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try moparts, i think they make them

any 67 and newer front end (complete every nut and bolt) will fit any 67 and new A body

Hood to cowl Doors to body Fenders to hood and doors Again doors to body and fenders The hood has one place it can be right, and that references the cowl. The doors can fit perfect to the body but have a big gap to the fender, but with the fender fit to the hood and grill you have to split the...

well you can spray a car, let it sit 24 hrs and color sand it. So in 24 hrs (in most cases) the paint has cured. After three weeks i would have it done and be happy, your getting close! In the end its up to the top installer as stated.

Glasstek is all we use

i dont think the dusters are round enough for the teardrop, what about the AFX scoop or maybe even the max wedge scoop?

right to each fender. I didn;t say adjust the hinges, i said push the hood to the side with the largest gap. Like grab it with both hands and push.

not true, its not uncommon for the hinges to be more to one side than the other, we are talking factory tolerances here. Something that can help is to open the hood, then push near the hinges towards the other fender. a couple shoves and it will move it over.

sometimes you have to elongate the holes but how is the support bracket sitting in reference to those two nuts at the top of the core support? you can loosen and move the top of the support over.

easiest thing to do is remove the "shocks" then you dont need the fillers!

yep

Yep hood to cowl gap, then fenders. Also dont forget these are not new cars with cm gaps... expect a 1/4" gap at the back of the door and to the fender

Dont think so BUT the later mopars, 80's stuff, had a latch that bolts on

yea ive tried all that, even bought more bushings, nothing is worn or bushing issues. The old ones just fell out one day as they turned to little peices lol. Ive seated them only to have them come apart after a couple of uses

i replaced all those stupid )(#@% bushings nad they still just pop apart. Im going to steal the metal linkage style from my 68 for my daily. I think they are a safety hazard and should be replaced with the older style.

i glassed over the notch part... yea your going to have to find a notch...

Amd

2x... glasstek is the only way to go

the tang just keeps it from rattling. most of these clips have 1/4-20 or 10-32 studs. i would find a set that does and install will be easier

is that stud threaded or smooth? kinda hard to tell from the pic. Also we had to make the holes when we did a full 1/4 panel on a 70 charger. Easiest thing to do is just like you did, make a line and measure up, then drill the holes.

I was going to make my own for my 73 swinger, it just curves under to much and limits some things. I don't know if i'll ever do it but would be fun

oh this isn't what i thought it was...

exactly... the dak frames are perfect for the 40's body style but i dont know about the 50's trucks...

they put ships into a bottle dont they?

these are the soft blocs, the hard blocks are solid black and the same thickness. Soft bloc http://www.tcpglobal.com/AutoBodyDepot/ItemDetail.aspx?ItemNo=STE+35300&gclid=CK21yarp4LsCFUzZQgodlh8AEg squeegee...

go 4 coats of clear. use a hardbloc (i'll find a link in a bit) with 1000 grit wet paper till you just cut the orange peel off, how ever many passes it took do that again. One pass is say from the top of the fender to the body line, should be about 5 strokes, or one pass. usually 10 passes...

only thing to add is DONT USE THE ZINC ONES... even with direct fans i still got sick from it. i will only use the SEM Copper weld thru now, its not cheap but has the most "normal" welding properties, and what i mean by that is the least splatter, almost like its not even there.

the M code cuda we restored was in a flood to the bottom of the dash, everything had to be replaced from the bottom of the A pillars except the firewall. Front clip Rockers Front Floor Axle hump floor Trunk floor and Xtensions 1/4's...

nope... his gaps will tell him everything... no two cars are close enough to trust...

also dont gap for 1/8"! these cars were usually closer to 1/4" so keep that in mind.