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hope that right rear brake line isn't part of the finished plan!!

that sure is sweet! is it still flathead 6?

that POR 15 is some great stuff, you can put it on, and within an hour its just as shinny as a commercial paint job with no brush marks, let it dry for 12 hours though!

a guy has done the same with a dodge mirada, its quite nice! https://www.facebook.com/pages/SRT-8-Dodge-Mirada/183925705026531?fref=ts

so that means your going to rip apart an original pace truck to shove a sinky rattley old diesel engine in it? diesel's belong in 1/2 tons, if thats the case I guess I will unsubscribe from this thread

personally I don't think legendary is going to care very much; most people who restore a 48 year old car are extremely happy that they can even buy carpet or any parts let alone it being completely factory correct down to the original stitching I would be damn happy if that arrived at my doorstep!

I pick up cars all the time to buy and resell; my newest purchase is a 2005 sx 2.0 (neon) for $400 with 114,000 Km on it (about 80,000 miles) didn't need much and it works really good

x2 and the brake drum doesn't come off of the wheel hub normally the studs hold it together

2wd's are easy; change the rotors in the front; and in the rear change the axles and brake drums or have your drums drilled for 5 bolt pattern til there worn out then replace them with 5 bolt ones

nice dakota heres mine; from el paso texas short wheelbase regular cab

nice car; might try resizing your pictures its hard to load on a slow connection and the thread ends up with a bar at the bottom to scroll to see the whole picture otherwise I like your build!

some cars are only worthy of a DIY backyard job since they will never be worth what a good paint job is worth most shops start at $2,000 and won't touch anything that someone else tried first

its all mopar, everyone who owns an abody probably wouldn't mind having an E body

all mopars use a brown auxiliary wire from the starter relay that provides power when cranking the factory ballast resistor wire should have what your looking for

personally I would likely start a topic on it seperate from this thread and find out what other people did, I think you can run v belts but for what ever reason my pump doesn't have enough to supply the power steering and the hydroboost, when you push your foot hard on the brake the pump slows...

the dodge pumps off a late 70's truck don't run enough pressure? just wondering because I have had one heck of a time with v belts and hydroboost

why would you paint the engine with new spark plugs in it? do you realize paint is in a sense like crazy glue? once it gets hot and cold 50-100 times it will be nearly impossible to get them out!

you may try switching a couple of your passenger side plug wires with the drivers side (unless there numbered) as they look kinda tight, vacuum advance looks about right to get it started, you will still have to put a timing light on it after you get it started to get it timed perfectly, follow...

well I can tell you this, he isn't going to be getting a correct look from the starter being glass beaded unless he does some serious cleaning with emery cloth or 1500 wet sand paper

as far as that starter goes I don't think I would follow dan's advice, sure he is very very knowledgable but IMO what it really comes down to is looks, I would paint the starter motor housing and leave the aluminum part as is or slightly polish it to take the glass bead look out then clear...

wow thats a neat looking battery, but my question is, is it any good to start it with?

my car has factory powersteering, I used a powersteering pump from a 1979 dodge 1/2 ton. I made the lines myself as I couldn't afford nice braided ones. pressure goes from the pump to the hydroboost and then to the box. the return comes from the hydroboost and T's into the return line just...

I put my hydroboost on the same way you have yours as it wouldn't fit the other way. I made the mistake of using a factory pump and its very hard on belts (used 2 last summer). did you have it in your old car? are you going to use a engine driven powersteering pump to power it or an electric...

the next question is why did you cover over the wiper motor spot? doesn't rain where you come from?:oops::D

man that car was rotten, and I live on the east coast of canada I know rotten when I see it, you have mad fabercation skills and are doing better then I would

looks like you have your work cut out, but I'm sure you already knew that from the last one you built

I wouldn't release the car to any insurance company, they can come do an assessment of the damage in your yard without the car so much as turning a wheel

holy crap at first that makes me wanna:violent1: then :pukel: and maybe :crybaby: I hope you get it all sorted out, if the insurance company offers a payoff you have two choices: keep the car and take abit less; or surrender the car and take abit more money. personally I would choose number one...

needs a cummins engine, then it would work good

I bought a 360 engine from a 1979 winnebago, seems the plugs are the larger diameter theads (forget the size) but there not the usual diameter