? How do they compare to the Milidon or Moroso street-strip type pans? Have read, - not the most pretty to look at (welds/paint) .. but have more features than the other pans, baffleing ect. - I'd rather have a pan with better oil control vs. looks my-self. They offer...

Hey guys, - they (Mopar) say the Viscous clutch set-up is worth "up-to" 15Hp, over a fixed flex. Concept works on paper. Looks like real cheap Hp in my book. Anyone done the swap, and noticed any gains?