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Thanks fellas! Much appreciated. I'll take a look at the wiring. Be well, Pat

Hey Folks, The Duster's been like this since I bought it in 2011. Finally got the other priorities fixed, so gonna dig into this issue next. Issue: Car cranks with key in Start position, but will only start if I ease the key back to the Run position. Fires right up everything, so wasn't a...

In addition to the aforementioned suggestions, also check the bulk head connections. Same thing happened to me once, fiddle with bulkhead an fired up. Just a thought.

This is what I had to do.

Connect wires before bolting her up

Very cool man. Thanks for sharing. Any idea on how many watts it's putting out? Pat

How did you get pictures of the wiring in my Duster? :rolleyes:

Don't know much about that tach, other than the fact it is friggin cool! Pat

Two "Aleve" tablets before bed. ;)

Good solid ground? Pat

Had a similar scenario on the Duster. Traced it back to some funky bulkhead connections. I wiggled them and it would start... Pat

Bulkhead connections can be a pain. I had intermittent no start issues on my Duster that I ultimately trace back to the bulkhead connector.

Another satisfied Blaster2 user here. Pat

I use insulator boots on #5 & #7 with no issues at all. Just a thought. You can kinda see them here. Pat

Yes, it can be a pain. Us use wobble head extensions to get to mine. Take you're time. Pat

Yep, I loosen the driver's side header and swing the idler arm out of the way. Still need to fiddle, wiggle and finesse the starter out, but it will come out.

Yep...that's how I started a 73 Mustang I drove way back when...at least until I blew a rod through the block :-O

Forgot to mention that after removing the header bolts, I used a bungie cord to hold the header forward and away from the starter while loosening the starter bolts. A few F-bombs seemed to help persuade the starter to come out eventually. :cheers: Pat

I pulled out the bolts and disconnected the header (also hookers) from the exhaust. Gave me enough wiggle room to get the starter bolts loose and finagle the starter (big old oem in my case) out. I already had the center link out. It's a very tight squeeze , but doable.

Glad to hear you're back in business! Pat

Some obvious stuff to maybe start with...All have hit me over the years: Bulk Head Connectors tight? Bad Coil/Coil wire? Is it getting spark? Is she getting fuel? Bad fuel Pump? Just a thought... Hope you get her sorted out quickly. Pat

Really happy to see you got it sorted out A340! Good job. Pat

LMAO! Mine too!

LOL..Thanks for the chuckle Bad Sport. :D Pat

The brake switch is located on the brake pedal arm underneath the instrument panel. Pat

Not sure if it applies to your set up, but I lost my brake lights after changing my steering coupler. Turns out I inadvertently pulled one of the connectorts off the switch (attached to pedal linkage) when I dropped the column. Plugged in back in and was good to go. Good luck. Pat

67Dart273 beat me to the link. I needed to use the 8920 (picked it up from a FABO member here) on my 72 Duster, 340 w/MSD 6AL. piece of cake to wire up and works great. Using a 30 something year old old Sunpro tach for the time being. Pat

Maybe he works nights, i.e. sleeps during the day. Guessing the "four ways" refers to the hazard/flashers. Well, in any case we tried...

I had the same problem. Turns out one of the terminals pulled off the brake pedal switch when I dropped the steering column to replace my steering gearbox. Pluggedit back in and was good to go. Good luck w/the troubleshooting. Pat

Keep digging into brother...you'll get her squared away in no time. Pat