Search results for query: *

I've never heard anything negative about Royal Purple from anyone but an Amsoil dealer.... I've been using it for years in all kinds of high stress applications with zero problems.

I use the Royal Purple synthetic 75W-90. It already has the friction modifier in it. Further, and this is a big plus, the synthetic is WAY less stinky than the mineral based stuff and regular friction modifier. Regular stuff is gigantic raunchy dinosaur farts, synthetic is small, polite...

Well my guess was way off. Anyway, I threw mine on the scale and got 129 lbs with stock converter (I think the fluid has been drained). Much lighter than I would have supposed from moving them around in the past. I guess the Wheaties paid off this morning. The Wal-mart scale isn't exactly a...

I will try to throw my spare on a bathroom scale tonight. I'm guessing about 150 without converter, but that's just a guess.

The new ones are better off avoided. Mopar shipped a ton of units with bad heat treat on the side/spider gears. I got one, and it lasted all of 8 passes, after a cone unit had held the same car for two years. This is the reason these are very hard to find right now, and Mopar hasn't shipped...

Yeah, no shims. I cant wait so I'll go with the regular crush sleeve. Thanks for the help!

Hey: Anyone used one of these? I got one, its got no shims and no instructions... What are you supposed to do? Just give it hell till the pinion nut stops turning? Any help appreciated. Steve

Clutch sure grip definitely hooks harder too. You remove that pin when you upgrade to Moser axles (or other Green bearing axles). Now might be the time. LOL!

Tremec makes .59 OD gears also. They rock. You can run 4.11s and still be around 2200 on the highway with a 26" tire. Transmission stuff has gone up a lot, but that price seems pretty out of hand. I'm guessing they are making about a grand above retail on that transmission. IS that an SFI...

Oh god. Hadnt thought of that.

thanks! I did mark the bearing caps, but its actually going in a different 489 when I get it back together. I pulled the "pins" mentioned in that post out because I'm running Moser axles. Hopefully that's the right thing to pull out... I think I have the case halves oriented correctly (I...

I didn't make the case before I took it apart. Ooops. Some of the plates in the new stuff have the dish, but the disks are all flat. Fortunately (?) the diff blew up right away so the clutches and disks in it probably didn't need replaced. I just used the dished disks that were in there...

Man, any tips on getting the case back together? Wow! I'm used to the ford stuff where the case is one piece, you just have to "convince" a big spring to go through a small hole. I thought this would be easier, but I can't seem to get the bolts started.

That's funny, the diffy that blew wasn't assembled that way. What's even funnier is this replacement clutch set I got doesn't include the dished discs. Sheesh.

Hey All Got my replacement gears and was going to have a go at rebuilding this 8.75 sure grip unit. Anyone got instructions/torque specs? Thanks! Steve

I use the Ratech "reuseable" gaskets. They rock, though are not necessarily reuasable, at least not with synthetic fluid. They clean up lots quicker than silicone. Steve

I just run the royal purple. It has the additive already, and no stinky. I've run it with clutch and cone type to good effect. More money though. With a clutch type its not a terrible idea to run some figure eights in a parking lot (at low speed, duh) to get the stuff circulated better. Steve

I use royal purple 75W90.

I run a B&M stacked plate in mine. I put it forward of the radiator, mounted on a couple of the hardware store metal stock strips with regular holes (can't think of what theyre called). The thin stuff about like a metal yardstick, rather than the more structural thick stuff. Didn't even have...

You might have to get the rubber line off of Ebay. None of my local parts stores had one.

Street car.. 5 speed is the key. Overdrive lets you run a decent gear and still go down the highway. No question. I love my 904/manual/transbrake, but I long for Overdrive literally every time I drive the thing.

Probably people would be a little more agreeable if you had asked instead of stating it point blank. Come to think of it, a lot of things would be better if people approached it from that aspect.

wow. I just ordered my axles from Moser. Said I wanted some axles in stock spline for a 71 Dart. Didn't tell them I had B body brakes on it. Got em, popped em in. Done. Did have a little bit of a whine with a 4.11 cone center section that still had the thrust button but otherwise no issues...

And Durangos and some jeeps

All you need is axles and a housing. That's going to be cheaper than a 9" build, especially by the time you sell the E-body housing back out. Almost any 9" deal is going to have to be shortened and have the spring pads moved.

Good point. Mine is a Magnum. The weights are on the flexplate already. I'm running a 904. Thanks! Steve

The weights on this are on the flexplate, so it needs a neutral balance converter anyway.

Hey All: Anyone ever done this? Being told its a way to cheat into a slightly higher stall than stock. Just for a street car, so it doesn't need anything fancy. Thanks Steve

I didn't think Pro Products made a balancer with the correct imbalance for a Magnum? Otherwise it sounds correct.

Its this one: http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/PerformanceProducts/Products/Differentials/DetroitTruetrac/ I know a guy who ran a whole season with one in a 9 second NMRA Real Street stick car. One of those will hold up to more than I'll ever throw at anything. *whoops, need...